Fiercely proud of its starring role as the birthplace of the U.S., Philadelphia, long lauded for its historical significance, is practically a cultural goldmine. Forget that Rocky famously put it on the map years ago running through its gritty Italian market and up the Art Museum steps. Today, the Mummers who march annually on New Year’s Day to the rhythm of banjos have something new to make noise about.
The city’s reputation as an artistic hub achieved milestone status late last year when the new museum for philanthropist Albert Barnes’ sprawling collection of Impressionist paintings opened. Valued at close to a billion dollars, the over 300 works of Picasso, Matisse, Renoir and Cezanne had been installed in his last residence when he was alive, allowing few visitors to thrill to the sight of them. These works, now in the new Barnes Foundation and many more, along with a vast artistic community and a thriving music, dance and culinary culture have shined up Philly’s star even brighter.
If the sight of a cracked bell and the first American flag brings you to your knees, or if drinking a local craft beer with your “buds” in a circa 1700’s pub floats your boat, or even if you just crave a good, soft pretzel and a real cheese steak with fried onions, then Philly’s your place.
Strategically classified as a big city of many small neighborhoods, this is no sprawling urban nightmare but a perfectly proportioned metropolis. The Philly Sound was perhaps the beginning of the city’s stellar reputation as a music hotbed, still going strong today, and the cobblestone streets, colonial townhouses, Federal style architecture and horse drawn carriages are the perfect backdrop for a thriving alternative scene.
Check your attitude here, by the way, Philly is down home not a night at the opera. We’ve got William Penn to thank for that!
The area codes for Philadelphia are 215 and 267.
Where to Stay:
Hotel Monaco – The first 5 star hotel in the city within walking distance of Independence Hall and the Liberty Bell (it’s about history here, remember?). Sumptuous rooms, trendy restaurants on-site and excellent service make this your first choice if you’re heading into town. 433 Chestnut Street, 215-925-2111; www.monaco-philadelphia.com
The Rittenhouse – Nothing like sweeping views of Rittenhouse Square and round the clock pampering to make you want to spend a few more days in Philly. The red carpet to the royal treatment begins here. 210 West Rittenhouse Square, 215-546-9000, www.rittenhousehotel.com
Le Meridien – Originally the YMCA, this intriguing Georgian Revival-style structure adjacent to Love Park will give you endless ideas for when you get back to your chic black, white and red quarters. 1421 Arch St, tel. 215-422-8200, www.starwoodhotels.com/lemeridien
The Palomar – If you like your hotel hip and eco-friendly, try one of their spa rooms.
117 S 17th St, tel. 215-563-5006, www.hotelpalomar-philadelphia.com
Loews Philadelphia – The Loews properties have character but it helps to have a pedigree. They were smart enough to install this one in the landmarked PSFS building, the first international style skyscraper built in the U.S. 1200 Market St, tel. 215-627-1200, www.loewshotels.com
Hyatt Regency – On the waterfront in Society Hill, history’s stomping ground and the most beautiful part of Center City. 201 S. Columbus Blvd, tel. 215-928-1234, www.pennslandinghyatt.com
Where to Eat:
The Red Owl Tavern – Don’t be fooled by the name. This is one very sophisticated gastropub churning out great grillhouse specialties and serving truly inspired craft cocktails. Sit at the bar, order a “Living in the History” from Jess the barmaid and have the charcuterie plate. 433 Chestnut Street, 215-923-2267; www.redowltavern.com
Ela – The perfect spot to grab a cozy table and watch the world go by while savoring some of the most inventive food in Philly. Rising star chef Jason Cichonski channels a radical groove that still stays true to its American roots. Order the Lancaster chicken, simply the best! 627 South Third St., 267-687-8512, www.elaphilly.com
Buddakan – There’s a reason why people race to Stephen Starr’s restaurants. It’s called “fabulous.” This one set the standard. 325 Chestnut St, tel. 215-574-9440, www.buddakan.com
Bar Ferdinand – Their pitchers of sangria will bring a smile to your face and the tapas ain’t bad either. 1030 N 2nd St, tel. 215-923-1313, www.barferdinand.com
The Continental – You know those places that never let you down and the servers are awfully cute? This, a retro-hip Philly institution, is one of them. 138 Market St, tel. 215-923-6069, www.continentalmartinibar.com
Parc Brasserie – Bring the poodle and sit outside with a Kir Royale before Sunday brunch. People watching is an art, remember? 227 S 18th St, 215-545-2262, www.parc-restaurant.com
Honey’s Sit’n Eat – If you’re nursing a cold (or the worst hangover) Honey’s matzo ball soup should do the trick. Skip breakfast? No way! 800 N 4th St, tel. 215-925-1150, www.honeyssitneat.com
