City of Hidden Giants
By Mike Flemming and Jaime Steele of Belfast Creative Agency
Say Belfast to most people English speaking or not, and perhaps an image of war-torn strife springs to mind. But say it to anyone who’s been to the city in the past few years and they’ll paint you a different picture, one of a cool vibe, friendly folk and plenty to see and do. Not to mention some of the world’s most stunning scenery just an hour’s drive in any direction. Far from being the angry old man of yesteryear, Belfast today is a craggy-faced hipster, at home being down with the kids as well as reminiscing about the rich and varied past with the folks.
It’s hard to write about the capital of Northern Ireland without mentioning its’ famous “troubles” and the important fact that it’s where the Titanic was built. We’ll touch on these themes later. What we wanted to do most was lift the lid on a few places to see, things to do and glorious restaurants and hotels that are a little off the beaten track. Call it an insider’s guide to seeing Belfast and the area in just a few days if you like.
Approach Belfast’s relatively compact city centre (home to just over 265,000 residents) from any angle and the first of our hidden giants looms into view. Dominating the city to the north is Cave Hill, a 1200 feet high basalt outcrop, which if it’s sunny and you squint your eyes a bit, is reminiscent of Cape Town’s table mountain. We can only assume that Jonathan Swift had such a squint when he imagined he saw the outline of a giant man lying atop the hill, inspiring him to write Gulliver’s Travels in the mid 1720’s. That story came to life again last year with Jack Black in the re-imagining of the famous tale. Take it from us however, you’ll not see Mr. Black’s silhouette up there no matter how many pints of Guinness you have during your stay. Climb to the top and you’ll be rewarded with a stunning view across the city and to Scotland beyond, so spectacular it inspired C.S. Lewis to write The Chronicles of Narnia. Go down the mountain and slightly north and you’ll discover the quirky charms of Belfast Zoo, one of the world’s premiere animal sanctuaries and breeders of endangered species. FUN TIP: before you go, visit their website, click on “Audio Gallery” to download some of Northern Ireland’s top celebrities taking on the character of the animals you’ll find. Put them on your iPod and then replay them outside the appropriate pens to hear exactly what the animals looking back at you are thinking.
Take some time now for a bit of relaxation after all that hill climbing and zoological shenanigans.
Grab a quick cab or bus back into the city centre and take your pick from any of the numerous bars to quench your thirst. Most of Belfast’s 700,000 annual visitors tend to head for the historic and beautiful Crown Liquor Saloon on Great Victoria Street, owned by the The National Trust and frequently voted ‘the most beautiful bar in the world’. However, may we suggest a worthy alternative and another of Belfast’s hidden giants? The Spaniard Bar on Skipper Street is a local favorite and always full of great craic. ‘Craic’ in case you’re wondering is a local term for fun, laughter and general happy banter not what it sounds like. Treat yourself to a glass of Midleton Very Rare Irish whiskey and a plate of the catch of the day, bought fresh from the local market and you’ll be set fair for an afternoon of sightseeing.
We suggest you continue your Belfast exploring by taking an affordable and comfortable taxi tour of the city with accredited Tourist Board guides who are a friendly and knowledgeable bunch. They can tell you everything there is to know about Belfast’s glorious and inglorious past. Don’t miss the murals in both the East and West ends of the city that take you on a rollercoaster journey from Oliver Cromwell’s conquest of the island in 1690 to the victory of King William of Orange at the Battle of the Boyne 41 years later to the famous terrorists of the 1970s and 80s right up to the current peace of today. Be sure they show you a particular mural depicting the tale of Culchulainn, who as a child gained his reputation by killing a local blacksmith’s fierce guard dog, then later defended Ulster single-handedly against the armies of Queen Medb of Connaught. This visual depiction of Irish folklore is contrasted neatly when you look into the distance to the tower block on the horizon. There you’ll see Divis, located in nationalist West Belfast where throughout the “troubles” of the 70’s and 80’s the British army occupied the two top floors, using them as an observation post. Soldiers were deposited and removed via helicopters landing on the roof. It was the only way for a relatively safe passage during the turbulence.
