3 You May Not Know

Tokyo is a city always on the move and forever changing.  It had been three years since I last visited and I wanted to get out of the grid of the usual neighborhoods like Shinjuku, Shibuya and Ginza. I was looking to go deeper, to explore non-touristy neighborhoods that join with the city’s more traditional areas to give Tokyo its unique personality.

Here are three of my favorites: Yanaka, Shimokitazawa called “Shimo-kita” by locals and Kurumae.  Each has a special quality and something interesting to offer.

Yanaka

Virtually untouched by war bombings and earthquakes, Yanaka is Tokyo’s most traditional neighborhood. Its tranquil winding lanes are home to artisans, shops passed down through generations, good restaurants, dazzling temples and—in springtime—an abundance of cherry blossoms.

Originally part of the Kaneiji Temple, Ueno Park is a highlight of Yanaka. The park is known for its numerous museums, including: the Tokyo National Museum, the National Museum for Western Art, the National Science Museum, and the Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum, as well as the 35-acre Ueno Zoological Gardens, Japan’s oldest zoo (opened in 1882), and famous for its giant pandas.  Ueno Park is also one of the most popular spots to see the cherry blossoms in spring, with more than 1,000 trees lining its central ­pathway.

Another highlight of Yanaka is SCAI The Bathhouse. This former public bathhouse turned art gallery is a fascinating juxtaposition of past and present. A nondescript white exterior leads into an austere vaulted gallery space showcasing the work of Japanese and international artists. Be sure to check out the old lockers in the gallery entrance which are operated by a wooden key mechanism—another interesting nod to the property’s history.

Head to the Asakura Museum of Sculpture for a look at the work of Fumio Asakura, considered to be the father of modern Japanese sculpture. Be sure to add a stop at Art Sanctuary Allan West to your wanderings. Here you’ll find the works of American artist Allan West, who came to Japan to study nihonga (traditional Japanese painting), under the instruction of master Kayama Matazo. He’s made Yanaka his home, where he continues to follow his passion creating nature-themed paintings.

Temples are plentiful in Yanaka and Tennoji is the most well-known. Founded in 1274, the temple houses a centuries-old sitting Buddha and a tranquil small garden. It is one of the last remaining refuges for the Tendai sect of Buddhism.

You’ll most likely work up a thirst while exploring the neighborhood and two of the best places to quench it are housed in charming wooden houses. Kayaba Coffee has been around over 50 years making it a traditional kissaten—a Japanese coffee house that also serves comfort foods. If you’re looking for something stronger than coffee, Yanaka Beer Hall offers several brews on tap including a Yanaka Lager that can only be found there.

Shimokitazawa

Want to hang with the cool kids? Head to Shimokitazawa where the Bohemian vibe is stronger than perhaps any other neighborhood. Tokyo-ites refer to this area with one word:  chaos. The streets run in a maze and are lined with hole-in-the-wall eateries, hipster coffee shops, second-hand clothing stores, indie film theaters and live music venues.

Shimokitazawa’s retro feel is tied to its history. It began as a farming community and later transformed into a residential community after the Great Kanto Earthquake, when Tokyo residents fled to the countryside. After surviving the air raids of WWII, the area became a US second-hand market for soldiers. Remnants of that still exist today. The youth movement in the 1970s provided its final transformation to the Bohemian utopia it is today, with the introduction of rock, jazz and blues venues. Then in 1982, with the opening of a big theatre, Shimokitazawa became a theatre neighborhood. Be sure to check out the Honda Gekijo Theatre which offers productions from established and successful writer and directors. Also, about a five-minute walk away, you’ll find the Tollywood Short Film Theater, the place to catch short films by young Japanese and international animation directors.

Kuramae

Situated within walking distance of the tourist district of Asakusa and Tokyo Skytree, Kuramae has become a neighborhood of craftspeople. Artisans have inhabited this area since the Meiji Period providing it with a touch of retro charm—reminiscent of New York’s Soho in the 1980s. An abundance of showrooms provides a glimpse of the neighborhood’s rich artisan history. Yuichiro Murakami spent years mastering the Italian art of leatherworking here. You’ll find a selection of beautiful bags, wallets and accessories at his shop, M+.

At Maito Kuramae, designer and teacher Maito Komuro’s shop features knits, shirts, bags, pouches and an assortment of goods created via two main concepts: “natural source” and “made in Japan.”  All threads are colored with natural and plant-based dyes to produce an array of shades. Seasonal workshops are available for a hands-on experience of the process.

Located on the second floor of a warehouse building, Proto Kuramae showcases pottery and art from artisans throughout Japan. The collection of wooden bowls was irresistible—I bought three! Ink Stand by Kakimori is a haven for anyone who longs for the days of pen and paper. This boutique writing shop offers an expansive collection of pens. You can also make a customized notebook and even create the perfect ink color.

When you’re ready for refreshment, Kuramae has plenty of coffee shops and cafes to oblige. Browse a selection of leather goods at Camera while you wait for your coffee and food. If you’re craving traditional Japanese confections, Eikyudo is the place for you—they’ve been serving a variety of wagashi sweets since 1887.

Tokyo is one of those places where you are always finding new things in familiar neighborhoods like Ginza, Shibuya and Shinjuku. It may be a challenge to venture beyond them to discover new parts of this vast city, but when you do it’s worth the effort.  After all, that’s the fun of traveling.