Providence, Rhode Island

PROVIDENCE – less is more!

A Round-Up of the City’s Best

Your mom always said that first impressions count.   When I hailed a taxi at Amtrak’s Providence, R.I. station the striking neoclassical dome of the State House beckoned in the night sky.  Would the smallest state’s “creative capital” (as it’s billed) meet my expectations?

As a kid I loved Rhode Island.  It was a pea-sized piece in my big, wooden jigsaw puzzle of the United States and was forever disappearing.  Since it was the key to finishing the puzzle I always wondered where to keep it.  I wasn’t sure why it was called an island but I was glad when it found its place.  Here I was in this historic city just for the weekend and I wanted to learn how the capital earned its billing.  My goal was to spend as much time with the residents, artists, shop and gallery owners to discover their vibe.

“If you’d come to Providence in the 1980’s you would have found a ghost town.”  I’d noticed a few rundown buildings in and around downtown and Lucy Searle’s words struck a chord.  As development manager of AS220, a community arts space and a kind of new age real estate redevelopment organization, Lucy is known for helping to revitalize what’s classified as the downtown arts district.  Giving new life to old buildings is a painstaking process requiring a collaboration of the artistic community, civic leaders and local builders.  Thanks to people like Lucy the wrecking ball is at bay and a sensitive facelift of the district is ongoing.    Add the presence of the students and faculties of both Brown and Johnson & Wales Universities plus the famous Rhode Island School of Design and it’s easy to understand how Providence can blend an artsy culture with state of the art tourist attractions.  Surprisingly, there was a lot to see and do.  Here’s a roundup.

Splurge for the weekend by checking into a junior suite at the Biltmore, one of the Historic Hotels of America.  Their cushy guest accommodations overlook Kennedy Plaza with terrific scenic views.  As soon as you’re settled, head straight to the Red Door Spa in the hotel.  You’ll need some extra energy in the next 48 hours and their 50 minute Signature massage will rid fatigue and get you prepped for the weekend.  Follow it with a phyto organic rescue facial so you can dazzle the new friends you’ll be making at happy hour.  The Red Door’s reputation is top notch and their spa menu is inventive.

Once you drag yourself away from paradise there’s no need to go far for happy hour.  Hustle across the square to “Union Station” and don’t let the chain-restaurant sounding name deter you.  A micro brewery that doubles as a burger joint, their beer could send the Germans back to the drawing board and the burgers are better than yours at your Independence Day barbecue.  The after-work crowd on Friday is feisty and the place has a pubby atmosphere with the beer taking center stage.  Start out with John Harvard’s Pale Ale, after all, you gotta drink beer here and this one may get you talking to folks.  Providencians love to offer their take on the city’s nuances and who knows what you’ll find out that might be useful.  Segue to their All American Light Lager and stay with this easy drinking beer until you’re ready to rock outa there at which time I suggest you prepare for your exit with their Old Willy India Pale Ale.  This ale has a kick and will help you sail on to dinner.

You’re buzzed.  You need a power meal at a power spot and Fleming’s is it.  Just a short walk to the Westin’s entrance is a world away from the norm for a hotel restaurant.  You’re whisked into a dark, expansive space which at first glance could be a swanky men’s club.  The dining room is softly lit with retro modern lighting punctuated by artistic flourishes dotting the patterned walls surrounding the columns.  Couples are sitting very close and a gleaming glass and steel open kitchen reminds you that this is not your dad’s steakhouse.   Order the lobster tempura while you wait for the double lamb chops that you will never forget.  Leave here pumped and primed for adventure at the State Lounge.

State Lounge bills itself as a VIP haven and invites you to “feel the rhythm of life.”  Settle in but take it easy, you’ve got an early start tomorrow on the “Hill” as it’s known in town.  Their cocktail menu takes inspiration from South Beach mixology and after a couple of their signature State martinis made with St. Germaine and fresh pair juice, you’ll be primed to meet some of the “classiest, sexiest people in Rhode Island.”  Or maybe just one?  Stay there until the love light shines and who knows maybe you’ll be doing the tango by evening’s end.

I admit it.  I love Italian food but I wasn’t thinking about it for breakfast … at least not until I met Cindy Salvato.   Cindy is the duchess of Federal Hill, an old-world Italian neighborhood that is the soul of Providence.  This is her beat and Cindy feels its pulse on weekends giving exclusive behind the scenes tours.  Cindy will meet you for a morning cappuccino on DiPasquale Square not far from the landmark La Pigna arch over Atwells Avenue.  Although usually mistaken for a pineapple, it’s a symbol of abundance and quality, like all the Italian delicacies you’ll be trying with her here in this neighborhood brimming with purveyors of mouth watering specialties.  Grab your coffee and walk over to Scialo Brothers  Bakery where their cappuccino walnut cake will bring you to your knees.  Although you’ve put the cart before the horse so to speak, Cindy will then lead you through a maze of food vendors  hawking cheeses of every variety as well as olives, antipasto, fresh ravioli and of course vino.  The two hour tour reaches its’ apex at Venda Ravioli, where you’ll understand the real meaning of “mangia.”  Savor the tastes and save room for lunch.

