Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario

Whether or not Niagara-on-the-Lake is the prettiest town in North America is up for debate, but if you ask Marian Markarian, trip advisor at Niagara Wine Tours International, you’ll get a resounding “Absolutely.”  With its stately homes, pristine lawns and manicured gardens, a Main Street to rival any quaint New England village and a sit back and relax atmosphere that’s hard to argue with, it’s the conduit for a visit to Niagara Falls and Ontario’s wine country. It’s also the home of the prestigious Shaw Theater Festival.  I was fortunate enough to be there at the perfect time of year to discover some of the cultural offerings in the province of Ontario, Canada, as well as nature at its’ finest, it being a sunny and warm June. I wisely made the choice to start at the Shaw, for me the main draw for my visit here, as summer was upon us and their season hit, Ragtime, had picked up considerable speed since its early April opening.  I had a mind to see the Falls for the first time, too, as well as tour the top drawer wineries and drink some delectable wines, including Icewine, the region’s stellar offering.

Shaw Festivals Ragtime-full-cast

There’s something about the month of June that makes coping with a weekend traffic jam out of Toronto en route to Niagara-on-the-Lake that much easier and (to borrow a line from another musical) when it’s “busting out all over” as it was all throughout the days I spent once I arrived in this idyllic area, there’s almost no tearing yourself away.  The sun shone high in the sky on those long days, perfect for bicycling verdant paths through the wineries, down winding country lanes in the picture perfect village, past historic Fort George and around glass-like Lake Ontario.  It also provided the fuel for those stunning rainbows over amazing Niagara Falls just a twenty minute drive by car from town.

The plan was to start with the Shaw and I admit I had mixed feelings about seeing Ragtime again, especially at a “festival” house. While the Shaw is way more than a seasonal venue for first-rate theater, I had already seen the Tony award winning musical version of E.L. Doctorow’s seminal novel (loosely based on the life of Scott Joplin) twice on Broadway, knew all the songs and intricacies of the plot and had been fortunate to catch a few major stars in several of the roles.  So, let’s just say that this venerable Canadian institution for the arts known for presenting provocative theater was really going to be put to the test.  I may be crazy for live theater but if you’ve sat through something twice and loved it, you know that the third time can easily end your love affair.

Shaw Festival Ragtime-Thom-Alison
Shaw Festival’s Production of “Ragtime” with Thom Alison

But little did I know that the Shaw had one-upped me in its choice of Thom Allison for the lead role of Coalhouse Walker, Jr.  I think it’s safe to say at this point that what makes the Shaw so special deserves some telling. Having established itself in 1961 as an alternative summer theater with an impressive repertory company and roster of plays by its namesake George Bernard Shaw, it is renowned for thinking out of the box.  Fast forward to the year 2000 when the theater expanded its mandate to include contemporary plays written about the period of Mr. Shaw’s life, then even one-upped itself in 2009 to include works by writers whose work (like Shaw’s) questioned the status quo.  It’s a theatrical enterprise that is continually evolving and that, my friends, brings us to the present day and the brilliant choice of Mr. Doctorow’s Ragtime, an epic commentary on life in the U.S. in the early 20th century during the great immigration, no doubt influenced by the Shaw’s talented artistic director, Jackie Maxwell. Jackie planned to re-tell the show’s poignant story of a black musician, his relationship with an American family and society at large during a tumultuous time (in her words) “with a fresh perspective, exploring a whole new set of resonances.” Mounting Ragtime is no walk in the park, from its monolithic set and intricate period costumes to a huge cast that at times is entirely on stage together to the use of an oversized prop in the form of a working Model T, a key element in the telling of the story of Henry Ford and the invention of the assembly line.

Shaw Festival Ragtime-full-cast

Emotion ran high as the crowd gathered inside the lobby of the splendid Festival Theater as well as outside on the impeccable grounds plotted with vivid summer annuals and sprays in full bloom. I read up a little on the building’s beautifully understated contemporary architecture while nervously sipping my martini and learned that the rose colored bricks and natural woods were chosen to harmonize with the bucolic setting.  I hoped the harmony would continue when the curtain rose, too, and wondered how the production would fare technically with the show’s famous “prop” as well as full-on fireworks.  I had an ace in my back pocket, however, just in case.

