Finnish Lapland
If someone had told me that a diehard sun worshipper like me would participate in a winter adventure trip to Finnish Lapland not once but twice, I would have told him he was out of his mind. But there’s a reason I returned a second time: I was amazed by Lapland. The snow was whiter than anything I’d ever seen. The sky was bluer than anything I’d ever seen; and the Northern Lights were simply unlike anything I’d ever seen. Close encounters with nature were about to seduce me.
If dressed properly, Lapland is an incredible destination that brings out the outdoor adventurer in you. Once I hit the ground above the Arctic Circle at the Ivalo and Rovaniemi airports, the daredevil in me came out, all right. In a part of Finland so far north that grayness overtakes the sky at an early hour and lasts and lasts in winter, nature becomes your best friend as you share a camaraderie with the strikingly cold outdoors and the warmth of the Lappish people.
With the adventures to be had, you’ll quickly find yourself bonding with these hardy souls who become your lifeline on the way to experiencing the frigid outdoors in ways you’d never anticipated. In Saariselkä, a Northern heartland for winter adventures, you’ll drive one of the country’s 200,000 reindeer before you zip across the frozen fells on a snowmobile to a chapel in the middle of nowhere, or take a break at a cozy kota to enjoy a warming glow-fried salmon where it’s de rigueur to slip and slide as you enter inside. Or perhaps you’ll embark on a day of snowshoeing, ice fishing, or an amazing dog sled safari. After the rush of crossing the snowy countryside with a powerful motor to push your snow scooter, controlling a team of huskies while standing up adds another high as the challenge becomes keeping the dogs from running after their “friends” and staying in line. They’re so cute but some definitely have a mind of their own.
South of Saariselkä and just touching the Arctic Circle are Rovaniemi, the provincial capital of Lapland, and Kemi, home to a different type of ski-doo adventure. Starting with a more participatory reindeer ride where your prowess earns a reindeer-driving license, you’ll then climb aboard snowscooters that hop over the frozen Gulf of Bothnia to the icebreaker Sampo for a “noisy” cruise that crunches through the icy gulf. After donning a bright red survival suit and hood that cover you to your nose and leave only an open sliver for your eyes (like the sperms in Woody Allen’s Sleeper), you gingerly lower yourself into the newly opened hole in the ice, splashing and rolling about like a frolicking dolphin. Rather than feeling like you’re freezing the sensation is one of coolness and a lot of fun capped with giggles at the red blobs all avoiding being splashed for fear of hypothermia. A steaming bowl of salmon stew awaits you back on board, a beautiful reward for your newfound bravery. Dog sledding here is less of the control-your-own-sled kind but more of a letting-the-dogs-just-pull-you kind you as you sit back hovered under a reindeer blanket indulging in a warming slog of vodka from your own kuksa (a traditional wooden cup).
Rovaniemi, staking its claim as Santa’s real home, doesn’t rest on its laurels but instead offers a mix of cultural kitsch and creativity. Santa Claus Village, a depot for all things Santa, turns out to be a kick for all ages. I found myself smiling ear to ear as I climbed aboard Santa’s knee, asking for a gift that I knew I’d never receive. I also picked up a postcard to mail home as proof that I had actually met the real Santa Claus, the one who lives with his elves above the Arctic Circle. If you need further proof, you can even buy one showing the layout of the streets which are in the form of reindeer antlers (no kidding) or visit Santa Park where Santa and Mrs. Claus reign supreme over their family of elves in an icy universe deep in the woods.
Finnish design ingenuity is the motivation behind the mostly below ground Arktikum Museum, a well curated collection of everything related to the people of Lapland and a unique insight into their way of life, culture and history. It’s here where you’ll get the lay of the land on the Finnish Sámi, the indigenous tribe and the Inuits of the Americas. The museum, an architectural sight in its own right, features detailed displays and dioramas that show off the dress, crafts and traditions of these people living in the North, not to mention a life-sized polar bear from the region. In Inari, the Sámi Museum SIIDA and the Lapland Nature Centre offer a second chance for learning about how to live in the extreme conditions of Northern Finland with photos, videos and original artifacts.
