A Bagel’s Humble Beginnings
Krakow is the ideal getaway for tourists seeking a European vacation off the beaten path. Dating back to the 7th Century, Krakow’s streets are teeming with history: from fairytales incarnate, complete with castle, royalty and dragon lair, to darker tales of mass extermination. Though people once lined up to leave, Krakow is now a thriving metropolis attracting eager visitors and for good reason. As one of the only major cities that escaped the destruction of World War II, Krakow is one of the best-preserved medieval city centers in Europe. The city is a cultural destination; even the once desolate Jewish quarter is now a hot spot for art and music blossoming among historic synagogues. The adventure can be broken into three areas: the Old Town, Wawel and the Jewish quarter.
First stop: Old Town, whose soul is the Rynek, the Main Market Square in Krakow and one of the largest medieval squares in Europe. It is constantly bustling with locals and tourists alike, and the cobblestone square and alleyways make it the perfect spot for huge events such as parades (i.e. the International Parade of Dragons), charity concerts (i.e. the Great Orchestra of Christmas Charity) and exhibitions and fairs throughout the year. At night, Rynek is the place to be. The streets flood with the young and rowdy, ready to get down in one of the many clubs and bars in the area. Historically, the square served as a gathering place for merchants from all over Europe. They traded goods in the giant Sukiennice (Cloth Hall) right in the middle of the square. Ryneck was also a destination for prayer in the gothic Mariacki Church. It is Krakow’s most prominent basilica and its’ bugle calls every hour from the highest tower. Continue exploring the maze of Old Town streets that jut from the square at right angles. Sit at an outdoor cafe, have a drink and reflect on the historic area while listening to street musicians. Then, hop on a horse carriage for a tour of the city streets.
Grodzka street, part of the merchant’s route, leads straight to Wawel, the location of the Royal Castle. It sits atop a limestone hill on the bend of the Vistula River. The castle housed 500 years of Royalty. Wawel is allegedly one of the mystic energy centers of the world because the stones are rumored to impart tranquility to those nearby. People crowd around the southwest wall of the inner castle courtyard to press against the rocks, already worn from human touch. The stunning Wawel Cathedral combines Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque architecture. This is where the Royal Tombs serve as the resting place for centuries of Polish royalty.
At the bottom of Wawel hill, check out the cave of the legendary fire-spewing dragon. The story goes that the destructive dragon pillaged homes, killed virgins and devoured livestock. The king promised his daughter’s hand in marriage to the man who slew the dragon, but one after another the bravest knights met their fiery doom. Then a poor shoemaker stuffed a lamb with sulpher and set it by the cave. The greedy dragon ate the bait. He had to drink half of the Vistula river to quench his thirst before his aching stomach exploded. Now, a metal sculpture of the Wawel Dragon breathes fire every few minutes to mark the dragon’s den.
Within walking distance of the Old Town and Wawel, Kazimierz survives as a monument to a vibrant Jewish community that lived there for 500 years. The narrow cobblestone streets are filled with trendy bars and arty gems like the Alchemist coffee shop and Rezerwat Winyl (Record Shop). The Jewish quarter is now a hip artsy area and many locals hit the nightlife there.
Still, the streets remain marked with Jewish history. Restaurants bare Hebrew writing and many synagogues still hold services. The Remah Shul dates all the way back to 1558 and is named after Rabbi Moses Isserles Auerbach (c. 1520-1572) a.k.a. Remuh (RaMa), an infamous writer-philosopher and recognized miracle maker. You can see his grave in the adjacent Remuh Cemetery, which still draws Jews to pray at his grave (many Jews believe prayers are more likely heard near holy graves because it is closer to God).
Follow visitors’ lead and leave a note or rock on Remuh’s gravestone. Walk over to the neighboring Temple Synagogue, famous for its lavish interiors with ornate ‘Moorish’ woodwork. It also doubles as a concert hall if you can catch a live show. Then visit the Isaac Synagogue whose restored interiors house a movie/ photo exhibition called In memory of Polish Jews. Kazimierz is also where Oscar Schindler had his home and factory, though now you can only see the famous outside gate. You’ll recognize the wrought iron pattern from the movie.
For visitors with an emotional experience in mind, the notorious Nazi concentration and extermination camps of Auschwitz and Birkenau are located seventy kilometers west of Krakow (an hour’s drive). Ask your hotel to point you n the right direction for a coach tour or ask at Galicja Museum in Kazimierz. The vast camps stand as a reminder that the beautiful area has a dark chapter that must not be forgotten. Between June 1941 and January 1945 about one million men, women and children perished in the three Auschwitz concentration camps. Auschwitz itself has been turned into a museum, but Birkenau remains in an eerie authentic state. The atrocities attest how far Krakow has come in just over 60 years. A town that has seen so much and stayed intact, molded by each event, is a destination with a lot of knowledge to impart.