Your tour guide can also take you past the nearby Sirocco Works site where air conditioning was invented to a hidden bronze statue of C.S. Lewis climbing into a wardrobe near the historic Holywood Arches; past the Titanic paint hall where HBO creates many of their blockbusters. If you stop and look through the railings you may just catch sight of the current Game of Thrones cast as it is being filmed in the converted studio. Further down the docks you’ll come to the simply huge Titanic dock where the famous ship set sail on its fateful voyage.
Now that we’ve gotten the must sees out of the way we can’t forget to mention the hip places to go. First is the Cathedral Quarter, Belfast’s answer to Dublin’s Temple Bar or London’s Covent Garden. The sophisticated and chic of Belfast mix with students from the art college here, congregating near St. Anne’s Cathedral, the centerpiece of the quarter. The neighborhood has cutting-edge theatre, pubs, restaurants, music, and art galleries many situated in old warehouses that were once used for shipbuilding and linen manufacturing. Something that should be experienced is Oh Yeah, a performance space housed in a former whiskey warehouse in the heart of the Quarter, and an incubator for music in Belfast. Check out a live performance or sit in on a rehearsal session. The mission of the center is “Open Doors to Music Potential” and they aim to be accessible to everyone. They work to give local musicians their big break; currently the center has a call-out to these musicians to come up with a new song or instrumental for the next Northern Ireland Tourist Board campaign. We think the Cathedral Quarter is “craic-cool” and not to be missed.
Another neighborhood is the Gaeltact Quarter, which is the area around Falls Road in the western part of the city. Here the Irish language is widely spoken and the neighborhood promotes the local language and culture. Check the newspaper while you are in Belfast to see if there is a festival going on.
Housed in the magnificent City Hall in Donegall Square, that has an identical twin in Durban, South Africa, is the Bobbin Café and Exhibition space. The café got its name from the bobbins used in the linen industry which thrived in Belfast. Besides being a great spot to eat with delicious paninis and salads, there is a free exhibition space. The current exhibit (another Giant) is titled “Waking the Giant.” The theme is industry in Belfast from the 17th century to the present day celebrating the contribution of working people to the development of Belfast through the heavy industries of shipbuilding, engineering, rope manufacturing, linen and textiles, tobacco processing and glassmaking. There is a second exhibition by a local photographer as well.
Next, head past Ulster Hall on Bedford Street where Led Zepplin premiered ‘Stairway to Heaven; past the Newsletter offices, the oldest English Language newspaper in the world and finally round the corner to White’s Tavern, Northern Ireland’s oldest licensed pub, opened since 1630. If you fancy something a little more sophisticated, try The Merchant Hotel, home to the world’s Best Hotel Bar (voted two years in a row 2009 & 2010 by the prestigious ‘Spirit Awards’) and also its’ most expensive cocktail, their version of the Mai Tai, checking out at a whopping $1,000 U.S.
If you’re still on you’re feet and a bit peckish, forego the excellent Belfast fare and treat yourself to something quaint and different and with provenance. Grab a cab or take the train 12 miles down the coast to the excellent Salty Dog restaurant in Bangor, Belfast’s seaside resort.
Situated slap bang on the seafront with superb sea views, The Salty Dog is home to Michelin Star chef Derek Creagh. Derek came back to his native Northern Ireland from London, having trained and worked with the Fat Duck’s Heston Blumenthal. (If you haven’t heard of the Fat Duck, it is consistently voted among the top 3 restaurants in the world). Derek’s mantra is simple – use sustainable, locally grown produce to create the best flavors possible. And boy does Derek create great flavors. His specialty is ‘dulse butter’ (made by combining seaweed and butter) which is a taste explosion. Smear lumps of it on freshly baked warm wheaten bread and you can truly taste the sea. With a superb menu ranging from seared pigeon breast to traditional fish and chips, you can be sure that there will be something to please your palate. You’re probably thinking … Michelin Star chef, Michelin Star prices but you’ll be pleasantly surprised.
