With a warm, dimly lit dining room that hums with the comfortable lull of hushed conversation, you’d half expect Restaurant Nora to be situated on a winding country lane.
But this sophisticated yet cozy atmosphere is right in the heart of D.C.’s Dupont Circle. Nora’s 40-year collection of geometric Amish quilts brightens the walls and high above, ceiling decorations reminiscent of a children’s bedroom in a Victorian home – a wooden model airplane, a country-cosmic solar system – fill the empty spaces. Starched white tablecloths, dark Windsor chairs and tiny flickering lamps complete the picture. A perfect romantic environment for Valentine’s Day? You guessed it.
From the menus printed on 100 percent recycled paper to the thrice-filtered drinking water on the table, Restaurant Nora is resolutely dedicated to sustainability. Nora even uses 100 percent wind power purchased from Direct Energy to power the place.
Nora Pouillon, the founder, owner, and executive chef, is an incredibly accomplished woman. Born in Vienna, Austria, she moved to the U.S. in the late 1960s and opened Restaurant Nora in 1979. In 1999, Restaurant Nora became the first certified organic restaurant in the United States, with over 95 percent of the menu’s ingredients supplied by nearby certified organic and biodynamic growers and producers. Nora initiated Washington, D.C.’s first ever producer-only farmer’s market (FRESHFARM Markets), and was one of the first to popularize the farm-to-table movement. She has won many culinary awards, including The Genesis Award from Women Chefs and Restaurateurs. She sits on the board for a number of sustainability organizations, and is the author of a soon-to-be-released memoir, entitled, My Organic Life: How a Pioneering Chef Helped Shape the Way We Eat Today (Random House).
It’s no surprise then that we were eagerly anticipating our meal and began with a well-balanced specialty cocktail, the Fiscal Cliff, mixed with Rowan’s Creek Bourbon, cider, Vya sweet vermouth and rhubarb bitters. All of the specialty drinks incorporate vermouth; however, if you’re not a fan you can seek comfort in knowing that Nora’s bartenders have also mastered classic cocktails, like their much smoother Cosmopolitan.
For starters we shared three small dishes – a Broccoli Parmesan Soup with Crispy Onions and Grated Parmesan was not quite hot enough, yet didn’t disappoint. The base was light and airy and the onions added a nice burst of flavor which complemented the smooth texture. Next came a Roasted Red & Yellow Beet Salad with Goat Cheese, Citrus, and Pomegranate Vinaigrette, beautifully presented, with the beets in perfect, colorful cubes. Slices of blood orange played wonderfully off the earthy beet flavor and worked seamlessly with the berry-like vinaigrette drizzle, full of flavor.
My favorite starter was the Seared Rhode Island Calamari with Celery Cucumber Radish Salad and Scallion Cilantro Aioli. Thick slices of seared squid melted in our mouths, while a slow burn built up in the back of the mouth delivering a spicy kick. This dish was remarkable— its unique spice achieved with an infusion of gochujang, a fermented red pepper paste from Korea, Sambal hot red pepper paste, and Sriracha. To balance the unique spices, the dish was served with a cooling pickled salad consisting of radish, onion, carrot, red, yellow and green peppers, and celery.
Consistent with the restaurant’s farm-fresh ideology, the chicken and veal come from an Amish farm in Pennsylvania. The Pan Seared Chicken Breast with Spinach and Goat Cheese Stuffing was served with carrots, rye berry pilaf, and thyme jus. Succulent and tender, the chicken was crisp, with a bit of a crunch, and the natural juices sealed in. A soy-like taste added a nice tang to the meat while the sides were done perfectly.
The second dish was an excellent house-made Spinach Gnocchi with mushrooms, spinach, butternut squash and red onion. The vegetable combo harmonized perfectly into a delightfully savory treat of an almost scientific perfection. A lemon olive oil dressing kept the dish light—especially light for gnocchi—and the pasta was topped with a touch of crunchy Himalayan salt and fresh Parmesan.
Of the desserts, none were overbearingly sweet. Tiramisu was practically airy while an Apple Cranberry pie was a nice take on traditional comfort food. And, naturally, Nora’s Chocolate Mousse Cake was to die for – rich and bitter, with a dark chocolate base.
As we finished our meal, I scanned the patrons dining nearby – a couple of families with well behaved kids, some lovers on romantic dates, an adult birthday celebration, and two business meetings. Before we left, our server pointed to the table behind us and informed us it was Bill Clinton’s favorite. One look at the menu’s mantra “Believing in Organic and Biodynamic,” and I imagine Al Gore might have a favorite seat as well.