Chapter and Verse: Edinburgh, Scotland

Edinburgh
Edinburgh
Photo by Stuart Caie

A William Wallace impersonator cuts a menacing figure on the cobbled streets of Edinburgh. His face painted blue and white – the colors of the Scottish flag – he wears a fur coat and wields a mock medieval weapon, while rhapsodising in a thick Scottish accent about freedom.   In case you’re not up to speed on Scottish history (or you’ve never watched Braveheart), William Wallace is a national hero. The landowner turned military strategist led successful battles to defend Scotland’s independence during the 13th century, before he was eventually captured and delivered to London to be hanged, drawn and quartered by King Edward I of England.

700 years later the issue of independence has resurfaced once again in Scotland. Next year the country will go to the polls to decide whether it wants to be part of the United Kingdom or not, a referendum that has been pushed through by Alex Salmond’s Scottish National Party. In another 700 years, will they be impersonating him on the streets of Edinburgh? Only time will tell.

Talk of independence has dominated conversations here in Edinburgh, that is, until the arrival of the Edinburgh Fringe Festival which was in town until August 26. This annual extravaganza is the world’s largest arts festival and attracts some of the biggest names in comedy, cabaret, theatre and music. For the better part of three weeks Edinburgh is transformed into a circus and this year was no different. To give you an idea of the scale of it, consider this; almost 2 million tickets were issued for 45,464 performances of 2,871 shows over the 25 day schedule. It’s epic. If you want to see the best shows and have the pick of accommodations you need to start planning now for next year’s event, seriously.

Fringe Festival
Fringe Festival
Photo by Martie Swart

A city of the literati, Edinburgh is a perfect location for the world’s biggest arts festival; this is, after all, the home of Irvine Welsh (Trainspotting), Ian Rankin (Inspector Rebus) and Robert Louis Stevenson, the author most famous for The Strange Case of Dr Jekyll and My Hyde. It was also home to the great Scottish poet, Hugh MacDiarmid, who described the city as a “mad God’s dream.” It’s easy to see how Edinburgh has helped inspire such nefarious plots and biblical descriptions, particularly when you get lost down its cobblestone streets and medieval alleys. Late at night these are the haunts of the brilliant ghost walkers, who spin yarns of varying accuracy to titillated tourists.

The Royal Mile
The Royal Mile
Photo by Alberto Garcia

Local raconteurs will also take you along the Royal Mile. This tenement lined street is the artery of the Old Town and leads up to the ramparts of  Edinburgh Castle, which commands panoramic views over the Scottish capital. It’s at the top of the Royal Mile that I come across the William Wallace impersonator, who acts out his passionate performance in spite of the rain. Tomorrow I will read a story in the papers about one of his competitors being arrested for firing replica guns as part of his routine – not exactly in the spirit of the Fringe Festival, which is renowned for comedy.

I conclude at the castle that rain enhances the Edinburgh aesthetic. I’ve spent many Christmas holidays here and it looks its best in the snow, but moody skies are the next best thing – somehow Edinburgh’s gothic cityscape just doesn’t sit right with blue skies and Mediterranean temperatures. But for reasons other than the rain, I’ve decided not to traipse around the castle today. I’ve been before and while it’s certainly one of the most spectacular citadels I’ve stepped foot in, there are other attractions vying for my attention.

Edinburgh City Chambers
Edinburgh City Chambers
Photo by Alfred Liu

One of them is The Real Mary King’s Close, which is underground and conveniently sheltered from the rain. But that’s not always been the case; this famous street was once a thriving residential area until the authorities built the Royal Exchange on top of it.

Vestiges of the original neighborhood remain; the ground floors of many houses and shops were left standing to provide foundations for the building above, which is now the Edinburgh City Chambers.

This ghost town in the bowels of Edinburgh gives you a beguiling insight into the history of the city. Its secrets are unlocked by theatrical tour guides, who act the parts of former residents; they paint a picture of gruesome crimes, torturous punishment and the Black Death, which visited Edinburgh in 1645 and decimated the population.

Another reason why I prefer Edinburgh in the rain is because it goes better with Scotch; you just can’t beat walking into a busy pub, taking off your wet jacket and warming up over a dram of Scotland’s finest. Sipping it outside in the sunshine just isn’t the same, so I’m not disappointed to emerge from Mary King’s Close into more rain.

The Kenilworth
The Kenilworth
Photo by Manuel Farnlacher

Traditional boozers abound in Edinburgh, but some of my favorites are scattered along Rose Street. One of them is The Kenilworth, which serves excellent cask ale, fine whiskey and has a food menu which includes Scotch eggs, haggis and line-caught cod with chips, all of which I would heartily recommend. However, it’s the pub itself that keeps drawing me back. Dating back to 1904, it takes its name from a novel by Sir Walter Scott (whose portrait hangs outside) and has one of the most resplendent interiors I have seen, with its hand-painted tiles, mahogany bar and intricate ceiling alcoves. Edinburgh is peppered with charming pubs like The Kenilworth and the best way of discovering your favorite is by staggering between as many as you can. Most have good culinary offerings too, which is surprising considering Scotland’s reputation for deep frying confectionary.