The Salty Dog also offers accommodation and has the cozy feel of a seafront boutique hotel. Rooms have large windows with panoramic views and with a pleasant stroll around the coast and the marina right at your front door, you’ll be hard pressed to find a better place to rest your head for the night. After a day of mountains, murals, elephants, Guinness, whiskey, C.S. Lewis and Titanic treasures, this might be as good a place as any to sit back and reflect on your day seeing Belfast’s hidden giants. And also to look forward to the following day when you’ll visit the amazing Ulster Folk and Transport Museum (sister to the famous Ulster Museum) on the way back from Bangor to see original jet fighter planes, steam trains and the famous DeLorean sports car as well as authentically recreated historic streets and cultures; one of the city’s best markets like the (3x a week) St. George’s or the monthly Fashion Souk.
If you have time head further north up to the real giant – Giant’s Causeway on Antrim’s spectacular north coast – where the awesomely scenic landscape (recently voted by The Lonely Planet as one of the top 10 places to visit before you die) will make you wish you had more time in Belfast. Ask our friends at Northern Ireland Tours to take you there or simply point your rental toward the A2, stopping off en-route at the picturesque fishing village of Carnlough. Then stop further north in the quaint seaside town of Ballycastle and take a short boat trip to Rathlin Island, a stunningly remote bird sanctuary. Keeping on the A2 you’ll eventually reach the Causeway, a magical collection of 40,000 basalt columns and rock formations created by an ancient volcanic eruption. It’s one of the most spectacular landscapes you’ll ever see. Be adventurous and don’t stop there. If you continue on the A2 you can discover miles and miles of golden beaches, including the breathtaking White Park Bay, the frighteningly spectacular Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge and the classic seaside resorts of Portrush and Portstewart.
Another great day trip roughly two hours by car, is Derry, just 70 miles from Belfast. It’s in the extreme west of Northern Ireland, just east of the Republic of Ireland’s County Donegal. Well worth visiting, Derry is emerging as an upbeat cosmopolitan city with lots to see and do. Derry’s sights are entangled in some juicy history and the 16th century walls surrounding the city are among the oldest in Europe. This modern city has interesting museums, local boutiques, pubs and clubs. Derry is also a city of traditional Irish folk music with many venues showcasing local talent.
Belfast and the surrounding areas have hidden treasures of huge proportions. To truly discover it, jump in and spend a few days among the giants.
Carrick A Rede Bridge
Visitors to Belfast can get excellent advice from the downtown Visitor and Convention Bureau. www.gotobelfast.com
The country code for Northern Ireland is 44 and the city code for Belfast is 28.
*Northern Ireland Tours can help you plan your Belfast trip.
www.northernirelandtours.co.uk
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Where to stay:
The Merchant – a five star luxury hotel set in a refurbished bank. Luxury spa with roof-top Jacuzzi. Voted ‘World’s Best Hotel Bar’ two year’s running. 16 Skipper Street Belfast. 28 9023 4888. www.themerchanthotel.com Rooms from £115 per night.
The Salty Dog – charming and quirky seaside boutique hotel overlooking the marina and sea beyond. Michelin star chef in residence. 10-12 Seacliff Road, Bangor, County Down. 28 9127 0696. www.thesaltydoghotel.com Rooms from £55 per night.
Maranatha Guest House – an elegant guest-house overlooking Ormeau Park just minutes from the city centre. Maranatha House 254 Ravenhill Road, Belfast. 28 9046 0200. www.maranatha-guesthouse.com Rooms from £35 per night.
Culloden Hotel – set in gorgeous gardens on the banks of Belfast Lough in the city’s most prestigious area, this former bishop’s palace is a luxurious retreat. Bangor Road. 28 9042 6777. www.hastingshotels.com/culloden-estate-and-spa Rooms from £190 per night.
