A Little Bit of Europe in Paso Robles

Eight acres of planted vineyards, two bell towers and a stained-glass chapel: Franciscan monks chanting through the property’s stone tunnel would not be surprising. We’re here in Paso Robles, California, at the Allegretto Vineyard Resort, a luxury Tuscan-style hotel with an old-world aesthetic, but just five years young.

The project of developer David Ayers, a fourth-generation “Paso Roblan”, the 171 -room resort boasts frescoes, statuary and paintings from his many travels to Europe, Asia, South America, and beyond.

Today, tucked within this central coast California region exist gems like Allegretto. These Paso Robles highlights satisfy the itch to fly to countries ‘over the pond” with their hotels, wineries, and restaurants taking you on an imaginary European vacation while we wait for borders to open.

Paso Robles Highlights: Where to Stay

Allegretto Vineyard Inn

For opulence, the 20-acre Allegretto Vineyard Inn is a standout. Murals, a dramatic fountain, and a pair of olive trees greet you upon entry. The Y-shaped marble staircase with a tiered, fiber-optic chandelier dominates the two-story foyer. To see it in your mind’s eye, lock in a mansion scene from the Dynasty TV series from the 1970s.

This resort stands ready to please: restaurant, spa, workout room, swimming pool with cabanas and hot tub (rare in Paso Robles), tasting room, ping pong, bocce ball, free rental bicycles, and horseshoes. Wander the small chapel, vast courtyard, vineyard and the unique sonic labyrinth. With so many antiques and original masterpieces, the hotel hosts a public art tour twice a week. Outdoor firepits, indoor fireplaces, and alcoves for reading beg you to slow down.

High-ceilinged rooms and suites feature a small fridge for storing wines, a coffeemaker, wood floors, and dark Euro-styled furnishings. Book a room with a sitting area to spread out and relax in the Zen atmosphere. Enjoy generously sized marble baths. And thumbs up to the management who thoughtfully provide plush white robes and slippers.

Summerwood Winery and Inn

About 15 minutes away on Highway 46’s wine trail is Summerwood Winery and Inn, a destination quite the opposite of the ornate Allegretto. Smaller in footprint, this modern, two-story, French-styled farmhouse sends a vibe that is simple, clean, and refreshing. Each of the dwellings in the eight-room farmhouse is named after a grape.

Uncluttered and inviting, our room, the Syrah, featured wood floors, a faux fireplace, flat-screen TV and a wrought iron bed. Views to the vineyard evoked a sanctuary-like feel.

The inn offers complimentary afternoon snacks and Summerwood wines. Generous nibbles include different cheeses, bread, dried fruit, cookies, and locally made caramels keeping us from feeling ravenous before dinner.

Modern meets monastery here with high ceilings, a neutral palette and scant art. Our room exhibited a single ornament: a rectangular wooden object with cutout circles hanging on one wall. The dining room sports the same attitude with a pair of framed mirrors accenting the walls but not overpowering them. Again, everything delivers a serene sense of purity. One couple we met at breakfast visited six times in the previous year and were on their fourth this year.

Hospitality reigns under manager Angie who worked here even before the remodel ten years ago. Hot breakfast is included in your stay and the chef makes a killer Eggs Benedict and French Toast. You also receive a complimentary tasting at the Summerwind Winery across the street.

The Lofts at The Market

Discover The Lofts at The Market, the overnight hotspot for the new Paso Market Walk, a food/shopping pavilion that opened last August. Among Paso’s newest lodging facilities, they consist of six chic French contemporary dwellings designed for couples and families. Ranging from studios to one and two-bedroom suites, these distinct upscale digs feature wood laminate floors, mini-kitchens with fully stocked cabinets and open shelving.  White countertops and hand-painted, tile backsplashes, microwaves and wine storage refrigerators complement the decor.

Living rooms have plush sofas, coffee tables, and cushy armchairs, perfect for conversation. I loved the bedrooms which feature a boldly wallpapered accent wall, upholstered headboards, pendant chandeliers, and nightstands with wall-mounted sconce fixtures. Tiled baths are sleek with white faux marble countertops. Capping the look are abstract paintings worthy of a close look.

Access is gained at the rear of the building near the parking lot where you enter a code and haul your gear upstairs to your room. It’s kind of a cool, secret entrance where only close friends could discover your hideout. Don’t expect a concierge or reception attendant. All information arrives via email or text. You simply head to your furnished apartment, enter another door code and let the fun times begin. These are almost like mini condos where you order in or take out as you please.

Why stay at The Lofts? It’s ideal for a family get together because you can book rooms right next to each another. And it’s just walking distance to the downtown corridor of shops, wine rooms, and restaurants. Plus, being a part of the new Paso Market Walk means you can go downstairs for a bowl of ramen or a morning coffee with freshly baked scones.

