Adventures in the Garden City
When most people think of Bangalore they imagine high-tech, computers and call centers. Indeed, in last year’s Booker Prize winner, White Tiger (by Aravind Adiga), the main protagonist claims “Everything in the city, it seemed, came down to one thing. Outsourcing.”
That’s a little harsh. While it’s true that Bangalore remains India’s Silicon Valley, a chaotic, sprawling city of eight million riddled with construction projects and choked with seemingly endless columns of traffic, it has plenty to enthrall even the most jaded computer programmer. Known as the modern face of India (with a dynamic, relatively liberal nightlife), the lush parks and trees that gave it the nickname “Garden City” in the 1920s are still there, and dig a little deeper you’ll discover old-fashioned silk shops, charming coffee houses, vibrant Hindu temples and labyrinthine markets selling everything from fragrant flowers to handmade iron tools. Though it might seem intimidating at first, the city is a relatively mellow introduction to India: shopkeepers and rickshaw drivers are generally honest, and foreigners draw far less attention (and hassle) than most other cities on the sub-continent. Walking the backstreets is by far the best way to absorb what the city has to offer, but sights are spread out and you’ll need some form of transport to see everything. Cheapest and most convenient to hail on the street are the auto-rickshaws or “tuk-tuks” which zip around the city for a couple of dollars (the meter starts at Rs14 or around 30 cents). Taxis offer an air-conditioned and less polluted option (tuk-tuks are not fully enclosed), but are more expensive and better organized via your hotel. Note that most shops and restaurants in Bangalore take credit cards.
The Old City
Bangalore (which has been formally known as Bengalaru since 2006), is the state capital of Karnataka and very much part of the culture of south India, so breakfast here means dosas, uttapams and fluffy rice idli, served with spicy sambar and zesty chutneys: coconut, tomato and mint. Get your early morning fix at the venerable Mavalli Tiffin Room (Lalbagh Rd), established in 1924 near the soothing walkways of Lalbagh Botanical Gardens. Lines often form at this fabulous vegetarian place, but you won’t have to wait long and you can always grab something from the take-out counter on the first floor.
From here it’s a short ride to the oldest part of Bangalore, a chaotic maelstrom of narrow streets that once surrounded the fort of the Mysore maharajas (now long gone). Modern Bangalore seems a world away from this: start at Chikpet Road with its genteel silk stores overflowing with shimmering saris, scarves and multi-hued cloth, and wander south to the City Market, on the corner of Mysore and Avenue roads. The streets here are jam-packed with people and traffic. Crowds of women draped in rainbow-colored saris jostle past leathery old fruit sellers and nonchalant long-horn water buffalo, which seem blissfully aloof from the madness all around. The market itself is housed in a giant, multi-level modern complex surrounded by stalls and throngs of eager shoppers. The flower section inside is the most appealing (and photogenic) area, piles of crimson, peach and honey-colored blossoms hand-picked and ready for the garlands so important at Hindu temples and ceremonies.
For a taster of this ancient religious heritage (and to escape the crowds), grab a tuk-tuk and head to the sixteenth-century Bull Temple (open to non-Hindus daily 7.30am-1.30pm & 2.30-8.30pm), 4km south in the Basavangudi district. Dedicated to the sacred bull known as Nandi, Lord Shiva’s mount, the main feature of the temple is the bulky granite bull sculpture in the center, 15ft high and 20ft long, and usually bathed in flowers. Not far from here, the Gavi Gangadhareshwara Temple (or “Cave Temple”) is unusual for being carved out of the rocks – you’ll have to stoop pretty low to negotiate the sloping roof of the main chamber.
From here you can head back to Lalbagh Gardens, where there are plenty of places to chill out and shelter from the noon-day sun, or press on to MG Road.
MG Road and beyond
Modern India begins in earnest at MG Road and its offshoot, Brigade Road, where Western brands mingle with sari stores and giant emporiums of traditional handicrafts. Though marred somewhat by ongoing construction of Bangalore’s metro system (a mammoth project due for completion in 2015), this is another spot to stroll at leisure, taking in the scents and sounds; pop in to the Bombay Store at the western end for some innovative T-shirts and gifts, and end up at Koshy’s (MG Rd and St Mark’s Rd), one of Bangalore’s gloriously old-fashioned coffee shops. Being south India, the local drink here is coffee not tea, and you can revive flagging energy with snacks like Bombay Toast, a sweet treat that resembles French toast. As elsewhere in the city, silk is a real bargain along MG Road and you’ll be able to pick up diaphanous scarves for a handful of dollars, or full scale suits and saris for a little more. The poshest place to shop is the four floors of Deepam Silk Emporium at no.67, where attentive assistants will guide you around immaculate, air-conditioned showrooms stocked with a mind-blowing selection of saris, shirts and shawls.
To get off the beaten track my pick would be the back streets of Halasuru district, at the eastern end of MG Road. You won’t see any tourists here, just earthy market stalls, tumbling heaps of coconuts and marble-like watermelons, roaming cows, and the workaday Someshwara Temple, replete with ornate, multicolored gopura (entrance tower). Dedicated to Shiva and numerous other Hindu deities, the temple sanctuary is a tranquil space just off Bazaar Street; remember to remove your shoes at the entrance! If you’re lucky, you’ll catch one of the many local festivals held in the streets around the temple, when locals come out in droves to pay their respects, drink milk and munch on Indian sweet treats.