Visually colorful are the Sámi themselves, with their multi-hued, embroidered attire. On par with some of our own sub-cultures, the size of a woman’s brooch denotes her level of wealth and the spikes of a man’s hat indicate his marital status. While many of the Sámi are reindeer herders and fishermen, others are accomplished jewelers, using reindeer leather, wood, and semi-precious jewels to create earrings and pins. The Sámi are happy to share their home and their cuisine, with salmon and potatoes forming the basis of a hearty soul warming meal.
Cross-country skiing was invented in Finland, so they say, and it’s not unusual to see even the smallest of children sliding past you on the perfectly groomed trails that line the fells and slopes of Lapland. One of our favorite adult experiences, however, was the traditional ski boot dance lodge, where we gathered in our snowsuits and ski boots to dance the afternoon away and drink many many beers. Finnish culture is creative and adaptive, to say the least.
A must for anyone visiting any part of Finland is taking part in a sauna ritual. In winter, especially in Lapland, there is a thrill that comes from adding ice or snow to the sauna experience. We “took sauna” two ways: first, by sitting inside a multileveled 105-degree wooden sauna and dashing outside to roll around in the snow and repeating the sequence a minimum of two more times. But, more thrillingly, in Saariselkä at the dramatic Hotel Kakslauttanen, we dunked in water three times instead of snow, made a crazy bathing-suit-and-wool-sock-clad dash over the snow to clamber madly down a metal ladder and dip our heated bodies in a square of icy water before returning to the furnace-like blast of the traditional smoke sauna. Somehow the combination of sauna heat and beer is quite a motivator. As crazy as it sounds, the exhilaration was fantastic. And, in true Finnish fashion, we followed this experience with a lovely meal of fish, potatoes, and berries.
If you’ve ever wanted to sleep in a snow igloo or a geodesic glass domed igloo, Kakslauttanen igloo village is the resort destination of choice. With row upon row of glass domes, only lit at night under the star-filled sky, the sight is one you’ll not forget. However, it WAS easy to forget which one was yours, as each looks exactly alike and even the kick sledge contraptions that lay outdoors to help you move your belongings look alike. Staying in a glass abode presents other challenges, too, so it took a bit of getting used to. If you can imagine the manipulations for getting dressed and undressed or using the bathroom, you can guess at the fun we had. And, sleeping in a glass structure might be a problem for the natural insomniac as well as the adventurer, because why fall asleep when you can watch the Northern Lights from the warm comfort of your bed. Pretty incredible.
On other nights and at other hotels, we viewed the Northern Lights from the frigid outdoors, on these occasions wearing multiple layers and armed with a little Finnish vodka to keep our insides warm even though our hands, feet and face were freezing. We felt rewarded on these nights as the dancing curtains of lights created a thrilling presentation of greens, whites, and pale pinks. Again, me, the one who heads for the sun whenever possible, could not get enough of the freezing temperatures and never missed a chance to watch the unforgettable Northern Lights.
I returned with an interesting mix of gifts: lovely hats trimmed with rabbit’s fur, a fox boa, reindeer salami, cloudberry jam, and my most prized souvenir, a beautiful pair of Sámi earrings set with tiny white beads, a perfect representation of the white, winter wonderland of Lapland.
The international dialing code for Lapland is 358.
The area code for Lapland is 16.
Rovaniemi Tourist Info:
Maakuntakatu 29-31
358 (0)16 346 270
How to Get There:
Finnair
800-950-5000
Where to Stay:
Hotel Santa Claus – if you’re in the land of Santa, this should be your home away from home. Great breakfast buffet. Korkalonkatu 29, Rovaniemi, Finland; 358 (0)16 321 321; www.santashotels.fi
City Hotel – newly renovated in a chic boutique style with a sauna in every room. Pekankatu 9, Rovaniemi, Finland; 358 (0)16 330 0111; www.cityhotel.fi
Santa’s Hotel Tunturi – A haven for cross-country skiers with both daytime and nighttime options.
