South-of-the-border in Puerto Vallarta

At day’s end while strolling Puerto Vallarta’s Malecón, the seawall boardwalk that is the heart of the city’s energy, I noticed something. Heads turned, conversations paused and cameras aimed. It was sunset – a transformation from daylight’s baby blue sky to tie-dyed shades of yellow, tangerine and lavender. What an extraordinary scene and here it was an ordinary nightly ritual – and an impressive one.

While I’ve traveled to Mexico’s Jalisco state many times, this visit was different. Yes, it was the same festive town nestled between Banderas Bay and the Sierra Madre Mountains. But with the help of a few locals, I saw a side that went beyond typical tourist stuff. My journey began with made-in-Mexico adventures by day and ended with epicurean memories by night.

After sunset, a magical first evening unfolded – from my search for twilight’s elusive green flash (no, I didn’t see it) to an impromptu dance to the beat of some  street performers followed by a delicious meal at La Cappella Restaurant. Perched on a hill overlooking the Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe with its distinctive bell tower, the restaurant fits its moniker “where the beauty of Puerto Vallarta’s ocean meets the elegance of fine dining.” The international cuisine with an Italian bent (slow-cooked pork leg with creamy polenta and a garlic-infused-butter-baked lobster tail) was served in an atmosphere reminiscent of a Spanish colonial chapel with mosaics, religious statuaries, ornately painted ceilings and candles. The crescendo was a strolling serenade of violinists.

Early next morning, I sped from the Maritime Terminal aboard a luxury catamaran with Vallarta Adventures to a secluded cove for a little snorkeling followed by a visit to the private island of Majahuitas. This hidden beach club with a jungle backdrop beneath swaying palms and umbrellas only 45 minutes from Puerto Vallarta’s dock in town, seemed to be an “in-the-know” secret – one of the destination’s many.

Perched on the edge of Puerto Vallarta’s Cuale River, which flows from the mountains through town to the sea, Le Bistro Restaurant, situated beneath a natural awning of trees, projects an Old World charm with a riverside ambience, despite the white starched tablecloths. Its elevated cuisine was described as “modern Mexican” – from a cream of corn soup to red snapper ceviche and duck enchiladas – all using the freshest local ingredients.

If you’re up for a non-stop adrenaline rush, head to Canopy River Park. Located about 45 minutes from the city within the Sierra Madres, this eco park is ensconced within a dramatically varied topography – dense jungle mixed with canyons and gaping crevices. Adventure experiences here range from horseback riding or hiking to ziplining and all-terrain vehicles, including ATVs and RZRs. Go for a couple of hours to a full day, the choice is yours. Mine was an RZR sampling. 

I changed into a long-sleeved shirt, pants, and close-toed shoes then donned a helmet, protective glasses and a scarf over my entire face (in dry season, dust flies). I strapped into one of the vehicle’s four-point harnesses and was off, stopping at a variety of scenic lookouts – the elevated glass platform, Jorullo Point, situated high above the valley gorge and a cool-down stop on the banks of the Cuale River. The highlight was slowly traversing Jorullo Bridge, a 1,542-foot suspension bridge (Mexico’s longest) 492 feet above the river.

An authentic treat at the ride’s end was a refreshing pajarete, a typical morning beverage traditionally enjoyed by ranchers, made from raw cow’s milk (hand milked as I waited), high-proof alcohol and such flavorings as chocolate, coffee, sugar and cinnamon. 

Lunch was a full-blown Mexican buffet offered Saturdays and Sundays at Canopy River Park’s Los Coapinoles Restaurant, featuring native specialties like homemade tortillas, rajas poblanas, red menudo and birria tacos, all enjoyed with caballero entertainment.

Under the tutelage of Chef Mauricio Leal who trained at Paris’ prestigious Gregoire Ferrandi School, Zona Romántica’s ICÚ Restaurant has garnered award-winning recognition. Chef’s philosophy has been described as using seasonal produce to take Mexican dishes and remake them in his own way nodding to foods from other regions. In addition to ICÚ’s inventive craft cocktail menu was its wine cellar – featuring only Mexican wines.  

Swimming with dolphins was the flawless finale. Operated by Wildlife Connection, this ecotourism operator’s purpose was to give participants the opportunity to come into contact with animals in their natural environment from small, fast boats – the best way to approach them. On board, accredited guides shared their knowledge. I learned that the reality of swimming with marine mammals was dependent on various conditions – the dolphin’s type, activity and mood – with juveniles’ tendency for curiosity presenting the greatest likelihood. Because of the seasonal timing, the dolphins we encountered were bottlenose, and we were only able to enter the water near them but not swim with them. 

My Puerto Vallarta homebase was the Velas Vallarta Hotel. Situated seven minutes from the airport in the marina on Banderas Bay, this eight-story hotel situated on 10 lush acres was a good choice. From a welcome plate of macaroons and chocolate-covered strawberries upon arrival to the ocean view enjoyed from the bougainvillea-draped balcony of every room, my stay was a pampered one. This was a place with 24-hour suite service, three restaurants (including La Ribera, a Mexican cantina with steps leading to the beach), three pools, numerous bars and an exclusive boutique – all punctuated by peacocks wandering the grounds. 

And, every night, a view – of the Puerto Vallarta sunset.