Shiva Mandir
Bangalore has plenty of more conventional sights – museums, art galleries, a dusty aquarium and even a musical dancing fountain, a big hit with domestic tourists – but to be honest, these are not that exciting. If you have extra time, head east along the old Airport Road to one of the city’s monumental highlights, the temple complex known as the Shiva Mandir. The focus here is the enormous statue of Lord Shiva, a 65ft behemoth set onto a representation of Mount Kailash, his Himalayan home – it’s said to be the largest statue of Shiva in the world. Take a few minutes to soak up the meditative atmosphere in the main courtyard, and the 32ft statue of elephant god Ganesha nearby, which is also quite stunning (Ganesha is said to be the son of Shiva). On either side of the statue, reminders of modern India are close at hand; a series of kitschy dioramas of the 13 key lingams or representations of Shiva, and a line-up of market stalls selling all sorts of tacky souvenirs, CDs of religious music and boxes of pungent incense.
Country Code for India is (91)
Where to Stay:
Ajantha – Best of the plethora of budget hotels in the city, set on a shady courtyard just off central MG Rd. The single rooms are basic but comfy and particularly good value (the doubles are even bigger; all come with aging TVs and phones) and the in-house restaurant serves excellent south Indian food. 22A MG Road; (080) 2558 5858.
Ista Hotel – Fashionable boutique hotel at the eastern end of MG Road. Stylish rooms come with contemporary décor, flat-screen TVs and free fruit on demand – the real highlight is the breezy restaurant terrace, which features a tranquil pool and fabulous views across the city. Don’t miss the Sunday buffets. 1/1 Swami Vivekananda Rd, Ulsoor; (080) 2555 8888; www.istahotels.com
St Mark’s Hotel – Modern, super-comfortable rooms in the heart of the city, and one of Bangalore’s best-value hotels. Great service, but no pool. 4/1, St Marks Rd; (080) 4001 9000; www.stmarkshotel.com
Taj West End – Classic five-star dating back to 1887 (it was the first hotel in the city) and one of the big names in Indian luxury, surrounded by 20 acres of serene gardens in a central location. Splash out on one of the old wing rooms, which have wide verandas overlooking the gardens. Old Race Course Rd, Seshadripuram; (080) 6660 5660; www.tajhotels.com
What to Do:
The Beach Sup-cheap beer and cocktails with a student crowd at this bar and café’s popular happy hour (4-8pm on Thursday). Suitably prepared, join in the karaoke, or grab snacks at the restaurant. And yes, it’s decked out a bit like a beach bar, with coconuts and sand thrown in. 1211 100-Foot Road, Indiranagar; (080) 4126 1114.
Casa del Sol –Mediterranean restaurant with gut-busting all-you-can eat Sunday brunch, but also a fabulous place for a drink, thanks to its rooftop terrace, fancy cocktails and salsa nights. Third Floor, Devatha Plaza, 131 Residency Rd; (080) 4151 0101
Coconut Grove- One of the most enticing places in the city for excellent value south Indian food (especially from Kerala), with dishes served in traditional copper thalis on a shady veranda. Try any of the fish curries, washed down with fresh coconut juice. 86 Spencer Building, Church St; (080) 2559 6149.
Copper Chimney – This Mumbai-based chain is the best place to try north Indian and especially Punjabi food; creamy paneer tikka, tasty biryanis and spicy lamb curries. Attractive roof-top location. Fifth Floor, Bangalore Central Mall, MG Rd and Residency Rd; (080) 6511 1900
FBar and Kitchen – Newest club attracting the best local talent such as DJ Sasha Sambi (who spins a mix of electro and progressive house on Wed, Fri and Sat nights). Third Floor, 2 Manandi Plaza, St Mark’s Rd, (080) 4211 0186.
Koshy’s- Legendary old-fashioned café, with polite, uniformed waiters, pewter teapots and a menu that hasn’t changed for years. Come for a meal or just a coffee. St Mark’s Rd and MG R; (080) 2221 3795. www.koshys.com
Where to Shop:
Bombay Store – This Mumbai-based chain store is crammed with goodies, from Indian teas and herbs and crazy modern T-shirts, to traditional clothes, bed linens, and stationary. 99 MG Road; (080) 2532 0014. www.bombaystore.com
Cauvery Arts Emporium – The Karnataka state government runs this beguiling store of handicrafts, curios and gifts (like sandalwood boxes), and though the prices can be on the high side, it provides the perfect introduction to what the region has to offer. 45 MG Road; (080) 2559 7511.
FabIndia – Large selection of handmade cotton and silk Indian clothes (traditional and more contemporary designs). # 227, 2nd Floor, Garuda Mall, Magrath Road; (080) 3292 2335. www.fabindia.com
Gangaram’s – One of several decent bookstores in the city, with a great range of material on India, at cheap prices (imprints like Penguin are produced locally in India, at a fraction of the cost). 66 MG Rd.
PUB Building – Aging concrete mall, stuffed to the brim with discount silk stores and the odd handicraft shop – a good place to bargain hunt. MG Rd.
What to Do/Must See:
Shiva Mandir – PMA Gardens, Kemp Fort Terrace, 97 Old Airport Rd; 98 4500 0500. www.shivmandir.org
Bangalore Walks – Led by informative local guides, these walking tours are an illuminating introduction to the city. Tours tend to run 7-10am every Sat & Sun and cost Rs495 (around US$10). Themes include a “traditional”, “Victorian” and “Green Heritage”. 98806 71192; www.bangalorewalks.com