What’s New in Newport, Rhode Island
Maritime Newport, America’s first resort, is bestowed with stunning coastlines on the south, east and west. Renowned as a mecca for jet-setters, polo players and yachting enthusiasts, it’s a rarefied place with Gilded-Age mansions and gleaming yachts not to mention the place where Jacqueline Bouvier married John F. Kennedy and the location of the Camelot era’s summer White House. Understandably, Newport may seem like a place only for a select few.
But opportunities to delve a bit deeper into this small enclave, courtesy of recently-transplanted pals, dissuaded me from the notion that Newport is only for celebrity globe-trotters. I discovered it’s beyond mere glamour and glitz. On another good friend’s suggestion, I checked out Theophilus North, Thornton Wilder’s entertaining novel that takes place post-Gilded-Age Newport, 1926. A veritable travelogue that’s narrated by Theophilus “Teddie” North, it describes Newport’s nine cities (a variation on Troy’s nine cities excavated by 19th-century German archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann) including the maritime, military and moneyed ones.
Like Wilder’s novel, Newport is multi-layered and more complex than its glittery surface may suggest. Newport’s age-old mystery and allure is evident in its historic landmarks, architectural pleasures, awe-inspiring gardens, major musical events (celebrating both folk and jazz), impressive culinary landscape, spectacular coast lines, scenic beaches and illustrious past, including pirates and Vikings. Back in 1524, Italian explorer Giovanni da Verrazano first saw Block Island and was reminded of the Greek island of Rhodes. Locals mistakenly thought he was referring to triangular Aquidneck, where Newport is located, and renamed it Rhode Island. Eventually, along with all the other islands of Narragansset Bay, it was politically united with a series of plantation settlements south of Providence along the bay’s eastern and western sides, which became Rhode Island and Providence Plantations. In 1663 the colony received its Royal Charter and the town was the capital city until 1790 when it was moved to Providence.
Some suggest that Newport’s history goes back even further to 1000 A.D., during the legendary Viking exploration of North America, based on the Old Stone Mill in Touro Park, also referred to as Newport Tower. Immortalized by the poet Henry Wadsworth Longfellow in The Skeleton in Armor, the stone structure was more likely built in the seventeenth century during the time of Governor Benedict Arnold. In Wilder’s novel, Newport plays a starring role and various aspects of the city make cameos throughout the narrative like when North ambles along the must-be-experienced Cliff Walk. With its three-and-a-half miles of pathways, on one side Cliff Walk allows unsurpassed access to the natural beauty of the Newport shoreline and on the other the historic and architectural wonders of Newport’s Gilded Age. Wildflowers, birds, and geology are also part of this refreshing walk. Most of the walk is an easy trek although there are some challenging spots. It’s unique as a nationally recognized trail that happens to be located within a national historic district, an indication of how seriously Newport takes preservation and restoration. In 1975 the walk was designated as a National Recreation Trail becoming the 65th in the nation and the first in New England.
Ocean Avenue starts near the end of Cliff Walk and continues along the ocean for ten miles. Along the way you have breathtaking views of ocean and coastline as well as over-the-top mansions, although even the most ostentatious of these have difficulty competing with Mother Nature. Admittedly, Newport’s exquisite shoreline is a big draw but there are alluring attractions also awaiting inland. One of these is the Touro Synagogue, built in 1763 and the oldest Jewish house of worship. Designed by Peter Harrison, noted British-Colonial era architect, the synagogue is considered Harrison’s most important work. The Georgian exterior leads into a vast interior where a series of twelve Ionic columns, each carved from a single tree, signify the twelve tribes of ancient Israel. The ark containing the Torah is on the east wall and hanging above it is a mural in Hebrew representing the Ten Commandments. The building’s orientation is eastward toward Jerusalem and today it remains an active Orthodox synagogue.