If there’s one good thing about a journalist’s gig, it’s that every now and again the deck is stacked in your favor. To insure that my third time seeing Ragtime would surpass both my first and second, I’d made a plea to the public relations director to let me interview one of the cast or the director afterward.  I wanted to hear how the powerful and great Ragtime had influenced them and whether change really is for the better, as the show’s driving theme struggles with.  I also wanted to draw a parallel between an all Canadian cast telling a story of American history. When she revealed shortly before curtain time that she had arranged a lunch with the star of the show the next day, I didn’t believe it.  The curtain rose on the familiar piano tinkling and plot set-up of the author’s words …“In 1902 father built a house at the crest of the Broadview Ave. hill in New Rochelle, New York” … with completely new costumes designed by Sue LePage, similar to the graphic black and white originals, but subtler. From the opening number until the final scene, I was riveted and really impressed with how the Shaw’s cast and crew nailed it. Later, I found myself asking questions about what makes someone rise out of complacency and change.

Next day seated across from Thom, his big eyes and infectious laugh mesmerizing me, he said that his character’s desire to evolve was ingrained in him. Maybe it was his creative genes that influenced him? Still impressed with how the whole production had gelled into a solid mass of fascinating theater, we talked casually about his role at the Shaw and the ins and outs of playing multiple roles in a season. It was an hour I won’t forget anytime soon.  Thom Allison was definitely one of the feathers in the Shaw’s cap this 2012 season which included 11 plays on 4 stages including productions at two historic stages in town, the Court House Theater (1840) and the Royal George Theater (1915) as well as at the Studio Theater where more challenging works outside the mandate are presented.

Niagara on the Lake-Street-Festival-Nighttime

The days that followed lulled me into a kind of relaxed state of mind (blame it on the wine I guess).  While I knew a little bit about Ontario’s “wine country” and just enough about ice wine to pique my curiosity, I hadn’t really processed the commercial relevance of the region and how the local wine has gained an important place in Ontario’s cultural landscape.  That these wines have an appellation of origin has become increasingly important to wine drinkers especially as Niagara-on-the-Lake is a place that combines climate, topography, geology and even local heritage.

Niagara on the LakeReif-Estate-Sign

All of the wineries I visited, particularly Reif Estates, Inniskillin and Peller Estates, interpret and elaborate the terroir similarly yet with subtle nuances unique to each.  While all of them produce excellent Icewine and are especially proud of the accomplishment, Inniskillin seems to have put its stamp on this category (especially in its notable sparkling version) where Reif has identified an emotional side of wine drinking with its Sensory Wine Bar, essentially a flight of specific vintages paired with chocolate, artisan cheese and charcuterie.  Skip lunch and have this instead.  Finally, Peller has chosen fine cuisine to buttress their expertise and their in-house restaurant, helmed by Chef Jason Parsons, is the ultimate dining experience (what gets better than practically sitting in the vineyards while tasting Chef Jason’s inspired dishes that marry perfectly with Peller’s wines). If you love wine, perhaps Ontario wine country is going to be your new altar.

Niagara on the Lake Icewine-PIcking

Then there is the atmosphere itself – a town whose history goes back a thousand years, where history is alive and the townsfolk are happy to fill in the blanks.  If not, another glass of wine will definitely get Marian on it!

www.ontariotravel.net

Wine Country Information – www.winecountryontario.ca

Visitor information – Niagara-on-the-Lake Chamber of Commerce, 905-468-1950

 

The area code for Niagara-on-the-Lake is 905.

Where to Stay:

Niagara’s Finest Inns – Because Niagara-on-the-Lake has stayed true to the splendor of its past but has evolved to become an international destination for luxury travel as well as a weekend indulgence, it’s necessary to install yourself right smack in the middle of all the action. Part and parcel to the experience is a stay at one of the acclaimed Bed & Breakfasts and Niagara’s Finest Inns has the best.  Following is their line-up.  www.niagarasfinest.com

Shaw Club Hotel & Spa – Chic, sleek and contemporary, The Shaw, located directly across the street from the Shaw Festival, is an updated take on the B&B concept, an urban oasis with an award winning restaurant on-site, an adjacent full service spa, a gym and stylish rooms that will make you happy you’re missing a four poster.  King-size feather-top beds, 320 count Egyptian cotton linens, walk-in spa showers and complimentary high-speed wireless internet complete the picture.  92 Picton Street, Niagara-on-the-Lake, 800-511-7070, www.shawclub.com

Lobby-at-Shaw-Club

Charles Inn – An impressive 1832 Georgian Estate Manor with only 12 guest rooms, each uniquely appointed with fine furnishings and many with fireplaces. Glass enclosed rain-head showers, jetted tubs and private verandas to enjoy the view of Lake Ontario. Exceptional service, exquisite dining and complimentary wireless internet, too.  209 Queen Street, Niagara-on-the-Lake,  905-468-4588; www.niagarasfinest.com