King Arthur's Seat
King Arthur’s Seat
Photo by Graham Van Der Wielen

With the rain still seizing I embark on a mission to climb Arthur’s Seat, a small hill in Holyrood Park on the outskirts of the city centre. Some claim this mount takes its name from the 5th century monarch, King Arthur, but all I know is that it offers some of the finest views of Edinburgh. The panorama is punctuated by Edinburgh Castle and the gothic spires of the Old Town, but Arthur’s Seat also offers glimpses of the New Town. Dubbed the “Athens of the north,” it is a masterpiece of neo-classic and Georgian architecture and together with the Old Town was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1995.

Perhaps history will be as kind to the Scottish Parliament Building, which sits awkwardly in the shadows of Arthur’s Seat. This contemporary and controversial building is where plans were hatched for Scottish independence, although to date the gregarious design and cost of the building has probably triggered more debate than the question of a referendum.

Scottish Parliament
Scottish Parliament
Photo by Bernt Rostad

As I sit atop Arthur’s Seat the rain starts again; the weather here really is like Jekyll and Hyde. It doesn’t matter, though. Before me is a city with more pubs than I could shake a Robert Louis Stevenson novel at and I’m off to find another one. I will order whiskey, eat a Scotch egg and finish my book. Then, regretfully, I will jump on a train and close the book on my trip to Edinburgh.

 

The city code for Edinburgh is 131.

Where to Stay:

The Scotsman – The former offices of the Scotsman Newspaper, this grandiose building is now home to a five star hotel of the same name. Built in 1905, it has a great location at the heart of the action. 20 North Bridge, Edinburgh; 44 131 556 5565;  www.thescotsmanhotel.co.uk

The Balmoral – An award winning hotel located on Princes Street, this is not only the height of luxury but also an ideal base from which to explore the Old and New Towns. 1 Princes Street, Edinburgh; 44 131 556 2414;  www.thebalmoralhotel.com

The Glasshouse – This five star boutique hotel near Edinburgh Playhouse won Most Stylish Hotel in the Scottish Style Awards recently. The contemporary design compliments the antiquity of the surrounding area, which is very central. 2 Greenside Place, Edinburgh;  44 131 525 8200; www.theetoncollection.co.uk

 

Where to Eat:

The Dogs – The Dogs wasted no time establishing itself as one of the finest eateries in Edinburgh. Using prime British produce, the chefs rustle up an ever-changing menu of sumptuous proportions. It’s competitively priced and the canine theme is a fun touch.  110 Hanover Street, Edinburgh; 44 131 220 1208; www.thedogsonline.co.uk

Khushi’s – This sublime restaurant introduced Edinburgh to Indian cuisine in 1947 and the people of the city have yet to tire of its magnificent dishes. There’s a great story behind the business and you can bring your own booze too. 10 Antiga Street, Edinburgh;  44 131 558 1947; www.khushis.com

Ondine – A stone’s throw from the Royal Mile, Ondine is lauded as the finest seafood restaurant in Edinburgh and remains a remarkable value for the money. This is thanks to head chef, Roy Brett, who claims that sustainability and accessibility is the cornerstone of his kitchen. 2 George IV Bridge, Edinburgh; 44 131 226 1888; www.ondinerestaurant.co.uk

Where to Drink:

Elephant House – The birthplace of Harry Potter – at least that’s what the proprietors say. And they have a reasonable stake to that claim because JK Rowling is said to have begun her writing career in this very café.  21 George IV Bridge, Edinburgh; 44 131 220 5355;  www.elephanthouse.biz

Theatre Royal Bar – Located next to Edinburgh’s Playhouse theatre, the panelled walls of this lavish watering hole are adorned with pictures of famous actors. Crystal chandeliers, open fires and the wooden bar add to the appeal, as does the delicious food.  25-27 Greenside Place, Edinburgh; 44 131 557 2142; www.theatreroyalbar.co.uk

The Kenilworth – One of the best looking pubs in Edinburgh, The Kenilworth has a glorious mahogany bar and the walls are covered in beautiful hand-painted tiles. The ales are looked after, the Scotch is plentiful and there’s a decent food menu with plenty of Scottish specialities.  152-154 Rose Street, Edinburgh; 44 131 226 1773;  www.nicholsonpubs.co.uk/thekenilworthrosestreetedinburgh

 

What to See and Do:

Edinburgh Castle – Looming large over the city, Scotland’s most popular attraction dominates the skyline and has been the scene of many battles with the English. This ancient fortification has helped shape the fate of Scotland and at 1 pm every day (except for Sundays) a canon is fired from the ramparts. Castlehill, Edinburgh; 44 131 225 9846;  www.edinburghcastle.gov.uk

The Real Mary King’s Close – Buried deep beneath the Royal Mile is a neighborhood frozen in time since the 17th century. Dark secrets abound along the dimly lit streets, but theatrical tours of Mary King’s Close help unlock the history of Edinburgh’s notorious neighborhood.  2 Warriston’s Close, Edinburgh; 44 845 070 6244; www.realmarykingsclose.com

Edinburgh Festivals – The Edinburgh Fringe Festival is the largest arts festival in the world and features the best in comedy, cabaret, music and dance. But there are many other festivals taking place in the city throughout the year; from literature to science there should be something to tickle your fancy.  www.edinburghfestivals.co.uk

Walking tours – Ghost walks abound in the city centre, but if you fancy something alternative get in touch with Tim Bell. He runs Trainspotting themed tours of Leith, taking tourists to the film locations for the movie adaptation of Irvine Walsh’s seminal novel. He’s also a fountain of knowledge about the author.  www.leithwalks.co.uk