The Idiot, St. Petersburg

A hush falls over The Idiot as you enter.  It’s as if Dostoevsky himself was writing in the corner. That wouldn’t be much of a surprise as the warm, cozy atmosphere is perfect for tinkling with your latest poem or perhaps that song you’re writing. Soft music and a Zen environment right out of the 19^th century inspires a little creative reflection or snuggling up with someone special depending on the weather in St. Petersburg.  We suggest you give in to your emotions here, it’s almost expected and no one will even notice.

The café and restaurant named after the famous novel by the even more famous Russian writer typifies the intellectual mood of Russia’s second city. Cushy comfortable sofas and chairs, antique furnishings, faux gas lamps and vintage typewriters adorn the many rooms which are more like the Bohemian salons of czarist Russia.  The setting encourages the creative in everyone and attracts an artsy crowd which is no surprise. But the food is memorable too, especially as many of the standard Russian dishes seem to vary so greatly from place to place.

We took a seat at a table fashioned over a large Singer sewing machine and began with a basket of bread served with 3 kinds of butter and a complimentary vodka shot (the prevailing practice in many of the restaurants here).  It was welcomed as the biting wind blowing off the nearby canal and the constant drizzle had chilled us to the bone. And who can argue with a shot of vodka in Russia, anyway? A terrific potato pie with onion and sour cream was a perfect starter followed by a yummy salmon pelmeni, a Russian dumpling dish that’s not unlike wontons and served with a mushroom sauce. Our server slyly observed us mopping up the morsels and figured we were starved artists perhaps.  Another vodka, maybe?  Why not?  I mean I still had that last stanza to write and I’d be inspired by the heritage of the surroundings, huh?  Just kidding!

Farmers Cheese Fried Cakes

But inspired I was all the same. I wanted more of the sublime tastes of Russia and I wanted to read a Dostoyevsky novel.  But first a Stuffed Trout with leeks and paprika served with grilled cherry tomatoes and a terrific Beef Stroganoff, a dish that typifies imperial Russia and one that has made its way all around the world, too, here served the traditional way with (mashed) potatoes rather than noodles or rice.  No complaints.

Still trying to drink in the profound atmosphere, we couldn’t resist ordering a round of cocktails after dinner, aptly, a couple of their signature Crime & Punishments, a devilish blend of vodka, white vermouth, cognac and champagne.  It was still pouring outside and let’s just say that there’s a proliferation of personal effects scattered all over The Idiot that has to be discovered. Sip slowly, gaze at the paintings, study that antique clock and give this place your personal attention. It will place you squarely in a time frame perfect for understanding the wealth of history and culture in and around St. Petersburg.  And Mr. Dostoyevsky’s spirit will be pleased, of course.

Perhaps due to its pedigree and the cinematic surroundings, I left The Idiot thinking what a great place it would be for a party or celebratory affair, even a small wedding reception what with the romantic décor. That said, the kitchen will devise a special menu serving from 12 to 60 people and specializes in classical banquets in a private room for 10 to 25 guests.