Wineport Lodge & The Ice House
Even in today’s fast paced world rampant with media hype, everyone still loves a rebirth, and I’m not talking religion. Upon arriving at The Wineport Lodge in Glasson, County Westmeath, all I could think was that I wished it was summer and we were getting out of a boat. The lodge is first and foremost a waterside retreat, perched like a jewel on the shores of Killinure Lough which links into the wider Lough Ree on Ireland’s famous River Shannon. The parkland setting is one of the most peacefully beautiful spots in the Midlands of County Westmeath. A boathouse in its former life, the cedarwood clad compound complete with veranda and jetties was reborn in 1993 as a simple lakeside restaurant helmed by husband and wife restaurateurs Ray Byrne and Jane English. Today, however, it is something quite different.
The Wineport Lodge
First, the site’s history warrants a little attention. Having been the place where St. Ciaran’s monks landed their precious cargo of wine barrels from France, the tradition of winemaking (and of course, wine drinking) was (dare I say) consecrated and to this day Wineport bears the flag as Ireland’s first “wine hotel.” I like the thought of that, don’t you? It goes without saying that Wineport’s extensive wine list is inspired by the monks themselves, but what about the food?
The Wineport Lodge
Chef Cathal Moran’s wholesome and innovative fare aims to showcase the finest local ingredients at their best … that translates to adventurous takes on classics such as a baked organic St. Tola goat cheese from County Clare as well as a slow cooked spiced lamb served Moroccan style with a sweet potato tagine and lemon and apricot couscous. The dining room’s ambience is strikingly contemporary adding to a “wow” factor that’s on par with Dublin. Savor cocktails in the comfort of a chic and cozy lounge with soft jazz playing in the background. You can even order prior to being seated so that when you arrive at your table, your first course is not far behind you. You see, the diligent staff at Wineport has thought of everything. If you’ve had a great catch that day, they’ll even prepare it for your dinner.
The Wineport Lodge
Even though Wineport began as a simple restaurant, today it is a fully outfitted lodge. Where do you think you’re going after all that great wine? With the opening of 10 rooms in 2002, 11 more in 2005 along with a full service spa and finally another 8 suites in 2006, Wineport today would make the monks proud. I think they are looking out for their successors. Everything you could possibly need (beyond the wine of course) for the ultimate weekend away from reality is here. It seems Wineport is a recipe for success. Why? If you’re wondering about the buzz perhaps it’s because Wineport Lodge is host to the very popular culinary TV show, “The Restaurant”, on Ireland’s RTE, which is filmed on location. In the media world, broadcast is the ultimate, right? Enough said.
The Wineport Lodge
But who needs hype when you have a provenance that makes idle tongues wag. The Ice House Hotel in Ballina, Count Mayo, was on the map ages ago and it’s still there. A sister to Wineport in its mission to transcend the standard restaurant establishment, it too encompasses a cutting edge hotel and world class spa. Today the riverside restaurant, aptly named The Pier House, has turned a shoulder to history, its giant transparent glass ice cube setting the three storied 19th century Victorian style building apart from anything else in the vicinity.
Ice House
Strategically located on the Quay, at the edge of the river, the lines between new and old are clearly defined in the striking contemporary additions to the original structure which form a spectacular foreground to the hotel’s setting on the water. Think “creek chic” and jaw dropping, ok? That the building at one time served as a cold store for salmon being transported along the River Moy bound for Dublin and Liverpool means very little in the face of its progeny. The Ice House, originally called “The Iceland Cottage” or “Iceland House” with its architectural pedigree and historical merit is nothing short of international.
Ice House
But let’s get back to the restaurant where you dine behind glass walls with floor to ceiling water views. The Pier House with its comfortable banquettes, interlocking bar, fabulous riverside terrace and long list of wine and cocktails is the place to be and Chef Gavin O’Rourke’s a la carte menu hits all the right notes. Having savored the best seafood chowder I’ve ever tasted in a gastro pub near Westport the day before, I was curious what Gavin would bring to this western Ireland menu staple. I was surprised to find bits of crab and lobster in Gavin’s rendition which was sensational. We decided to go with game for our main courses since we’d spent almost an entire week savoring the local seafood and needed a change up. The seared rabbit loin and the roasted loin of venison were a refreshing break from the local catch; the day’s driving had been taxing and we craved filling dishes which Chef Gavin delivered. A perfect vanilla crème brulee finished off the evening washed down with a refreshing vin santo of course. If only we’d booked for the weekend, we could have savored petits fours in our suite overlooking the lake (and kept the wine groove going). Oh well, next time we’ll know to come in summer for more than just one night and by boat, naturally. Maybe a little double duty with both The Ice House and Wineport Lodge is in order for our next anniversary.
Ice House
The Pier House features two bottles of excellent wines as House Wines of the Month offered at a very good price and a special Spring Tapas & Bar Bites menu for everyone wanting to channel their international groove. Indulge!
Ice House
Wineport Lodge
Glasson, County Westmeath, Ireland
353 90 643 9010 www.wineport.ie
The Ice House
The Quay, Ballina, County Mayo
353 96 23500 www.theicehouse.ie