Pat’s Steaks – You’re in Philly. How long are you gonna wait to have a cheese steak? 1237 E Passyunk Ave, tel. 215-468-1546, www.patskingofsteaks.com
Where to Drink:
Franklin Mortgage – You can’t help but love the DNA and wildly creative cocktail menu at this center city barroom tricked out like a former pre-prohibition speakeasy. 112 S 18th St, tel. 267-467-3277, www.thefranklinbar.com
The Farmer’s Cabinet – It’s been a long day of sightseeing and you need liquid libations. This place has your back with awesome creations named from lines from Shakespeare’s plays, like their “Impudent Sauciness”. 1113 Walnut St, tel. 215-923-1113, www.thefarmerscabinet.com
Ladder 15– What does this converted fire house have in store after Happy Hour? Great pub food when you’ve had one too many Bluecoat Slings. 1528 Sansom St, num. 215-964-9755, www.ladder15philly.com
Varga Bar– There’s something about those pinup girls on the ceiling that makes you wanna just knock back another Miss September, their Asian Pear Margarita. 941 Spruce St, tel. 215-627-5200, www.vargabar.com
Good Dog Bar– Trying to brush up on your Philadelphia accent for a part in the revival of The Philadelphia Story? Do it here over endless Pepper Gibsons at $10 bucks a crack. Don’t even try Tracy. 224 S 15th St, tel. 215-985-9600, www.gooddogbar.com
Raven Lounge– A neighborhood haunt that’s a Philly favorite hosting a selection of music and comedy performances weekly. 1718 Sansom St, tel. 215-840-3577, www.ravenlounge.com
Where to Hang Out at Night:
The Time – The Time is a little bit of everything, and that’s a good thing – equal parts bar, lounge, restaurant and supper club. How this is all done seamlessly is anybody’s guess but the scene here is so relaxed you won’t think twice about ordering another craft beer and staying all night. The kitchen turns out amazing dishes like a Salmon Pho and Grilled Octopus and the drink list is endless. Save room for the ice cream pie for dessert. 1315 Sansom St., 215-985-4800; www.timerestaurant.net
Stratus Lounge – This sexy rooftop lounge is a destination spot with both indoor and outdoor seating, fabulous classic cocktails like “The Clover Club” and delicious thin crust pizzas, sliders and skewers. And did I mention the two private rooms, Mist and Vapor, available for trysting? Perfect your pose! 433 Chestnut Street, 215-925-2889; www.stratuslounge.com
700 Club – Remember when house was king? Guess what? It’s back. Get it here for free. 700 N 2nd St, tel. 215-413-3181, www.the700.org
Fluid – Set the standard for Philly clubbing with nightly underground parties featuring the best d.j’s playing it all. 613 S 4th St, tel. 215-629-3686, www.fluidnightclub.com
Medusa Lounge – Now you don’t have to look for the nightly basement dance party. It’s here and you’re invited. 27 S 21st St, tel. 215-557-1981, www.medusalounge.com
Rumor – A great spot to hit up if it’s your last night in town and you’re looking to go all out with your nightlife experience. 1500 Sansom St, tel. 215-988-0777, www.rumorphilly.com
Silk City – A beer garden that opens every spring makes this the sudsiest party in town. 435 Spring Garden St, tel. 215-592-8838, www.silkcityphilly.com
Bob and Barbara’s– Every town’s got a good dive bar but this one’s got soul with live jazz on the weekends and a Thursday night drag show. Go easy on the Happy Meals, the house’s signature drink, a shot of Jim Beam and a can of Pabst Blue Ribbon Beer. 1509 South St, tel. 215-545-4511, www.visitphilly.com/nightlife
What to See and Do:
Elfreth’s Alley – The oldest residential street in the country and you can even drive down it. On Fete Day, June 3 and 4th, you can peek inside the tiny homes. www.visitphilly.com
Betsy Ross House – Legend has it Betsy sewed Old Glory here. She’s buried in the courtyard. 239 Arch St, tel. 215-629-4026, www.visitphilly.com
Independence Hall – Don’t miss Philly’s centerpiece, the Liberty Bell’s original home. Then head across the street to see the crack. 320 Chestnut St, tel. 215-925-0167, www.visitphilly.com
The Barnes Foundation – A testament to one man’s greatness in the field of collecting. The most dazzling display of impressionist works, ever. 2025 Benjamin Franklin Parkway, 215-278-7000; www.barnesfoundation.org
Museum of Art – Rocky made its ornate exterior world famous but what’s inside put it on the map. Head straight for the Duchamps, Dali and Man Ray collections. 26th St Benjamin Franklin Pkwy, tel. 215-763-8100, www.philamuseum.org
Eastern State Penitentiary – You know you want to see Al Capone’s cell. Almost as good as San Francisco’s Alcatraz. 2027 Fairmount Ave, tel. 215-236-5111, www.visitphilly.com
Reading Terminal Market – The nation’s oldest farmers’ market. Foodies, this is your temple. 51 N 12th St, 215-922-2317, www.visitphilly.com
Northern Liberties – No trip to Philly is complete without a visit to one of the “hoods.” This one’s still buzzing after dark. www.atthepiazza.com
The Annual Mummer’s Parade – if you’re lucky enough to be here on New Year’s Day, your fate is sealed. Bring the hangover kit. www.visitphilly.com/events
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