Vinsanto, the restaurant at the Vedema Resort, knows a thing or two about making an entrance. Housed in a former 19th century winery, it’s (hands down) a world away from anything else on the island. Situated in the tiny town of Megalohori, 15 minutes’ drive from Fira on the island of Santorini, the restaurant’s entrance appears to welcome you to a medieval city. Lit by torches embedded in fortress-like stone walls, you descend a series of levelled cement steps to solid wooden plank doors leading into the restaurant. Remember when Dorothy grasped the doorknocker to the entrance of Oz and sounded the loudest rap outside of Kansas? You won’t need to but you get the feeling … otherworldly! Once inside a massive iron chandelier hung with flowing red ribbons and suspended into the candlelit dining room makes a dramatic statement against red antique banquettes – think chic monastery, ready for a party.
Dionysus, the suave maitre’d named for the Greek god of wine, will seat you outside and lead you to another series of stone steps climbing to a cement rooftop overlooking the town square and set with a bar, lounging area and simple tables with Vedema’s signature chargers. Cool beige wicker seating throughout gives a sense of island summer and groovy stadium torcheres installed in clay jardinières provide diffused lighting perfectly moderated for optimum views of St. George’s blue domed church in the distance. It’s Greece, remember? Ambient sounds fill the night air and it’s as if you have stepped onto the set of a foreign film and are waiting for the star to arrive. Well, perhaps just relax and have dinner while you wait for her.
The menu offers 3 set options, simple and fresh with key island ingredients in each. Glasses of local Santorinian wine are offered naturally, a refreshing acidic white Assyrtiko called Nykteri (in Greek referencing the night harvesting of the grapes) and a red called Kameni (referring to the island’s famous volcano always within sight at all times). A striking amuse on a long narrow plate arrives to savor with the wine. It’s magical looking, a take on cocktails with 4 versions painstakingly created – a tiny skinned cherry tomato imbued with Bloody Mary, a gelee of dry martini perched on a cucumber wedge, a cosmopolitan gelee nestled with a kumquat and the last a pineapple mojito foam cradling a fresh pineapple, it’s miniscule mint leaf waving in the foam like a little flag. These are not of this world, of some fantasy island and such is the level of creativity that Vedema’s kitchen exhibits.
A second amuse follows (yes, two!) – a hot veloute of zucchini punctuated with droplets of ariani cream, a kind of Greek yogurt variation and served in a white tea cup. With these 2 dishes we are eagerly anticipating our appetizers, seasonal greens with a baked goat cheese dressed with sundried tomato vinaigrette and an island green bean salad with slabs of gruyere cheese. Both are nice healthy interpretations of Mediterranean cuisine which we are happy to devour. Main courses are in the realm of spa cuisine, a fresh steamed salmon served with a citrus & oil blend and a julienne of vegetables and lamb chops topped with a balsamic and vinsanto sauce and served with a pureed potato tartlet. Both remind us that Greeks eat healthy even in a temple of culinary art. A praline mousse and chocolate soufflé for dessert are of course washed down with a Boutari Vinsanto from the neighboring winery, the subtle hint of cinnamon lingering in our mouths.
The night beckons and a cool mist descends upon the town, wafting over the restaurant and the surrounding village. It’s as if the spirits have descended to sample some of Vinsanto’s magic and they should; this being Santorini and everyone is always in a perfect state of contentment.
Vinsanto
The Vedema Resort
Megalohori, Santorini, 84700
Greece
30 22860 81796
www.vedema.gr