As summer merged into a chilly fall, we desperately were needing an escape and chose a luxury oceanside getaway in the coastal village of Watch Hill, Rhode Island.
Built in 1868 on the bluffs overlooking the ocean, Ocean House was once the darling of this resort community in the 1920’s and through many successive generations. Over the years, it had become dilapidated, utilizing just two floors of its expansive yellow and white wood frame structure. In tandem with the Rhode Island Historical Society, the Royce Organization headed by Charles Royce along with concerned citizens of the community, engaged in a seven-year $149 million meticulous reconstruction to bring back the glory of the resort, the last of eight which had brought well-to-do vacationers to Watch Hill for months at a time. Reopened three and a half years ago, the new Ocean House, now a proud five diamond Relais and Châteaux member and the only Forbes five star and AAA Five Diamond Hotel in Rhode Island, was restored using the same footprint as the original.
Today’s version conveys the sense of a grand hotel of a different era that encourages respite and indulgence but the appointments are decidedly 21st century. Utilizing the original but restored reception desk, elevator cab, lobby fireplace, moldings and artifacts, much of the hotel looks as it had in the past. But today it’s airy and bright with inviting lounging spaces, overstuffed chairs, a grand piano, high ceilings and 247 windows.
The 49 guest rooms are each individually decorated with historical photos and original lithographs. Baths, sleeping and sitting areas are luxe and comfortable. Terraced oceanfront rooms access the waves crashing on the rocks. Public areas are lined with prints and paintings from Mr. Royce’s personal collection that includes several original Ludwig Bemelmans (sourced from outside Paris and carefully restored in New York City) as well as heretofore unseen works from illustrator Tony Sarg (including the charming 1926 Up & Down New York prints). The private dining room has an amazing display of his self-portraits drawn on napkins, from a series assembled at NYC’s Village Vanguard.
We received a pre-visit call from the concierge to discuss what we might like to do during our stay. She encouraged us to make spa reservations as soon as possible and consider when and where we’d like to dine. Other than that, we could pretty much play it by ear. We were also invited to experience the private bar and dining area, usually reserved for Ocean House club members.
Activities are certainly not lacking at the property even when it’s chilly. Tai chi is conducted in the early morning hours and for those not squeamish about the temperature, walks along the expansive beach are absolutely invigorating. The OH! Spa includes a fully equipped fitness center, a heated saltwater lap pool and a yoga room with a range of video classes. Treatments mirror the resort’s cuisine, changing with the season and incorporating local ingredients. In the warmer months the resort has a program of movie nights, literary-themed events, croquet on the lawn and more, in keeping with the resort’s history of entertaining its guests during their lengthy visits. Culinary classes are scheduled year-round, too, with an oyster shucking lesson during our stay. Afternoon treats of hot chocolate, hot cider and scones are served at 3 in the lobby accompanied by the lulling sounds of a harp. A champagne jazz brunch on Sunday continues the musical theme as do performances on the grand piano.
During the cooler months, dining is indoors and comprises the bar area with its comfort food bistro menu, the adjacent Winter Garden room lined with windows showing off the sky, beach and ocean and the oceanside Seasons Restaurant for fine dining. During the day light streams through the windows making the spaces warm and cozy. When it’s warm outdoors porch and terrace spaces as well as a duneside restaurant overlooking the waves invite diners to linger. All restaurants focus on farm to table local cuisine with seafood predominating.
Special on the weekend is a chef’s experience offered at a six -seat counter surrounding the open kitchen. Here lucky diners are presented with a show of ten perfectly prepared dishes incorporating the freshest seasonal ingredients sourced from no more than 150 miles away. The evening begins with an introduction by a team of chefs and the sommelier who coordinates wine pairings.
On our evening we enjoyed dishes comprising sea bass, lamb, foie gras, and sweet shrimp enhanced with local produce. It was a symphony of perfection, every course stunning and very American in tone. The team was always accessible to answer questions and was extremely knowledgeable about their specialty. Many of the resort’s staff are students at Johnson & Wales, the acclaimed culinary school based in Providence. Young and eager, they represent what’s so unique in the culinary world today. Along with talented sous chef Ed Dollinger, whose background includes stints at Le Bernardin and Daniel in New York City, they form a masterful team.
The four hour dinner culminated with a series of treats, like a special Pedro Jimenez sherry poured over ice cream as they do in Spain, homemade candies and confections like rose macaroons and salty chocolate toffee displayed on a tiered cart, and a gift of an Ocean House cookbook. We had been informed prior that this was a new concept. Had we not known the wow factor would have been over the top. The evening was as close to a perfect culinary event as it gets.
Sunday’s refined jazz brunch at Seasons took second place with everything from fresh local shellfish and artisanal cheeses to crepes and charcuterie served from stations along with one set up for Bloody Marys.
On our drive back home we drove along the shore, marveling at the many mansions still remaining from the area’s golden years and knowing that we would definitely be returning soon.