96 Hours in Japan

Japan remains for me “the trip of a lifetime” and even though I am there frequently, its magic makes each visit memorable and instructive.  I learn something new every time.

On a personal level, my time there has led me to think more about the group than myself; to be of the moment rather than preoccupied with the past or future plans; to avoid conflict; not to show emotion publicly unless driven to it; to work on self-control and discipline; and to try to observe rather than participate.

Of late, I’ve found myself in Japan for very brief stays, enroute to Southeast Asia.  I take the time to transition to another continent and the massive twelve to thirteen hour time difference between the East coast of the US, where I ‘m based, and the other side of the world.

How do you make the most of your time in Japan in just four days? Although the dollar to yen exchange is brutal, with one dollar buying less than eighty yen, the good news – the only good news – is that it’s still possible to find affordable experiences there and the value of what you end up buying is extraordinary. Start out in Tokyo, of course.

Luxury hotels are aplenty, and while the price tags may seem daunting at first, the service, the accommodations, the beautiful breakfasts, the great bars and the fitness centers make it worthwhile.  Plus, if you are member of any hotel program – Hyatt, Hilton, or Starwood – you may find that you have enough points for a free room.  Also, remember this:  Japan is in a major recession.  If you call the hotel and ask for a better rate, you might get one.  Mom was right. It doesn’t hurt to ask.

All that said, one of my favorite city hotels in the world is the Park Hyatt Tokyo.  The hotel that starred in “Lost in Translation,” this property is cool and elegant, with astonishing views, especially at night when red lights are twinkling below and there’s a great swimming pool and spa as well. Service here is Californian in style and deeply anticipatory.  The one drawback to the property is its distance from downtown areas like Ginza and Nihonbashi; the subway and JR trains are close by but the trip takes close to an hour.

 

If you prefer to be closer to the action, two great options are The Conrad and The Peninsula. The Conrad has spectacular views of the deep Tokyo harbor and a bar with high ceilings that is magnificent. The Peninsula is well-situated by the Imperial Palace and within walking distance of Ginza’s main shopping streets. OK, you’ve got into your room, showered, changed out of the clothes you’ve been in for the past 18 hours of flying and now it’s time to eat.

First, I would go to Sora, the new sushi bar at The Mandarin Oriental.  Located on the 37th floor, the vibe here is elegant and the fish perfectly sliced and served in a small, spare setting high above the city.  A cold draft and bite after bite of the freshest fish I’ve ever tasted, and I’m good to go.

To sleep, that is.

After thirty-six hours of traveling, I want to go back to my room and sleep.

Start the next morning with a run at the fitness center of any of the three hotels.  Follow that with a triumphant, celebratory breakfast at the buffets:  delicious eggs from free range chickens.  Don’t forget to ask for crispy bacon. Tokyo is easy to explore as long as you choose one or two areas and stick to them. The world’s best shopping, bar none, is in Ginza.  Inside the massive department stores – whose customers look like models and move like celebrities in a casual, breezy, look at me way – are food courts with delicacies that are half the price of the city’s restaurants and often twice as good.  If you want to see a little of the old Japan, go to Nihonbashi where you’ll find classic tea shops, paper shops, and shops selling fans, chopsticks, or beautiful cottons. Tired of shopping?  Stroll in the parks.  Ueno or Yoyogi are filled with tree shaded paths offering a great respite from the city.

By now, I hope, you’re hungry again.

One of my favorite restaurants in Tokyo is Tatsumi, which specializes in one thing and only one thing like many restaurants in Japan.  Some serve only chicken or beef or soba or tempura, etc. but Tatsumi  is all about unagi – exquisitely fresh river eel grilled and served over rice.  Simply delicious.  It was a favorite of John and Yoko’s.

Spending two days in Tokyo provides a good introduction to this faraway, yet strangely familiar culture.  Strangely familiar because Japan adopted Western traditions, en masse, about 150 years ago, and the institutions, many words, clothing and personal styles are a lot like what you have in New York City  but with refinement and uniquely Japanese interpretations.  It can be overwhelming at times and, indeed, you may feel lost.

So, head to the mountains.

Just over an hour from Tokyo is Karuizawa, a mountaintop village in the prefecture of Nagano, so peaceful and evocative you may not want to return to Tokyo for some time.  I didn’t. A huge part of wanting to linger was being an invited guest at Hoshinoya.  This property, built over an old ryokan or inn, is the epitome of elegance.  Each of the rooms is built like a villa, surrounded by forest, beside a river and ponds and adjacent to a splendid library.  You put on an outfit that looks like pajamas or a yukata (robe) and for the length of your stay you take strolls, go to the onsen (hot baths), nap, and eat amazing Japanese or French food.  When I was there I thought of the novel, The Magic Mountain, and how the residents never wanted to go back down the mountain.  I felt that way, too, and when I finally had to board the train back to Tokyo, I promised that the next time I was in Japan it would be 72 hours in Karuizawa rather than 48.