Soleá – The W Hotel’s Unwavering Perfection
Soleá … even the name spurs your imagination. Could it mean something about the sun or perhaps as there is an accent on the “a” maybe an obscure Spanish verb that has something to do with using the sun to achieve a glorified state? Hmm, as a lover of sunshine and the glorified state of Miami Beach, the restaurant Soleá in question could be nothing short of the restaurant of my dreams. But I’m wrong on both counts as Soleá is named for the magical flamenco music of Spain and I’m not being over imaginative when I say that the restaurant took the Squire’s group on a whirl of Spain’s most vibrant dishes interpreted in the W’s signature contemporary style. Plus, it was no secret when we visited that it is the place to eat for celebs, foodies and trendsetters alike. The news has spread like wildfire and Soleá has made an indelible impression on the who’s who of South Beach, offering a world-class food and wine experience from an innovative South Floridian viewpoint.
Let me start with the surroundings. When walking into Soleá, you are walking into the high court of design at none other than the W Hotel. Nestled in the lobby of the exquisite South Beach location, Soleá’s dining room overlooks the outdoor garden and adjacent pool area providing a glimpse of things to come. Awash in warm chocolates, creams and taupes, the ambience is casually chic. Massive river stone columns anchor walls of Venetian plaster with mother of pearl inlays and the dining room is softly lit with glass wall sconces and matte black pendants suspended like punctuation marks over refectory tables made from single slabs of maple wood. Think of it as your introduction to all things “W” as in “wow.” While the ambience is elegant, it remains relaxed, like group therapy, W style.
Start your experiential meal with one of the Soleá’s super inventive cocktails. Miami’s evolving mixology movement has infused the cocktail menu with ingenuity, melding classic and nouvelle ingredients into libations that border on true hybrids. Much like the individual layers that come together so exquisitely in Soleá’s dishes, cocktails are composed from the ground floor up so to speak and make sipping before, during or even after the meal a culinary experience all its own. I can’t repeat what was in my “W Mule” but I can tell you that I wanted to continue drinking it even when the food arrived. The culinary journey began with tantalizing “pica pica,” essentially an array of tapas with the emphasis on seafood which were perfect for combining and sharing with our friends. Signature items like the calamares a la Andaluza, tender fried squid served with aioli and spicy sauce, and the salpicon de pulpo, tender octopus and fingerling potatoes on micro greens are headliners here and the judia con jamon Iberico y foie gras, a refreshing ensalada of crisp haricots verts with foie gras and chanterelle mushrooms, brought a sigh of relief to those of us that continued the cocktail crawl.
The next act, the main course, kept the Mediterranean center stage reflecting Spain’s intimate romance with the sea. Pescados range from a delicate yellowtail snapper (pargo), served with pistachio citrus vinaigrette to a more filling swordfish (pez espada) with a tomato confit and calamata olives in a sherry reduction. Arroces, elaborately prepared paella-style rice, are served piping hot in a cast iron pot and can be enjoyed as a side or a main. The best of these is the arroz cremoso al Idiazabal con ceps y foie, creamy with a sheep’s milk cheese from the Basque country blended with porcini and seared foie gras. Rich and savory meats like the slow cooked pork (cochinillo confitado) are surprising and dramatic like a flamenco dancer creating her own rhythm to her favorite Soleáres.
The Squire suggests you bring a magical close to the feast with as many of pastry chef, Antonio Bachour’s stellar house made desserts as possible. These are sure to send the foodies (and the ladies) in your group over the edge. Imagine taking churros (Latin sugar doughnuts) out of the subway and dipping them in a rich chocolate sauce. And while we’re taking chocolate, his espiral de chocolate (soft chocolate ganache spiral) with passion fruit sorbet and chocolate crumble is practically numbing in its perfection. The sensation of his passionate artistry (practiced formerly at Scarpetta in New York City) is palpable and you will be tempted to order more I promise.
Give in or give out, no matter, a meal at Soleá sets a course for hedonism, so much a faction in South Beach but reaching the highest high here without a doubt. Step outside in the garden and enjoy the cool sea breezes, swaying grape trees and subtle sounds of the ocean afterward. Isn’t life wonderful?
Solea – W Hotel Miami Beach2201 Collins AveMiami Beach, FL 33139
(305) 938-3000