Český Krumlov – Take a Bow

He looked like Santa Claus and I remember him chopping wood in the yard with a cigarette between his bushy lips. I think he had a dog. This random memory of my only visit to Český Krumlov returns as my coach pulls into town. Disembarking, I follow in the footsteps of my younger self; a wet-behind-the-ears student, backpacking around Europe with my pal, John. We came to the continent looking for adventure and girls. We found mainly adventure.

Our plan was loose, at best. We would flip coins to determine our next destination, and Český was a place that was recommended to us. I say recommended, but what I mean is that we woke up one morning to find the words “Český Krumlov” scribbled in our dog-eared guide (I still have the very tome on a bookshelf at home).

Cesky Krumlov as Viewed from the Castle
Cesky Krumlov as Viewed from the Castle

The words were penned by a fellow traveller in a bar the night before. He had run out of superlatives to describe the place – either poor vocabulary or too many beers and claimed we had to see it for ourselves. The guide concurred, so we travelled to the town, took lodgings with Santa and went exploring.

Well, sort of. Lively bars and cheap pilsner stymied our attempts to imbibe anything remotely enriching; young and stupid, we squandered the cultural offerings of Český Krumlov for smoky pubs and shady clubs. But now I’m a few years older and I’m back, so let’s have another go at it. Dominated by the magnificent Český Krumlov Castle – the second largest citadel in the Czech Republic after Prague’s – this UNESCO listed old town is a medieval masterpiece; a glorious medley of terracotta roofs, baroque spires and rococo gables.

Cesky Krumlov Cstle Dominates the Town's Skyline (Credit Ladislav Renner)
Cesky Krumlov Cstle Dominates the Town’s Skyline (Credit Ladislav Renner)

Built around the meandering Vltava River, Český Krumlov sits in a small valley surrounded on all sides by verdant hills, which painters use to find new perspectives on an old town.

The Vltava River Carves Through Cesky Krumlov
The Vltava River Carves Through Cesky Krumlov

A Baroque Illusion

On the subject of perspective, the first thing to bear in mind when you look at Český Krumlov is that it’s not a real town. Like the grandiose baroque architecture that it’s famous for, life here is not at all as it seems. “Český Krumlov is a tourist town,” says a castle guide, Tereza Hofbauerová. “People don’t live here anymore, they live outside, which is a shame.”

Ultimately, the town is somewhat of a victim of its own beauty; its popularity with tourists has pushed prices upward; residential properties have succumbed to hotels, shops and restaurants, catering to the busloads of tourists who arrive here throughout the year. Essentially, Český Krumlov is a theme park for adults and, like an excited kid at Six Flags, I race towards the main attraction – the castle. Protected by a deep moat, which is inhabited by two large bears, this citadel is a building of extraordinary beauty and a tour of its lavish interior is a journey through the centuries.

A Performance in the Baroque Theatre, Cesky Krumlov
A Performance in the Baroque Theatre, Cesky Krumlov

It is in this castle that I meet Tereza, who tells me that the building, constructed by Lord of Krumlov in the 13th century, is haunted by a former resident. “They call her the white lady,” she says. “Her real name was Perchta von Roseburg and she was cursed by her dying husband when she refused to forgive him for treating her badly.”

We walk down corridors (no sign of Perchta) and pass through endless rooms, each festooned with art, antiques and mannequins, adorned with garments that are hundreds of years old.

The Cobbled Streets of Cesky Krumlov
The Cobbled Streets of Cesky Krumlov

Star of the Show

Eventually we arrive at the castle’s star attraction – the baroque theatre. Built in 1680 as a private cinema (and refurbished in 1765), it was in this gorgeous room that the castle’s last private owner, Adolph Schwarzenburg, received the Czechoslovakian president, Edvard Benes, to give financial aid for the defence of the country against Nazi Germany.

This Long Corridor in Cesky Krumlov Castle Leads to the Baroque Theatre
This Long Corridor in Cesky Krumlov Castle Leads to the Baroque Theatre

But we all know how that ended and when the Gestapo rolled into town, they seized the castle. After the war it was confiscated by the Czechoslovakian government, and has remained in their hands ever since. They’ve certainly taken care of it.  “This is the best preserved baroque theatre in the world,” explains Tereza, scanning the auditorium with genuine affection. “Only Drottningholm in Sweden can compare.”

Everything in this theatre is as it was 250 years ago; the frescos, costumes (all 600 of them), props, special effects machines and set pieces, which can be arranged to create 13 different scenes. Only the candles, which would have lit the auditorium in the old days, are gone – and that was to prevent the theatre from burning down like so many others did. I ask Tereza if there’s a play on anytime soon. “No. We have only a few shows a year,” she says, dashing my hopes.

For all the grandeur of the castle (and its sumptuous grounds), I find Český Krumlov’s modest attractions more charming; the cobbled backstreets, the riverside restaurants and quaint souvenir shops. Most impressive of all, though, is the Seidel Photography Museum, which occupies the former home of Český photographer, Josef Seidel.

