Saba: Unspoiled Caribbean Hideaway
After years spent admiring the Saba’s mystic, cloud-covered mountain from afar, I thought it was time to visit this tiny island. I knew little about it, except for what I had read in some of St Maarten/St Martin’s tourist guides—the island was known for eco-tourism, offered great dive sites, had just a few scattered hotels and restaurants, was sparsely populated, and was the ultimate volcanic mountain, with only the peak and the crater visible above the sea.
The flight into Saba was as breathtaking as the island itself. The short commercial strip is surrounded on three sides by ocean and cliffs, and the approach rouses the same adrenaline-pumping feelings as a scary carnival ride. The plane literally floats over water, skimming the rocky mountainside as it descends. Like a magnet grabbing a piece of metal, the runway magically draws the little bush plane to the tarmac. Passengers see a soaring peak that ascends straight up 3000 feet from the sea, resting on a 2,000-foot base anchored to the ocean floor. Then it hits you that this is the most extraordinary island in the Caribbean…Saba, the Unspoiled Queen.
Oozing with old-world Caribbean charm, Saba is a tiny five-square-mile oasis. Much of the island is a rainforest with Jurassic-sized foliage, and every exotic flower you can imagine. Unlike the crazy quilt of housing seen on other islands, Saba has a strict architectural code, so every cottage and home reflects a sort of Heidi-meets-the-Caribe vernacular. Buildings are whitewashed wood and cement, or constructed of native stone accented with red, green or black shutters and gingerbread trim. A few homes are Zen-like structures that blend inconspicuously into the forest and mountainside. Views are stunning in every direction, with endless expanses of ocean and glimpses of outer islands. Even the local school sits on a high promontory that juts into the sea.
After landing, venture out to find a taxi. All of the taxi drivers are friendly, speak excellent English, and know the island well—no wonder, since there are only 1500 inhabitants. There is good reason to hire a taxi driver here. Visitors would have to be nuts to rent a car, since driving on the island’s roller-coaster roads can be quite an experience for the uninitiated. Check out www.jumbiedesign.com for a breathtaking virtual tour of Saba’s winding roads.
European engineers declared Saba to be “unbuildable” due to its hilly landscape. It took a visionary Saban, Josephus Lambert Hassell, to mastermind The Road. He completed an engineering correspondence course and, with a local crew, built the island’s main thoroughfare in 1951. A drive on it requires nerves and legs of steel to pump the brake up and down steep roads. The Road runs through the mountains and towns of Saba, including the Bottom, Windwardside, and the villages of Hell’s Gate and Troy Hill. Before The Road, everything was hauled up the mountains by manpower and donkey power. It’s no surprise that Sabans tend to be fit and slim.
Saba is an easy day trip from St Maarten’s Princess Juliana International Airport (WinAir has several flights a day). But to really experience the flavor of the island, spend a night or two, especially if you like to dive or hike. Saba is considered one of the world’s best dive spots, and the hiking trails are excellent, ranging from moderate to “you better be in amazing shape.” Mount Scenery, one of Saba’s exquisite hiking spots, offers amazing views. Most hiking trails were once old stone roads that were abandoned when The Road was finished. For trail information, drop by the Saba Trail Shop.
For diving, there are several local dive companies: Sea Saba, Saba Deep, and Saba Divers. A number of the hotels have special dive packages that include accommodations and meals.
Accommodations on the island range from simple to luxurious. At Queens Garden Resort, several suites have huge windows that open to the elements, plus a hot tub nestled in a private, raised room that overlooks lush gardens. Queen’s Garden also has an excellent restaurant and is a picturesque place for a wedding and honeymoon. In Windwardside, where you’ll find most of the island’s nightlife, there are several nice hotels, including Juliana’s, a charming, comfortable place where the young owners have two large, friendly white Labs. Juliana’s restaurant, Tropics, offers casual dining for breakfast and lunch. Hibiscus, a private restored Saban cottage, is within walking distance of restaurants, shops, and nightspots, and has the honor of being about the only place on Saba with air conditioning in the bedrooms, definitely a blessing on those rare hot, humid August nights.
There are limited options for dining out, but nearly all offer a wonderful experience. At Brigadoon, delicious food is beautifully presented, the wine list is just right, and the atmosphere is warm and welcoming. My Kitchen serves great food in a charming old stone building. Diners need a flashlight for the 10-minute walk to the Rainforest Restaurant at Eco-Lodge, but it’s worth the effort for Indonesian ristaffal, the once-a-week special. For an authentic island experience, try Swinging Door’s barbeque on Friday nights. Locals cue up for the $10 plate filled with tasty barbeque and mouthwatering potato salad. Then head over to Scout’s Place for Saba-oke, the island’s version of karaoke. Scout’s Place is also a quaint hotel and dive center with a restaurant offering fabulous views. Other great places to eat include the Gate House in Hell’s Gate—the French owners serve food that receives rave reviews.
For such a small place, Saba is rich with culture. Explore its history at the Harry L. Johnson Museum, a restored local cottage that offers a closer look at what life was like on the island a hundred years ago. Visit the Catholic Church in the Bottom to see artist Helen Corbett’s magical version of the Sistine Chapel, where each angel is modeled after a Saban child. Helen’s artwork is sold at Tropics restaurant and also at a gallery in Windwardside.
If shopping is a passion, pick up a piece of Saba lace, a specialty from Venezuela brought to the island by Gertrude Johnson, or a bottle of Saba Spice liquor. Both are handmade by local women. Everyone on the island knows a lace maker, so just ask. Another unusual gift idea can be found at JoBean’s studio in Troy Hill, where lovely handcrafted glass jewelry and decorative art are truly one-of-a-kind.
If you fall in love with Saba, consider buying a home or a piece of land. The island won’t be a best-kept secret for much longer. Two excellent sources for real estate are Marlena McGrath of Saba Island Realty and Michael Deher of Remax Island properties, which is based in St Maarten. Both understand what appeals to discerning buyers.
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Where to Stay:
Hibiscus Cottage; (800) 786-2784
Juliana’s; Windwardside; (888) 289-5708; www.julianas-hotel.com
Queen’s Garden Resort; Troy Hill; 416-3494; www.queensaba.com
Where to Eat:
Brigadoon; Windwardside; 416-2380
Gate House Café; Hell’s Gate; 416-2416
My Kitchen; Windwardside; 416-2539
Rainforest Restaurant; Windwardside; 416-3888
Swinging Doors; Windwardside; 416-2506
What to See:
The Harry L. Johnson Museum; Windwardside.
Mount Scenery Hiking; Contact the Saba Trail Shop in Windwardside; 416-2246
A Must: Diving in Saba!
Saba Divers; Windwardside; 416-2740; www.sabadivers.com
Sea Saba; Windwarside; 416-2246; www.seasaba.com
Saba Deep; Fort Bay; 416-3347; www.sabadeep.com