Lutontie 3, Saariselkä, Finland; 358 (0)16 681 501; www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g667560-
d480834-Reviews-Saariselka_Tunturi_Hotel-Saariselka_Lapland.html
Kakslauttanen Igloo Village and Hotel – This location has snow or glass igloos, wood cabins, and its own ice wedding chapel. Kiilopääntie 9, Saariselkä, Finland; 358 (0)16 667 100; www.kakslauttanen.fi
Hotel Inarin Kultahovi- One of the best for watching the Northern Lights, down by the river. Saarikoskentie 2, Inari, Finland; 358 (0)16 511 7100; www.hotelkultahovi.fi
Where to Eat & Drink:
Sky Ounasvaara – this Chaine de Rostisseurs- awarded panoramic restaurant is one of the best in Finland with spectacular scenery and international culinary delicacies not to be missed. Lapland Hotel Sky, Juhannuskalliontje 2, Rovaniemi, Finland; 358 (0)16 323 400; www.laplandhotels.com
Nili – a unique atmosphere whisks you away to the fells and wilderness. Here you can try Lapland specialties prepared from fresh Arctic ingredients like reindeer two ways. Valtakatu 20, Rovaniemi, Finland; 358 (0) 400 369 669; www.nili.f1
Xiang Long – when the urge for some won ton soup and an egg roll strikes, head here for great Chinese. Koskikatu 21, Rovaniemi, Finland; 358 (0)16 319 331
Coffee House – how long can you go without a double skim latte? Koskikatu Pedestrian Mall, Rovaniemi, Finland. www.coffeehouse.fi
What to See & Do:
River Rafting – these people know how to do adventure right. A full menu of summer and winter activities, fit for every level. Valtakatu 18, Rovaniemi, Finland; 358 (0)40 126 2900; www.safartica.com
Visit a Reindeer Farm – There’s nothing like having a reindeer eat out of your hand. Wildlife Safaris operates in the Ranua Wildlife Park where it organizes reindeer farm safaris, husky sledge driving and snowmobiling for individuals and groups. Rovaniementie 29, Ranua, Finland; 358 (0)16 355 1001; www.wildlifesafari.fi
Ranua Wildlife Park – Arctic animals in their natural habitat in all seasons. Rovaniementie 29, Ranua, Finland; 358 (0)16 355 1921; www.ranuawildlife.com
Arktikum – a museum and science center with interesting exhibitions focused on the nature and culture of the North providing an insight into the way of life in the region from prehistoric times into the future. Great gallery shop. Pohjoisranta 4, Rovaniemi, Finland; 358 (0)16 322 3260; www.arktikum.fi
Santa Village – pick up some finely crafted Christmas ornaments here and mail a postcard back from Santa’s main post office. 8 kilometers north of Rovaniemi, direction Ivalo along Hwy. #4; 358 (0)16 3562 096; www.santaclausvillage.info
Santapark – the only place in the world where you can undercrosss the Arctic Circle lies in Santa’s own home cavern, Santapark. Meet Santa himself and be sure to check out the Ice Gallery. 96930 Arctic Circle, Finland; 358 (0) 600 301 203; www.santapark.com
Skidoo experience, husky safaris, Sámi reindeer farm visit, and all other Northern Lapland-Saariselkä adventures. www.saariselka.fi
LuontoLoma Pro Safaris – experience the silence of the wilderness on a reindeer trek, an amazing way to view the nature of Lapland. Saariselantie 14, PL 30, Saariselkä, Finland; 358 (0)16 668 706; www.luontoloma.fi
Siida, Sámi Museum and Northern Lapland Nature Centre- located in Inari, the heard of the Sami area in Finland, the museum is a window on Sami culture and the diverse nature of Northern Lapland with both indoor and outdoor exhibits. Inarintie 46, Inari, Finland; 358 (0) 400-898 212; www.siida.fi
Icebreaker Cruise – A unique cruise experience on the Gulf of Bothnia, unlike anything you’ve ever experienced. Kemi Tourism Ltd. 358 (0)16 258 878; www.sampotours.com