Restaurant Dwars, Amsterdam

Snuggled in between well-known beer producers, Belgium and Germany, The Netherlands isn’t acknowledged often enough for its contributions to the beer scene.

Of course Amsterdam based Heineken is well known and wildly popular, but there are a number of craft breweries worthy of a taste.   And in Amsterdam’s Jordaan neighborhood, there is a charming restaurant where those locally brewed artisanal beers take the spotlight as they are paired with exceptional locally sourced cuisine.  Forget food and wine pairings, at Restaurant Dwars it’s all about the beer.

Once a working-class neighborhood, Jordaan has been revitalized and is considered an oasis of peace away from the hustle and bustle of Amsterdam.  Amid the labyrinth of narrow streets, small canals, courtyards and art studios, Restaurant Dwars is tucked into a 17^th-century building.  Cozy and unassuming, the restaurant’s walls are adorned with historic black and white photographs of the neighborhood.  It is the kind of place you happen to find on a leisurely stroll and desperately try to keep it a secret so it won’t be discovered by the throngs of tourists elsewhere in town.

Restaurant Dwars is the brainchild of Chef-owner Jo Vassen.  Like the beer, all foods are locally sourced.  You won’t find anything in this establishment from anywhere outside of The Netherlands.  It is Holland pride through and through – and for good reason.

The menu changes seasonally to ensure only the freshest ingredients are used.  If you want to find Chef Vassen on a Saturday, head to the nearby farmers market, Noordermarkt where he buys his fish, produce and the best organic cheeses available.    Three to five course prix fixe menus are available using fresh fish, organic meats like lamb or wild boar and home-grown vegetables and fruits.  I was fortunate enough to dine at Restaurant Dwars during white asparagus season – my new favorite vegetable.   Vegetarian and gluten free menus are also available.

As a wine drinker, I admit I was skeptical about beer and food pairings.  How could beer possibly be matched up with gourmet cuisine?   For starters, the beer is served in wine goblets to showcase the color, aroma and taste.   (It looks prettier too!)  Chef Vassen chose two beers for each course.  He suggested I taste the beer, taste the dish and then taste the beer again.   I was amazed at the difference in the flavor of the beer after I tasted the food.

Dining on three courses of extraordinary cuisine without having a drop of wine was a first for me.  But, now I’m a believer.

Dining at Restarant Dwars is not just about the food and beer.  Chef Vassen and his wife, Ingrid, have chosen their restaurant staff carefully.   Staff members don’t just memorize the beer pairings, they learn the reasons behind the choices Chef Vassen makes.  Understanding why a particular pairing is suggested aids the employees in communicating with the guests.   Chef Vassen also believes hospitability is just as important as the food.   “We want our guests to feel welcome and treasure the experience,” he says.  I know I did.

Sustainability is the central theme of Restaurant Dwars and it is a theme that extends beyond the walls of this charming eatery.  Outside you won’t find any cars belonging to staff members – everyone either rides a bicycle or takes public transportation to work.   Now that’s cool.