Exploring Fez, Morocco

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It’s Hard Not to Get Lost in Fez

Imagine walking down a spiraling cobblestone street, getting closer with each step. Unfamiliar sounds break the stillness – drumbeats and indistinct Arabic words.  Odors wafting in the air are unlike any you’ve smelled before …meats, boiling harira, herbs and spices you can’t distinguish.  Even with your eyes closed you know you’ve reached the medina and this is the beginning of the mystery of Fez.

I’m just passing under Bab Boujloud, one of the monumental gateways to the city’s winding and historic medina. It’s late, maybe 9 pm and the cafés are full up with dinner guests. Young men tempt me with their menus offering lamb tagine, vegetable couscous, chicken b’stila. It’s hard not to look but I’m in a rush to settle into my quiet riad. I follow a winding alley which twists and turns, turn right where the map indicates right then another right. I’ve always had a great sense of direction but before long I realize I’m lost. It’s hard not to get lost in Fez where endless streets with no names lead to blind alleys where only an occasional donkey strays. When I finally find my riad and soothe my nerves with some mint tea, the sounds of the city have calmed to a whisper and the soothing gurgling of the courtyard fountain lulls me to sleep.

An Early Awakening

The days start early here in Fez with the call to prayer at 5 am, the muezzin singing a full prayer after the call which lasts until 5:30. After this mystical awakening, I’m ready for anything. A homemade breakfast again with mint tea (most riads include breakfast in their nightly price) gets me primed to hit the medina again. The alleyways today are bustling with energy as merchants barter with customers and locals sort through the endless offerings that include live chickens. Children chase stray cats while tourists click away incessantly. Shop owners relentlessly urge you in and it’s all part of the charm of the culture of this north African city so resist the urge to hurry and soak it all in.

A Place to Wander

Maps are readily available in guidebooks but aren’t much help if you aren’t already familiar with the ancient medinas of Morocco. It’s best to stash the map (with your riad location clearly marked) and wander off for a browse in the incredible shops. There’s plenty to keep an adventurous spirit busy. Fez is a great place to shop (although not quite as great as Marrakech) and the shopkeepers are happy to show you their goods.  When you’re ready to buy, don’t accept the first quote — it’s considered rude in Moroccan culture. Negotiation is part of the business and they will be insulted if you walk without a haggle. Plus you’ll save a few dirhams.

If you continue down Talaa Kebira from Bab Bou Jeloud, you will find Medersa Bou Inania. Medersas are the Muslim equivalent of monasteries, schools to peacefully study theology. The medersa is complete with a full mosque and minaret (unusual for medersas). Interspersed between the medersa and the many shops nearby, you will find alleys leading towards the tanneries. If you aren’t quite sure which direction the tanneries are, just ask one of the many Fassis trying to lure you down to the leather district. You’ll be able to smell it from blocks away. Tourists aren’t allowed in the actual tanning pits, but you can certainly get peeks of the action as well as freshly made leather goods. Most salesmen will explain the process to you (but will expect a tip or sale in return).

Shopping in Fez

While shopping, make your way through the alleys to the Kairaoine Mosque and University which should be your first stop. While no one knows exactly how long the mosque and school have been around, historians believe it’s the oldest university in the world. In addition to that honor, the Kairaoine Mosque also holds the title of Africa’s largest mosque. t’s hard to get an idea of just how huge the mosque is because of its location in the walled medina in addition to non-Muslims not being allowed inside. But what peeks you can steal from the Talaa Kebira and Place as-Seffarine should satisfy your curiosity.  Photographers, get your zoom lens out here: the columns seem to go on forever in the halls of this gigantic mosque. You can also enjoy a view of the mosque and campus from any tall building in the medina; the green pyramid-shaped roof and minaret make themselves known.

The Jewish Quarter & Palais Royale

When you feel you’re ready for a break from the medina, venture towards the mellah (the Jewish Quarter), stopping at Jnan Sbil — the Bou Jeloud Gardens — a good halfway point from the medina and the mellah. While the mellah isn’t much of a shopping haven, you’ll see plenty of the day-to-day for the people of Fez. There aren’t many Jews living in these parts now but you will see the difference in the architecture and style from the rest of the medina. If you’re feeling curious stop by the Jewish cemetery and Habarim synagogue which is filled with history and if you meet the right person, amazing stories about those buried there.  An added bonus is it’s on the way to the royal palace.

The Palais Royale Dar El Makhzen is definitely a must-see. While you won’t be able to go inside, you won’t believe the larger than life brass doors unless you see them for yourself. The architecture and tile work is not to be missed. On your way back to the medina, stop by the Baghdali Square, an open-air market for those who may be getting a little claustrophobic shopping inside the medina’s walls.

Guided Walking Tours

If meandering through the medina isn’t quite your style, try one of the many walking tours Fez has to offer. The city’s government and tourism office teamed up to create signs throughout the city, depicting differing walks you can take throughout the city. Look around for the signs throughout the old city, which will point you on your way as well as intermittent signs (in English) to explain the significance of what you are seeing.  There are five different color-coded walks to choose from: dark blue = monuments and souks, green = Andalucian palaces and gardens, orange = Fez el-Jdid (where most Fassis live now), pale blue = Andalucian quarter, purple = artisanal crafts tour. Try one or two each day; they aren’t terribly long and they will all tempt you with interesting distractions along the way.

Beyond Old Fez

After two days of wandering the medina, you’ll be ready to head out to Ville Nouvielle. While this may not be the Fez you’re used to now, for many Fassis this is where it’s at. Modern architecture, perfectly manicured lawns, ice cream shops, palm trees: this newer section of the city has it all. Enjoy an evening walk down Avenue Hassan II, where you will find just as many people-watching opportunities as sitting outside of a restaurant near Bab Bou Jeloud. But no matter where you decide to spend your time in Fez, you’ll find yourself falling in love — and wondering just how expensive that change fee is to delay your flight back home.

Tip: While many riads offer guides on staff, be wary of them — or anyone — offering help. Many Fassis in the street may try to “guide” you to where you are trying to go, but will really take you to their brother’s tannery or their girlfriend’s jewelry shop where you will be expected to buy things. Even though the guides offered by riads are paid (by you), they will still expect you to shop — and will take you to those shops where they will receive a commission based on how much you purchase. Go it alone in Fès if at all possible.