A Painter Touches Up the Walls of Cesky Krumlov Castle
A Painter Touches Up the Walls of Cesky Krumlov Castle

Seidel was a master of his art and chronicled life in South Bohemia in the decades before WWII. His extraordinary images, a fraction of which are on display at the museum, provide portals into bygone eras, windows into long forgotten lives.

Ironically, Seidel’s antiquated equipment tells the story of how the world has changed since his departure. Walking around his dark room, looking at the obsolete gear, I mourn his lost art. I look down at the digital camera dangling from my neck – it feels terribly unromantic.

However, I’m soon cheered up by a visit to a nearby pub, where I make the pleasant discovery that here, in this old town where time stands still, even the beer prices seem adverse to change.

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Where to Stay:

Hotel Růže – Housed in a former Jesuit dormitory from the 16th century, Hotel Růže is arguably the most prestigious hotel in Český Krumlov. Period features abound inside the five-star property, which serves exquisite cuisine, offers excellent views and even has a pool. Horni 154, Český Krumlov; +420 380 772 100; www.janhotels.cz

Hotel Old Inn – Overlooking the main square, this four-star property is located in the heart of the action. Home to two fabulous pubs and an excellent restaurant, Hotel Old Inn might date back to the 13th century, but its 52 beautifully adorned rooms have all the modern conveniences. Náměstí Svornosti 12, Český Krumlov; +420 380 772 500; www.janhotels.cz

Hotel Dvořák – Overlooking the Vltava River, Hotel Dvořák occupies an enviable spot opposite Český Krumlov Castle. The hotel is charming and most of the 22 rooms have excellent views, along with the restaurant. Radniční 101, Český Krumlov; +420 380 711 020; www.hoteldvorak.com

Where to Eat:

Švejk – Taking its name from Jaroslav Hasek’s celebrated Czech novel, The Good Soldier Švejk, this fabulous restaurant offers a master class in hearty Bohemian cuisine. The décor is just as exuberant with an ornate wooden bar, panelled walls and beamed ceilings. Latran 12, Český Krumlov; +420 380 743 305; www.svejkck.cz

Hotel Růže – The summer terrace at Hotel Růže is one of the finest spots in Český Krumlov to while away an evening. While diners quaff cocktails and admire the excellent views of the Vltava River, the hotel’s talented chefs do marvelous things to local and international fare. Horni 154, Český Krumlov; +420 380 772 100; www.janhotels.cz

Rytirska Krcma Marketa – You probably can’t pronounce it and you might struggle to find it, but persevere with this restaurant because it is an absolute gem. Serving delicious Czech staples – beef steaks, pork medallions, garlic soup – it is beautifully decorated and an exceptionally good value. Krčma Markéta 62, Český Krumlov; +420 739 270 479; www.krcma-marketa.cz

Where to Drink:

Apotheka Café Bar – This former pharmacy prescribes an altogether different tonic to punters nowadays. Most of its creations come in the form of cocktails, which drinkers can imbibe inside the ornamental bar or sip in the sun on the small terrace outside. Latran 46, Český Krumlov; +420 728 336 064; www.apothekabar.wz.cz

Zapa Bar – Arguably the best place for cocktails in Český Krumlov, Zapa has some fine mixologists working behind its beautiful bar. Housed under vaulted arches, Zapa’s spirit selection is second to none and its cozy ambiance will convince you to stay for another. Latran 15, Český Krumlov; +420 380 712 559

Gypsy Bar – An absolute riot, frankly. Yes, there’s barely enough room to swing a cat in here, but what Gypsy Bar lacks in space it makes up for in sheer entertainment. Arrive early, hungry and ready to knock back some local beer with the resident gypsy band. Dlouha 31, Český Krumlov; +420 380 717 585

What to See and Do:

Český Krumlov Castle – Looming large over the town, this iconic castle looks like it belongs in a fairy tale. The second largest castle in the Czech Republic after Prague’s, no visit to Český could be considered complete without taking a tour of this UNESCO World Heritage Monument, which boasts the world’s oldest and best preserved Baroque Theatre. Zamek 59, Český Krumlov; +420 380 704 721; www.castle.ckrumlov.cz

The Seidel Photography Museum – A cultural treasure on the edge of Český Krumlov, this charming museum occupies the former home of photographer, Josef Seidel, who chronicled the lives of the locals within the landscape before WWII and the Soviet occupation. A hidden gem. Linecka 272, Český Krumlov; +420 380 712 354; www.seidel.cz

The Vltava River – Meandering through Český Krumlov, a canoe ride down the Vltava offers a fresh perspective on this fairytale town. Ideal for beginners, the slow flowing river supports a number of rental companies including Malecek Rafting and Canoe. Rooseveltova 28, Český Krumlov; +420 702 000 802

The Revolving Theatre – Nestled amid the grounds of Český Krumlov Castle is an open-air amphitheatre complete with revolving auditorium. Those hoping to catch a show at this novel playhouse will have to book tickets in advance – only a handful of productions are performed each year. U Zámecké Zahrady, Český Krumlov; +420 386 711 222; www.otacivehlediste.cz