Would it be Saturday without a little shopping?  Hop a taxi over to Providence Place for the quintessential mall crawl with over 170 shops.  Pick up a new pair of jeans at Lucky or something trendy at H&M.  Run into Aveda for a little Saturday night grooming assist before heading down to Fire & Ice on the street level for a lunch bite.  Order up some sliders with spicy “Fire-fries” and wash it down with their Fire Ice T, infused with their own blueberry lemon tequila!  You can’t beat a mall to bring you back to reality hence the tequila – it’ll numb the pain.   Afterward, you should need to exercise a flight of fancy.  Detour to Heir, the chic little outpost of Tyler Doran.  Tyler’s got an eye for curios and his shop is filled with art, antiques and what he calls “covetable goods.”  His skill for creating evocative interiors is obvious here where your eyes will feast on his curious tableaux and aesthetic oddities.  Leave with an expanded vision for your own space and one of his signature t-shirts, true conversation pieces.  The well of creativity at Heir sets the stage for the awesome impact of the RISD Museum, where the permanent collection will give you goose bumps.  Never have I seen such a mass of decorative arts, paintings, drawings, sculptures and fashion designs displayed “ensuite”, one setting off the other.  You’ll need at least two hours here which may not even cover the current exhibitions.  On your way out, find the ultimate souvenir in the risd/works store, a treasure trove of inventive merchandising.

You’d better take a cat nap at the hotel before your night on the town.  Dinner at Camille’s on Federal Hill is the prelude to a little Saturday night drama.  After all, having only had a taste of the Hill’s Italian fare you really owe it to yourself to experience the real deal.   Camille’s status is legendary in Providence since 1914 and it’s the place to be seen and a hub of culinary creativity.  Set in a landmark mansion, the old-world ambience is a fitting backdrop for the amazing Italian food, superb wines and impeccable service.

You may have prepped for drama, but real creative genes are on display at the Trinity Repertory Company, the linchpin of the A&E district and a must do.  Located in a historic building which was formerly the Majestic Theater, it has been inspiring audiences for over three generations, mounting 57 world premieres in its 45 year history.  Its’ actors make up the last permanent resident acting company in the U.S. and it has been awarded Outstanding Regional Theater.  I was lucky enough to see The Odd Couple the weekend I was there.   In that production Oscar and Felix were played by two actors who had known each other for 25 years.  As I eavesdropped at intermission, I discovered that some of the company have been with Trinity over a decade and the crowd reveled in listing their favorites.  To say that their work is memorable is an understatement and on Saturday night you get a chance to see the creative nexus of Providence in action.

Why not let loose after the show?  Olive’s is Providence’s hottest upcale nightspot and for good reason.  A mahogany bar runs the length of the interior and there the master mixologists create magic.  Their martini menu boasts 95 original selections!  Live music on the weekends with local bands like Sugar and Those Guys bring down the house and their DJ’s pull equal weight spinning a mixture of house and classic dance tracks.  Settle in with one of their watermelon martinis and get a groove going.  The place goes until 2 am and remember the goal is to be invited back to Providence with an eye on seeing Newport.

You may feel a little blue Sunday morning winding down your last hours in town.  Downcity’s drag brunch is the cure and is sure to lift your spirits, expand your consciousness and, well, I’ll leave the rest to your imagination.  Hosted by Miss Jacquelyn DeMira and friends and only held on the third Sunday of the month, this party’s hearty till 3 pm.  Check the calendar before planning your weekend as it’s impossible to fathom the ultimate in creative drag while chowing down on their Florentine Benedict with wicked bloodys to boot.

With the clock now ticking perhaps your choice is to reflect and recharge with a peaceful walk along the river and over the bridge to the Providence Athenaeum on history laden Benefit Street.  Part of the history of the city, this Greek Revival architectural gem is more than just a place for books but a peaceful enclave of culture and ideas with a pedigree, noted for shaping America itself.  Spend your last minutes communing with history among the intimate culs- de-sac of bound paper and channel the transcendental power of the best literature in the world.  Your own creative juices have no doubt been brewing all weekend and if nothing else you’ve conjured up a plan to return to this city whose moniker is not only well-earned but always expanding into new territory.

Providence is a city with a wow factor that lives up to its title and its size only makes it easier to take it all in with little more than 48 hours to spare.