The Setai brand is known for turning heads when it comes to hospitality and in that sense singlehandedly brought a sense of refinement when they arrived on Miami’s South Beach scene some 10 years ago. One of the last of a series of new construction projects along the famous white sand beach the results matched everyone’s expectations. A stunning 40 story glass tower was built and united with the original 1936 landmark structure, the former Dempsey Vanderbilt Hotel. The result was visionary, its design combining the fluid tropical deco architecture of the neighborhood with an Asian aesthetic, the Setai’s singular DNA. We’re talking more than Chinese lanterns here, expect reclining Buddhas by the (3) pools and pared down uber-luxe furnishings and accoutrements throughout. Let’s just say that Mr. Armani would be very happy here and so would you. The property set the bar for everything afterward which is still being mined to this day, South Beach having a plentiful supply of landmark resort buildings waiting for a little “TLC” and an investor with deep pockets. But The Setai, however, still manages to set itself apart amid the fray.
Enter The Setai Grill, tucked discretely behind a maze of public spaces off the lobby and before one reaches the maniacally beautiful pools. This is a dark and sexy library like space, perfect for trysting with your favorite intellectual carnivore. Girls, it’s time to feed that man of yours so he’s happy and what man doesn’t like steak? The Setai Grill is not only a tribute to classic American butchery but also offers a taste of Europe, the Executive Chef being Mathias Gervais, who cut his teeth in quite a few French culinary temples and is accompanied here by Chef de Cuisine Thomas Griese, the two brilliant collaborators having a combined work experience at seven Michelin starred restaurants. Their idea is to stun guests with a menu composed of rich cattle cuts, southern European dishes, seasonal ingredients and a who’s who of celebrated purveyors to accomplish all of this beautifully.
But first let’s focus on the beef, ok? Steaks from New York’s Pat La Frieda & Sons, one of the finest “meat men” in the country and custom cut to the restaurant’s specs, are dry aged for 30 days and offer the pièce de résistance on the abundant menu. Each cut is accompanied by one of the house made sauces like a classic Bordelaise and complemented by various side dishes, the kind you dig into first, like a Potatoes Gratin Dauphinois and a Provencale Bayaldi, a kind of ratatouille of layered eggplant, zucchini and tomatoes. These pay homage to Gervais’ childhood memories from France but are just the tip of the iceberg. The chef has taken the liberty of including additional signature French dishes like Blanquette de Veau and Monkfish a la Provencale to drive home the point that this is as far from Smith & Wollensky as it gets. These menu items are a viable option to a meat and potatoes meal which we all know never loses interest but here they tell a kind of story through the combination of flavors and ingredients. Items like a Foie Gras Torchon, cured in house and sous vide to preserve its delicate richness emphasize the chef’s French techniques. It’s all about heritage here at The Setai Grill but it’s also a very smart move for luring guests night after night.
Hakan, our sensitive maître’d, suggested we start with oysters and a glass of Laurent Perrier Rosé champagne which we were hard pressed to refuse. Something about bivalves with bubbles just doesn’t disappoint. If you’re a fan of caviar like me you won’t want to miss the house’s signature Le Caviar, layers of colossal Florida Stone Crab and crème fraîche and an ounce of Caspian Sevruga served with blinis. Pair it with chilly Chablis. We came for the cuts and chose the signature Setai Tomahawk Bone-In (32 oz.) steak with a Morels sauce, the succulent meat falling off the bone and the morels mushrooms providing that essential complement to the beef. Let’s just say that you won’t be disappointed. An endless selection of sides was a difficult choice especially since there are no less than 6 kinds of potatoes. A perfect Bordeaux chosen by Daniel Toral, the Setai’s expert sommelier made us sit back, relax and enjoy the elegant surroundings while contemplating dessert. And don’t even think about skipping the sweet finale. You haven’t lived until you’ve tried pastry chef Sylvain Marrari’s Classic Valrhona Chocolate Mousse Cake with chocolate puree, said to be a special memory of his childhood.
The Setai Grill’s simple artisanal philosophy executed in a rarefied atmosphere of refinement is poised to make a big splash on Miami’s culinary scene. If you’re craving a little coddling and love fine dining, this should be your new temple.
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