24 Hours in Spokane, Washington

I’m standing on the “Blue Bridge” over the Spokane River, taking in the waterfalls cascading below and the soaring mountain peaks in the distance. I’m in Riverfront Park, a beautiful Spokane green space. It reminds me of New York’s Central Park with its winding footpaths, fountains and gorgeous vistas. It’s a Sunday, and on this bright fall day, locals and visitors are out, strolling and biking. Some whiz about on the Lime electric scooters available to rent (like Citi Bikes in other cities) all over the city. While Spokane is the second-largest city in the state—in eastern Washington near the Idaho border—it is very manageable to explore. This is fortunate since I only have 24 hours to discover the bounty of Spokane highlights.

Jolts of Nature

I start out after sunrise, heading to Manito Park, a slice of paradise amid Spokane’s urbanscape. The park features 90 acres of flowering and forested parkland, including Spokane’s version of the Versailles gardens. Called Duncan Garden, the geometric layout showcases 70,000 annuals like “Zinderella Purple” Zinnias and “Jolt Pink” Dianthus. Nearby is an exquisite rose garden as well as a dahlia trial garden where new varieties are evaluated for worthiness. Further afield, among towering Pacific Northwest fir trees, I find tranquil Japanese gardens as well. The beauty of this park seems a well-kept secret with few visitors disturbing its tranquility.

After exploring the grounds, I jump back into my rental car, as Sundays are an ideal day to tour via car from points A to Z in the city, given that parking meters are not enforced, and the usual business buzz is quiet. I duck into a breakfast eatery downtown, People’s Waffle, for what are arguably the best waffles on this planet (and I’m no waffle novice.) The blueberry, lemon meringue-infused version I try needs no syrup, its delicate yet hearty combination melting in my mouth.

Invigorated with sugar, I zip up in my rental car for the 10 am opening of the Northwest Museum of Arts & Culture, a Smithsonian-affiliated museum. There, I’m lucky to discover dozens of original Audubon bird sketches and prints on display, along with memorabilia related to the man behind the iconic Birds of America bible, James John Audubon. Upcoming over the winter, exhibits are slated to include Tiffany treasures, as well as contemporary American Indian art from regional tribes.

Bygone Days—and Cannabis Ways

Returning downtown, I decide that a visit to Washington State would be incomplete without checking out a local cannabis store, and my head spins at The Lucky Leaf and its array of offerings in this “legal” state. The store is a few blocks from my hotel, the Historic Davenport Hotel, so I then take a quick break amid the ornate architectural glamor of the property, which brings to mind grander eras. The lobby is easily as impressive as New York City’s historic Plaza Hotel. The Davenport is the finest hotel in Spokane and, while there are several other Davenport hotels in town (part of the Marriot Autograph Collection), none are as authentically beautiful as the Historic Davenport, which is on the National Register of Historic Places. When it opened in 1914, the hotel was the first-ever hotel to have air conditioning, among many other amenities. In fact, Spokane was once the home of silver-mining barons who, in the late 1800s began settling in the city, which was a burgeoning financial and cultural hub.

The Riverfront and Spokane Falls

It’s a glorious sunny day, so after a little rest, it’s time to hit the Riverfront Park. A giant red wagon greets me by an entrance, the wagon a sculpture and kids’ playground wrapped up in one. A carousel twirls nearby, and young children “feed” a sculptured-steel goat that vacuums up their disposables. A gondola SkyRide whisks me up over the Spokane Falls for a birds-eye view of the city. Meanwhile the Great Northern Clock Tower—a remnant of the city’s former rail depot—stands sentinel over the park. Later at night, I’m told a cavalcade of lights streaming down from the pavilion will light up the riverfront.

Spokane’s Main Street runs parallel to the park just a block away. I stroll along its storefronts, making way for Lime scooters whizzing by and shoppers hitting Nike, Nordstrom, and other upscale stores at River Park Square, a shopping mall nearby. Along the city’s downtown grid there are gritty-looking historical buildings, a remnant of the post, such as a former steam plant and flour mill.

Food and Craft Beer Scenes

I then put Kendall Yards into my GPS, which brings me to the opposite side of the river where there’s an array of dining and drinking establishments. I take in scenic vistas from the bluff with panoramic views of Spokane, the river, and snow-capped mountains beyond. I scan diverse menus, especially intrigued by the craft beer offerings in this city. But my heart is already set on a special restaurant back downtown, Zona Blanca, a ceviche bar. I absolutely love ceviche and the restaurant is on my radar. Not only was it listed by local magazines as the best of Spokane for several years running, its chef also cooked up a storm on Top Chef.

Long ago, the Zona Blanca chef (and Navy veteran) Chad White learned restaurant stewardship and organizational skills when he was whipping up meals for 5,000+ aboard a Navy aircraft carrier. Now, within 3-5 minutes his restaurant can deliver scrumptious ceviche to tables, with his innovative concoctions part of an increasingly eclectic food scene in Spokane. “It’s really exciting, the multitude of chefs from different countries,” he says, of the diverse restaurants popping up in the city.

Chef White’s inspiration comes from time spent in places like the Baja Peninsula and Mexico City, and the results are blends of sweet and spicy, smooth and crunchy, refreshing and fiery.

I relish “Mixto” on the menu, a combination of raw tuna, shrimp, octopus, cilantro and pickled onion, all swirled with an aguachile rojo” (chili-lime marinade) and topped with “salsa de cacahuates” (chili-peanut salsa). These are served with tostados, which chef tells me, must be spread with mayonnaise—the mayo a barrier that keeps the tostados crisp when ceviche is spooned on them. It’s fun to sample a couple of dishes, sharing the way to go at Zona Blanca, which has a cool atmosphere. Especially innovative is a ceviche dish called “Dorilocos,” based on a popular Mexico City street snack. The ingredients here remain a secret at Zona Blanca, except for the Doritos bag in which it’s served, the bag serving as a makeshift taco and the Doritos within adding crunch to the otherwise secret recipe. I quench the Dorilocos’ zing with a TTs Old Iron Brewery craft beer brewed nearby.

Spokane Highlights in 24 Hours

And with that, my 24-hour Spokane splurge culminates on a culinary high note in this city with so many fine chords – from the grittiness of steam plant buildings to silvery opulence, from fir trees to cannabis, from river falls to mountain vistas, and from museums to sculptures and spicy salsas. The city plays a song I’d hardly expected, but awakening to its tune, I leave Spokane set on returning one day soon, thinking that next time I’ll have to wander into the mountains that beckon beyond the city borders.

The area code for Spokane is 509.