More secular architecture may be admired at Newport Casino, the home of the International Tennis Hall of Fame (where Teddy North taught tennis lessons to beginners). The ITHF sponsors exhibits and events for tennis players and fans. Designed in 1880 by Stanford White, in the McKim, Mead, & White signature shingle style, the building itself is worth a look. Prescott Farm consists of several historic Newport County buildings situated on the site of the former Overing estate. The Newport Restoration Foundation is responsible for bringing together this intriguing collection of structures. The Robert Sherman Windmill from 1812 was restored in 1971 and is still working. Tours that let visitors see how an operational mill functions are available and it plays a pivotal role in the thriving agricultural community. Another behind-the-scenes experience is to be found at Aquidneck Lobster on Bowen’s Wharf at the end of the dock. Visitors get an inside view of this vast working fishing center and the labor-intensive process of fresh seafood production.
Not surprisingly, Newport has the usual top-tier retailers. But it’s also home to more unusual establishments like Aardvark Antiques. Since 1969, Aardvark’s has been the go-to place for architectural and decorative elements. A magnet for architects, interior decorators, landscape designers, special event artists, and the film and theater crowd, the place specializes in antiques such as stained glass, iron gates, fencing, mantels and lighting fixtures. Thames Glass is another fascinating place to shop. Here glass makers create their wares right in the open so you can watch the molten glass being blown, shaped and molded into an assortment of colorful bowls, bottles, vases and glass fruits and vegetables.
Redwood Library & Athenaeum, the oldest lending library in the country, was opened in 1750 and is made entirely from wood. Short tours are given to allow visitors a look at some rare books and paintings including the famous unfinished portrait of George Washington by Gilbert Stuart, sometimes referred to as The Athenaeum. The image of Washington from that painting is what graces the U.S. dollar bill.
Mansions are many in Newport and every conceivable type of tour featuring the great estates is on offer. One that stands out from the rest is the Rooftop & Behind-the-Scenes Tour at The Elms. The unique rooftop access gives visitors an extraordinary vantage point of the bay and ocean. Also on view are the inner workings of a mansion built in 1901 and modeled after a French Chateau in the 1750s.
Newport’s culinary scene is naturally centered around seafood and runs the gamut from the casual, like downing some oyster shooters, a favorite past time of Newporters especially when accompanied by beer from a local brewery, to formal-attire dining served by a small army of people and involving many courses and stretching over a number of hours. An elegant, but informal dining option is Scales & Shells where everyone is knowledgeable and passionate about seafood. Often the staff knows not only when the fish was caught but also where and by whom. Diners can watch their dinner being prepared in the open kitchen and even ask the chef questions. Castle Hill Inn offers a lovely al fresco brunch served on the lawn. The oceanfront location, a 40-acre peninsula just off Ocean Drive, is the setting for all sorts of outdoor games played on the expansive lawn, including bocce, croquet and classic lawn games like checkers and chess. A kite or two can often be seen flying in the ocean breezes. For a truly moving experience get aboard the Newport Dinner Train. Have a leisurely dining experience for two and a half hours while meandering through Newport, Middletown and Portsmouth. As the train chugs along the shoreline, dinner is served against a beautiful moving backdrop.
Accommodations in Newport encompass a range of possibilities from ultra premium to very affordable. The Rose Island Lighthouse, built in 1869 and restored in 1993, offers a thoroughly rustic experience for the intrepid traveler. With no running water or electricity, guests are obligated to do for themselves and pay a fair price to do so. Hotel Viking, located at the top of Newport’s Historic Hill is a member of Historic Hotels of America and resonates Old World charm. Built in the 1920’s by the citizens of Newport to accommodate guests and visitors to their city, the Hotel Viking is thought of as “the people’s hotel.” With a historic chapel on property, its’ modern amenities include the luxurious SpaTerre, fine dining at One Bellevue, an indoor pool, whirlpool and fitness center.