Where to Eat & Drink:
Deanes – famous city centre French brasserie. Michelin starred 2007-2010. Simple dishes done well. 36-40 Howard Street. 28 9033 1134. http://www.michaeldeane.co.uk/deanes/
Cayenne – fabulous Asian fusion cuisine. County Antrim. 28 9033 1532. www.cayenne-restaurant.co.uk
Coco – eat in style under a glitter ball at this trendy restaurant and bar near Belfast’s chic boutiques. Weekly “Lazy Sunday” brunch. 7-11 Linenhall St. Belfast; 9031 1150; www.cocobelfast.com
Rayanne House – feast on Titanic’s first class passenger menu as you overlook Belfast’s Lough shore from where she was launched. Rayanne House, has meticulously recreated the last dinner served to passengers on-board the iconic ship. 60 Demesne Road, Holywood/Belfast. 28 9042 5859. www.rayannehouse.com
James St South – owned by a husband and wife team, this restaurant is located on the ground floor of a historic linen mill and blends French cooking with local produce. Great wine list. 21 James Street South. 28 9043 4310. www.jamesstreetsouth.co.uk
The Salty Dog – well worth the 12 mile trip south of the city centre, this is a dining delight. A combination of Michelin standard food from Chef Derek Creagh without the Michelin standard price tag. Right on the edge of the charming local harbor and marina. 10-12 Seacliff Road Bangor Co. Down. 28 9127 0696. www.thesaltydoghotel.com
The Crown Liquor Saloon – voted the most beautiful bar in the world and unbelievably rich in color and design. 46 Great Victoria Street. 28 9024 3187. www.crownbar.com
The Spaniard Bar – a local favourite. The bar is decorated in old school records which make for a fun setup. 3 Skipper Street. 28 9023 2448.www.thespaniardbar.com
The Merchant Hotel – Five star hotel with Victorian grandeur and Art Deco inspired sleek modernity. It has a fabulous jazz bar. 16 Skipper Street. 28 9023 4888. www.themerchanthotel.com
What to See & Do:
Cave Hill – Breathtaking view overlooking the entire city of Belfast. This hill is said to have inspired the famous novel, Gulliver’s Travels. 634 Antrim Road. 845 722 3344.
Belfast Zoo – Home to more than 1,200 animals and 140 species. There is a rainforest house you walk through with tropical landscaping and a constant temperature of 27 degrees. Antrim Road. 28 9037 0578.www.belfastzoo.co.uk
Ulster Folk & Transport Museum – Voted best visitor experience at the recent Northern Irish Tourist Board Awards. Discover cottages, farms, schools, shops and climb on and off majestic steam locomotives. Cultra, Holywood. 28 9042 8428.http://www.nmni.com/uftm
St. George’s Market – One of the oldest attractions and great atmosphere. Fresh, local produce. 12-20 East Bridge Street. 28 9043 5704. http://www.belfastcity.gov.uk/stgeorgesmarket/
Fashion Souk – Northern Ireland’s only fair-fashion market continuing to build on the reduce, reuse, recycle ethos. 1-7 Bedford Street. 28 9033 4400. http://www.thefashionsouk.com
Rathlin Island – Northernmost point of County Antrim with a population of just over 100 people. Only 4 miles from east to west and 2.5 miles from north to south. 18 Bayview Road. 28 2076 9299.www.rathlinballycastleferry.com
White Park Bay Beach – This spectacular sandy beach forms a white arc between two headlands on the North Antrim coast. Even on a busy day there is plenty of room for quiet relaxation. www.northantrim.com/white_park_bay.htm
Carrcik-a-Rede Rope Bridge – Many people do stunts and tricks on this bridge. This swinging bridge is the only way off of Rathlin Island. 119a White Park Road, Ballintoy. 28 2076 9839.
http://www.discovernorthernireland.com/Carrick-a-Rede-Rope-Bridge-Antrim-Northern-Ireland-Ballintoy-Ballycastle-P2829
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Images courtesy of Belfast Photographer Stephen Potts. All rights reserved.