Harbour House –  With a style that looks as though it’s been plucked from a quaint seaside village, HH’s 31 guest rooms and suites feature king-size feather-top beds with 320 thread count linens, whirlpool baths, and complete entertainment centers with flat screen, DVD and MP3 players.  Their breakfast granola is yummy! 85 Melville Street, Niagara-on-the-Lake; 866-277-6677; www.niagarasfinest.com

 

Where to Eat:

Zee’s – Chef Jason Dobbie has created a unique menu featuring refined comfort food.  A stunning dining room and lounge along with the largest patio in NOTL make this the perfect place to relax with a glass of local wine on a warm summer day. Zee’s breakfast is a winner, too! 92 Picton St. Niagara-on-the-Lake; 905-468-5715; www.zees.ca

Niagara on the Lake Zees-Patio-and-Grill-Exterior

The Olde Angel Inn – Live music nightly until late.  Perhaps the only place to grab a burger and a craft brew after the show. 224 Regent Street, Niagara-on-the-Lake, 905-468-3411, www.angel-inn.com

Cork’s – A lovely wine bar with both indoor and alfresco seating, serving good food. 19 Queen Street, Niagara-on-the-Lake, 289-868-9527, www.corksniagara.com

Yianni’s Bistro – Authentic Greek taverna located on the main drag, serving classic dishes.  65 Queen Street, Niagara-on-the-Lake, 905-468-7877 (no web)

Bistro Six-One – Wood oven pizza. 61-63 Queen Street, Niagara-on-the-Lake, 905-468-2532, www.bistrosixone.com

Shaw Café & Wine Bar – A town landmark open year round and very popular.  92 Queen Street, Niagara-on-the-Lake, 905-468-4772, www.shawcafe.ca

Ristorante Giardino – Offering Italian cuisine in a beautiful setting at the Gate House Hotel. 142 Queen Street, Niagara-on-the-Lake, 905-468-3263, www.gatehouse-niagara.com

 

Where to Drink the Wines:

Reif Estate Winery – A touch of personal class lends an air of elitism to this extraordinary winery where you will be welcomed like a friend and want to spend the afternoon tasting their vintages. Don’t miss trying their Sensory Wine Bar Flight.  15608 Niagara Parkway, RR #1, Niagara-on-the-Lake, 905-468-7738, www.reifwinery.com

Niagara on the Lake Reif-Sensory-Bar

Inniskillin – This winery practically singlehandedly put Ice Wine on the map. It’s a beautiful setting to savor their artistry with both reds and whites as well as their incomparable sparkling ice wine. Don’t leave without a bottle packed away in your checked luggage.  1499 Line 3, Niagara-on-the-Lake, 905-468-2187, www.inniskillin.com

Peller Estates  – Peller is in a class by itself and in my mind comes closest to a Napa Valley winery experience.  Their elegant restaurant with alfresco seating practically in the vineyards is a romantic fantasy.  Chef Jason Parsons’ tasting menus epitomize the art of pairing wine with food and he is offering unique Chef’s Table Dinners in November and December where you are invited into his kitchen.  290 John St. East , RR #1, Niagara-on-the-Lake;  904-468-4678; www.peller.com

Niagara on the Lake Peller-Estates-Cellar-Table

Colaneri Estate Winery – Complimentary tastings are available to Shaw Club Hotel & Spa guests. 348 Concession 6, Niagara-on-the-Lake, 905-682-2100, www.colaneriwines.com

 

What to See & Do:

See a Show at the Shaw – The Festival showcases the work of contemporary “Shavians” as well as George Bernard Shaw and is one of North America’s finest cultural attractions.  10 Queens Parade, Niagara-on-the-Lake;  905-468-2172 & 800-511-SHAW; www.shawfest.com

Bicycle the Vineyards – The perfect terrain for biking.  You won’t have to worry about traffic either after downing a full bottle of wine yourself. Niagara Wine Tours International, 92 Picton Street, Niagara-on-the-Lake, 800-680-7006, www.niagaraworldwinetours.com

Helicopter Over the Falls – This is a very James Bond experience, thrilling and inspiring.  Niagara Helicopters Limited, 3731 Victoria Avenue, Niagara Falls, 800-281-8034 & 905-357-5672, www.niagarahelicopters.com

Niagara Falls Heli Horseshoe

Experience the Falls – Don’t cheap out on the total experience and don’t be deterred by the hordes of tourists.  There’s a reason why all those people have come.  This is a special moment in your life that you’ll never forget.  If you are trying to save time and can only sample one option, head for the Maid of the Mist to “explore the roar.” These boats cruise right up to the Falls and you’ll be soaked but happy.  Put cameras away or invest in one that’s waterproof.  www.maidofthemist.com

Niagara Falls Maid-of-the-Mist