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Helpful Hints
– Direct trains cover the route between Kraków Główny train station and the airport in 15 minutes
– The bulk of the city’s historic area has been turned into a pedestrian zone with pedicabs and horse buggies however, the tramlines run within a three-block radius.
– Krakow is generally a safe place for tourists. Still, use common sense: don’t leave your bags unattended and hold your belongings tightly in crowded places (like the trams and buses).
– Many restaurant and museum doors around Krakow are marked with a sticker that says “Please come in, we do speak English here.”
– Don’t be confused by the bathroom symbols: circle for women’s and triangle for men’s.
– Watch out for the omnipresent pigeons (according to the legend they are in fact brave knights changed into birds by an evil sorcerer).
– Avoid drinking Krakow’s tap water. Even the Poles prefer bottled water, which is readily available for about $.60 US.
– The Polish currency is called a zloty. ATM’s are called “Bankomats.” Using them is a fast and easy way to get Polish currency from your ATM card. Most major banks have ATMs and there are others that are operated by Euronet, the largest ATM network in Poland.
The country code for Poland is 48.
Where to Eat & Drink
Pierozki u Vincenta –You can’t go to Poland without sampling pierogis, hand-made dough parcels with tasty fillings—and with more than 25 different types, this is the place to get the real experience. Cheese or potato fillings are a safe bet, but for the adventurous, try apple and liver, spinach and mozzarella or chicken and pineapple. Go with a group and get multiple orders to share. The place gets jam-packed around meal-times. Bozego Ciala 12; 12-430-68-34; www.pierozkiuvincenta.pl
Bagelmama- Need a reminder of home? Bagelmama boasts “New York” bagels. Although, little known fact, the bagel is Polish. It was brought to Manhattan around 1900 by Polish Jewish immigrants. The bagel was actually invented in the 16th century in Kazimierz, just down the street, as a competitor to obwarzanek, a lean bread of wheat flour designed for Lent. The bajgiel became a staple of the Polish national diet. Dajwór 10; 12-346-16-46; http://www.bagelmama.com/home.htm
Alchemia- Once the location of Kabbalist debate, Alchemia is now at the heart of the artistic revival in Kazimierz. A mystic air still lingers in the antique furniture and paintings shadowed by large wax dripping candles. The Bohemian basement is the go to place for the Klezmer scene and they regularly exhibit work from local artists. Indie and Jazz musicians also perform from all over the world. Catch a show but go early: the place fills up quick with tourists and locals alike. Estery 5; 12-421-22-00; www.alchemia.com.pl
Tajemniczy Ogród– Hidden down one of the more charming streets of Old Town, Ulica Bracka’s outdoor courtyard (its name literally means Secret Garden) makes it a must in warmer months. Grab a wicker chair in the cozy garden or move to the split level indoor seating for their large menu of continental fare. Live music transforms the café to a bar at night, buzzing till 3 am. Plac Nowy 9; 12-430-67-76; www.tajemniczyogrod.pl
Prozak- Known as a cult joint for the local music scene, this basement club draws musicians from around the world to rip up the dance floor. The cave-like space is usually one of the last to close for the night and it draws a crowd that keep partying till last call. Dominikański 6; 12-429 11-28; www.prozak.pl
Where to Sleep
Hotel Saski: While seeing history, why not stay in it too. Built in the 16th Century, Saski is one of Kakow’s most historically significant hotels, with a 200-year-old tradition of hospitality. While the old wooden elevator is a little rickety, it adds to the antique vibe of the mansion. Central Old Town location and the highlight of the place is the trendy restaurant/ bar, the Metropolitan. Slawkowska 3; 12-421-42-22; www.hotelsaski.com
Hotel Alef: Steven Spielberg stayed in this Kazimierz classic while filming Schindler’s List. Hotel Alef and the Jewish cafe downstairs offer an authentic prewar Kazimierz experience. The rooms feature antique furniture, artwork and architectural details like ceiling medallions and wide-plank dark wood floors. Request a high room for gorgeous views of the castle. Ul szeroka 17, Kazimierz; 12-424-31-31; http://www.alef.pl/index_e.php
Grand Hotel: This 19th-century building is a site to see in itself. Once the palace of Princess Izabela Czartoryska, it is now one of Krakow’s most elegant hotels. Stained-glass graces every floor and the restaurant has a stained-glass ceiling. Each of the 56 rooms is individually decorated with antique furnishings and artwork. Even the bathrooms are adorned with semi-precious stones. Plus, you are right smack in the Main Square for convenience. Sławkowska; 12- 683-26-00; www.grand.pl
Must See
The Sukiennice (Cloth Hall) is not only an architectural marvel and historical landmark; it is also the perfect place to find authentic keepsakes to bring back home! Just like its original form, the huge building’s first floor holds a market where local artists sell work like amber jewelry and sheep skin rugs. Get the real experience of the main market square and do some trading!