With rural lanes along rolling hills, coastal roads skirting raging oceans, and modern highways connecting major cities, the island of Ireland is made for road trips. Though many of the towns are easily walkable while in the center, you’ll want a car to explore the wonders in between. This summer, I packed my besties and a raincoat into a rental car and toured the western and northern coasts, looking for immersive experiences and stately stays.
We picked up our car at the Dublin airport, named her Lefty to remind us on which side of the road to drive, and headed west toward County Galway. Along the way, we stopped for our first Guinness at Sean’s Bar in the town of Athlone, Ireland’s oldest pub dating back to 900 AD.
After another two hours on the road, we arrived at Abbeyglen Castle Hotel, ready for the royal experience. Built in 1832, Abbeyglen Castle is classic. Think four poster beds, giant clawfoot tubs and views that stretch for miles. Since 1969, the hotel has been operated by multiple generations of the Hughes family. At check-in, they’ll welcome you with a glass of champagne and, hopefully, a greeting from Brian Hughes, one of the owners and perhaps the most outgoing hotelier in all of Ireland. You’ll see him again over dinner, serenading his guests on the piano before retiring to the bar to, well, serenade his guests over evening cocktails. The hospitality is really next level.
The next morning, we continued toward Westport, located on the Wild Atlantic Way in County Mayo. First, a little puppy love. Westport Wolfhounds has created a tour walking Irish Wolfhounds on a quiet beach. These gentle giants can stand nearly three feet at the shoulder and weigh up to 180 pounds. Along the walk, their human companion teaches you about the dog breed, Irish folklore and the legendary Grace O’Malley, a 16th century clan leader known as the Pirate Queen, the red-headed firebrand who revised the handbook on Irish lady-like behavior.
Back in the town it was time to warm up, learning to make scones and Irish soda bread. Led by Carmel and Mary, who’ve been friends since childhood, the Irish Soda Bread Way experience is a hands-on baking class that teaches the history of how these traditional treats emerged, peppered with hilarious commentary from our hosts. You’ll leave with scones, soda bread and fresh butter all made by you, and the recipes for you to make these Irish treats back home.
We finished our day listening to traditional Irish music at Matt Molloy’s Pub before retiring to The Grace Hotel, nestled within Westport Estate. Aside from spacious rooms and meticulous shared spaces, The Grace has one of the most expansive hotel breakfasts I’ve experienced. Whatever you choose to eat the next morning, do not skip the cinnamon rolls!
From the rugged western coast to the serenity of an ancient forest, our next day took us to Finn Lough in the Lake District of Northern Ireland. This nature retreat is a destination unto itself. Located in County Fermanagh, the overnight options include riverside cabins, lakefront suites and bubble domes under starry skies. Obviously, I chose the bubble. This is about the only version of “camping” that I can get used to. The spacious see-through plastic dome had a bedroom with a massive tub and sitting area, and en suite bathroom. The domes overlook secluded woodlands and showcase a star-dotted canopy overnight. Once you enter Finn Lough, you won’t want to leave. The on-site restaurant serves food sourced from within a 50-mile radius, with many of the vegetables and herbs grown in Finn Lough’s own gardens. They also have several spa routes, including the Elements Trail Spa journey, a self-guided two-hour private experience through a series of treatment cabins combining hot and cold therapies in the woods. For an exhilarating jolt, take a dip in the fresh lake surrounding the property. Finn Lough is secluded luxury at its finest.
The following day we stopped at Ulster American Folk Park, a one-hour drive from Finn Lough. This museum focuses on the history of emigration to America from Ireland’s Ulster Region (which contains nine counties in both the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland). There is no modern American history without Irish contributions, and this open-air museum employs costumed actors playing roles from both sides of the Atlantic. Walking through the various buildings, scenes and immersive trails brings the Irish-American story to life, and honors the sacrifices immigrants have made in hopes of a better life.
Our drive continued north toward Giant’s Causeway. Formed over 60 million years ago when molten lava met the cooling sea, Giant’s Causeway was Northern Ireland’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site. It boasts hexagonal basalt columns and rock formations that look both prehistoric and intergalactic. Explore with a guide or audio tour to fully immerse yourself in both the geological history and legend of Finn McCool, the Irish giant whose rivalry with a Scottish giant led to the mythical construction of the Causeway.
We finished our day with breathtaking views from the Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge, about 30 minutes away. First built by salmon fishermen in 1755, today’s bridge is operated by the National Trust and stands suspended almost 100 feet above the Atlantic Ocean. The entire area is postcard-perfect Ireland, with green hills and jagged cliffs plunging into the rocky coastline.
After a week through the Irish countryside, it was time to return Lefty to her Dublin home, before setting off to our own.
Whether it’s the natural beauty of the island’s landscapes, the Irish music spilling out of pubs, or maybe the Guinness that just tastes better here, Ireland welcomes warmly and charms exuberantly. From its rural roads to its paved highways, we found the journey as meaningful as each destination. Before we even landed back home, we’d already started plotting our reunion with Lefty next year.