Along with Newport’s nine cities, Wilder’s Teddy North also names his nine ambitions – anthropologist, archaeologist, magician and detective to name a few. When he was a young boy he wanted to be a saint, his name Theophilus meaning friend of God in Greek, but ultimately yearns simply to be a free man. Newport is where Theophilus comes to understand himself better and figure out life’s priorities. This island city can indeed have that effect on you. Unsurpassed splendor, both man-made and natural, are interwoven with a richly-textured history that sooner or later and one way or another lures you in.
Where to Sleep
The Rose Island Lighthouse – On a tiny island (18.5 acres) in the middle of Narragansett Bay where manual labor is in store for guests who are asked to do chores including pumping their own water. (401) 847-4242. www.roseislandlighthouse.org
Hotel Viking – in keeping with the Old Norse atmosphere the clock above the lobby’s front desk depicts ancient Nordic Runes.1 Bellevue Avenue, (401) 847-3300. www.hotelviking.com
Stella Maris Inn – a convent at one time for the Sisters of Cluny who named it Stella Maris, or “Star of the Sea.” 91 Washington Street, (401) 849-2862. www.stellamarisinn.com )
Where to Eat
Scales & Shells – an interactive dining experience with an open kitchen so diners can meet the chefs and select their dishes. 527 Thames Street. (401) 846-FISH. www.scalesandshells.com
Castle Hill Inn – dedicated to serving a local and seasonal menu that relies on the native fishing fleet and private growers. 590 Ocean Avenue. (401) 849-3800. www.castlehillinn.com
Newport Dinner Train – guests are served drinks, appetizers and dinner along with views of the Mount Hope Bridge and docked U.S. Navy ships. 56 Bridge Street. (401) 841-8700. www.newportdinnertrain.com
What to See and Do
Old Stone Mill in Touro Park aka Newport Tower – during the American Revolution, the tower was used by Americans as a lookout, and by the British to store munitions. Touro Park, at the top of Mill Street.
Cliff Walk – a highlight of visiting Newport is being able to experience this ever-changing walk, every day from sunrise to sunset. Beware poison ivy. Newport Parks. (401) 845-5802. www.cliffwalk.com
Ocean Drive – on foot, by bike or automobile the OD is a must-see if only for a portion of its 10-mile length.
Touro Synagogue – free tours are offered that include the opportunity to see the nearby Jewish cemetery, which dates from the 17th-century. 85 Touro Street. (401) 847-4794. www.tourosynagogue.org
Newport Casino/International Tennis Hall of Fame – a shrine to the game of tennis, the complex boasts the worlds oldest continuously used competition grass courts. 194 Bellevue Avenue. (401) 849-3990. www.tennisfame.com
Prescott Farm/The Robert Sherwin Windmill – History comes alive at this charming country setting. Bring a picnic and enjoy the grounds. 2009 West Main Road/Route 114. (401) 849-7300 or 847-6230. www.newportrestoration.com/prescott
Aquidneck Lobster – always a selection of super-fresh seafood on ice; and, of course, the lobsters are for sale. Bowen’s Wharf. (401) 846-0106.
Aardvark Antiques – run by “urban archaeologist” Arthur Grover who scours local estates and backyards for unique outdoor statuary. 9 Connell Highway. (401) 849-7233. www.aardvarkantiques.com
Thames Glass – the double doors are usually open–even in winter–to provide some relief to the glass makers from four kilns, which heat the glass to 2000 degrees. 688 Lower Thames Street, (401) 846-0576. www.thamesglass.com
Redwood Library & Athenaeum – only museum members may take out books, but visitors can check out the library’s history on the short tours offered by the staff on weekdays. 50 Bellevue Avenue. (401) 847-0292. www.redwood1747.org
Rooftop & Behind-the-Scenes Tour at The Elms – completed in 1901, at a cost reported at approximately $1.4 million, with interiors and furnishings designed by Allard and Sons of Paris to showcase the owners’ collection of Renaissance ceramics, 18th-century French and Venetian paintings, and Oriental jades. 367 Bellevue Avenue. (401) 847-0478. www.newportmansions.org