Let’s talk about Madeira. The wine and the island. This jagged land mass rises from the Atlantic Ocean atop an ancient volcano and offers enough adventure to satiate thrill seekers and nature lovers alike. But if you think this is going to be about trekking through ravines and up mountains, and I do love mountains (though mainly from a distance) here we are delving into the real reason to go to Madeira. Wine. Old wine. Delicious wine. Lots and lots of it.
3 “Usual” Reasons to go to Madeira
Madeira may be part of Portugal, but it sits off the coast of Africa. The island is said to have been the first occupied territory when the European explorers set out across the globe in the 15th century. Nowadays, people tend to go to Madeira for a few reasons. The #1 reason seems to be if you are middle-aged and English. It’s far from the most Portuguese part of Portugal and the island has long been accustomed to being overrun by Brits. As a result, you can find fish and chips on nearly every restaurant menu. #2 is if your cruise ship docks here. One day we stepped into one of the great Madeira wine shops, D’Oliveira, and found it swarming with Scandinavians who had rented the place out for a few hours before hustling back to their ship. #3 is for outdoor enthusiasts who enjoy hiking in the unspoiled interior.
Aged to Perfection
Then, there was us, the couple who seeks out culinary adventures in far-flung places around the globe. Madeira had been on our list since we drank some exquisite wines from the island a few years ago at Bern’s Steakhouse in Tampa, Florida. One was so old, a friend remarked that it was from the Martin Van Buren administration. That’s old.
Madeira wine is fortified, which means it traveled well in the age of exploration. Ships used to stop at the island to resupply and stocked up on its wine, which spread Madeira far and wide from the East Indies to the Americas. A special taste for it was developed by the English – remember group #1?
Four main grapes are used in Madeira: Sercial, the driest, followed by Verdelho, then Boal (Bual) and the sweetest, Malmsey. Another grape, Terrantez, isn’t very common but older styles will retain some sweetness balanced with a dry finish. Madeiras are famous for their ageability and you can find ones in shops that are well over 100 years old. We had heard that some houses will even pour older wines in the tasting rooms, which turned out to be 100% true.
Off to the Island
So, there we were on a plane from Lisbon, fulfilling the dream of visiting this mysterious island in the middle of an ocean. It popped up out of the crystal-clear blue sea like a mirage and as we descended, the plane hugged the coastline. We could see the airport as we descended, closer and closer to the rocky slopes. Then we flew right past it. In about as long as it took me to scratch my head, the plane banked a hard right, dropped onto the runway and pulled up to the gate. Welcome to Cristiano Ronaldo International Airport. No, I’m not making that up as Madeira is the birthplace of the world’s greatest living soccer star. Let’s just say the airport is really spiffy.
Blandy Wine Lodge
In a sense, Madeira would not be a destination without Blandy’s. At various points, the company has produced wine, ships, run hotels, and a lot more. Smack in the middle of Funchal, Madeira’s main town, the Blandy Wine Lodge may have a slightly Epcot feel to it on the surface, but it is a working winery with a restaurant, tasting rooms and a retail shop around the corner.
A premium lodge visit which includes a packed 45-minute tour and tasting of 2 Madeiras for €5.90 per person provides a great overview of the process of making the island’s wine. The tour wends its way through the winery and a fascinating museum of the company’s history – at one point they owned a bank, shipping, hotels, traded in coal and more. After the tasting, peruse the full list of vintage (colheita) wines – I recommend you retire to the library across from the main tasting room, which is much more peaceful. Every weekday at 4:30pm, there is a vintage tour for €16.50. Tours can be booked online – keep in mind they are timed and they start whether you’re there or not.
More Madeira Producers
A short ten-minute walk away is D’Oliveira (Rua Dos Ferreiros 107), another top Madeira producer. Assuming it’s not overrun by day trippers, the shop is a great destination for conversation and tasting. The current wines are all available for tasting, but they will also let you taste a few older vintages if you show a great interest in buying a bottle. They are sitting on thousands of gallons of the stuff and vintages that are 20, 30, even 40 years old are relative bargains in the range of €100 – €150.
Out of town, a must visit is Vinhos Barbeito which offers an incredible selection of vintage Madeiras. The bodega is about 20 minutes out of Funchal so your taxi driver may well decide to wait for you rather than head down the hill – ours did and turned off the meter while he waited. You may have tried their Madeiras through a partnership with the Rare Wine Company which names different styles of their Historic Series after American cities like Charleston, Savannah and New Orleans. Book an appointment in advance: Monday – Friday 9am – 1pm and 2pm – 5:30pm via info@vinhosbarbeito.com.pt.
Beyond the Wine
Once you are sufficiently wine-d up, there are plenty of other activities to keep you occupied. Tours can take you into the mountains for hiking or to see amazing natural beauty like the Valley of the Nuns. For an easy afternoon trip from Funchal, head to the port and take the Teleférico cable care 560 meters up to Monte to visit the stunning Monte Palace Tropical Gardens. These lush gardens feature plants from around the world, two Oriental gardens, waterfalls and incredible views.
If you’re feeling adventurous, climb up to the Quinta do Terreiro da Luta and the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Peace. Round-trip for the Teleférico at €16 is a bit steep and it’s not for the height adverse, but the view is quite spectacular. Be warned – the last trip down is 5:45pm so don’t miss it. The only other option is a harrowing switchback-laden cab ride down the mountain.
Dinner and Cocktails with a View
The food on Madeira is a mix of what pleases British tourists – meat, fried fish, lots of chips – but if you are adventurous, the local seafood is delicious. Restaurante Casal da Penha proved to be our favorite local restaurant. Reservations are recommended and make sure to ask to sit on the roof where you will be entertained by the predominantly British clientele reveling in carved beef dishes. Skip the beef and order seafood like limpets, prawns and octopus. The island’s only Michelin-starred restaurant, William, located in the famous Churchill haunt Belmond Reid’s Palace was overwrought and disappointing. If you want to get caught in a Michelin time warp, that’s the spot for you.
The hotel itself is perched on a cliff with impressive views – go for tea or a cocktail at sunset. The list won’t wow you (Sex on the Beach anyone?) but the view over Funchal will and that’s why you are on this giant rock 280 miles off the coast of Africa.
Tips for Visiting
Cristiano Ronaldo International Airport lies on the coast east of the city of Funchal. A taxi to the center will cost about €25 – €30 and take about 20 – 30 minutes. In general, taxis are not cheap, but they are plentiful. We found no evidence of Uber or other ride-sharing services.
While there are beaches, most of Madeira is mountainous and beaches, such as they are, tend to be small and stony. The few good ones are somewhat off the beaten path.
Driving on Madeira can be challenging. There are good highways, but they are narrow and surprisingly busy, while the roads in the hills tend to be narrower and full of switchbacks. Not for the faint of heart!
All those Brits don’t tip but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t. The staff will appreciate you much more for leaving 5 – 10% in cash after your meal.
Many businesses close by 1pm/2pm on Saturdays and remain closed on Sundays.
Funchal is quite hilly, especially if you stay in the hotel area to the west of the downtown. Bring comfortable walking shoes.