Paso Robles Highlights: Wineries

They say there are more than 200 wineries in Paso Robles and more than 350 in San Luis Obispo County. Every street sign, road marker and billboard points to the fact that it’s wine country.

Tooth and Nail Winery

Driving along Highway 46 you view the rows of vineyard plantings, but then all of a sudden – whoa- a castle appears in the distance. It’s Tooth and Nail Winery, named as such because the owners proclaim they worked “tooth and nail” to make it succeed. Yup, this is a full-on castle surrounded by a moat and towers. Inside is a sweeping staircase and private tasting areas with velvet chairs and long grand tables for Elizabethan feasting (just fantasizing). Bottle labels are custom designed after European fables such as Don Quixote, and wines are dramatically named: Fragrant Snare, The Possessor, The Fiend.

Allegretto Winery

For a European feel, grab a seat in front of a bubbling fountain and take a sip of the 2016 Tannat, an unusual Italian grape grown by the folks at Allegretto Winery. This rich red wine merits the $18 glass price tag, and your experience here on the calm patio is worth every moment. The same winery where the inn is located offers guests an opportunity to stroll the premises. Visit the abbey for a bit of meditation, walk up the hill and out to the vineyard, where you can admire the many sculptures and see the Paso Robles country views.

Casual Grey Wolf Cellars & Barton Family Wines

Casual Grey Wolf Cellars & Barton Family Wines features a tasting room that is, like many places we discovered, either a renovated farmhouse or a new build. Just completed is an extended patio filled with seating for table groupings. Here you’ll find wines in the Rhone style like an unusual one called the “Danger Zone,” which is made with the whole grape cluster, stems and all.

Justin Winery

A local favorite for years, Justin Winery, another farmhouse, offers a solid and collectible selection of reds and whites. Walk among the lavender plants and peer into the planter boxes to see what veggies and flowers are growing. Their $60 wine and chocolate pairing is memorable. Justin makes its own chocolate, and a box of four pieces goes for $20. Each one is practically a work of art that is true to its description. Consider booking the Justin Chateau, a 12,000-square-foot mansion that sits on a hill over the winery. With four bedrooms, a chef’s kitchen, living room, and library, it’s perfect for an extended stay for up to 10 guests.

Rava Wines

Rava Wines, owned by Chad and Lauren Rava, is the only winery in Paso that creates sparkling wines in the ‘method champenoise’ tradition. Sparing no expense, the owners imported winemaking machinery from Italy. The fact that it’s located on a former training center for Arabian horses adds to the cool factor. Chad Rava is a former rodeo cowboy, and third-generation Paso Robles farmer. Sip near the vines. If it’s not too busy, take a guided tour of the bottling facilities. Or, ride horseback among the vines.

The tasting room and adjacent event center resemble an Italian villa with quintessential stone walls, walkways, arches, and lots of wrought iron. All grapes are estate-grown in Paso Robles and Monterey County. Highly recommended is the sparkling wine flight with a cheese board accompanied by grapes, crackers, olives and French bread. Or get adventurous and order the Morro Bay oysters on the half shell.

Tin City

Recently, an enclave of more than 25 wineries, tasting rooms, and eateries has made its way into a trendy section on the outskirts of town called Tin City. Various warehouse spaces, now include a creamery with sheep’s milk ice cream. You’ll also find an olive oil tasting room, an Italian grocery store, a cidery and at least a dozen wine rooms.

One of them is ONX, a well-regarded winery with over 18 plots of grapes around the region. Sitting outside in this former industrial center, you won’t have those fabulous nature views, so your focus will be on the wine. Order a flight and the wine steward will pour you three glasses, two whites and a rose. Afterward, you’ll be given tiny bottles of the remaining tastings to pour yourself.  In the age of COVID-19, that’s the winery’s new rule. And if you decide to become a member here, you can rent its English cottage at a discount for your return trip.

Paso Robles Highlights: The Culinary Scene

When was the last time you ate a truly, great plate of pasta? At Cello Ristorante, located in the Allegretto Vineyard Inn, it would be criminal to leave without trying the Etto Pasta Carbonara. Guests revere this dish so much that the eatery promised it will never remove it from the menu. The creamy sauce flavored with pancetta melds perfectly with the handmade trumpet pasta. In town, be sure to make reservations at Buena Tavela. This small Italian bistro made a big dent on the culinary scene.

French fare also enjoys popular status in Paso. Small but mighty, the farm-to-table bistro Les Petites Canailles, satisfies cravings for simple moules frites, steamed mussels and fries cooked to perfection

This summer, fulfill your Parisian fantasies in Paso Robles. Toast with a glass of sparkling wine, chow down on a plate of mussels, and slumber deeply in a villa. Then, fingers crossed, you will have saved up for an escape to Europe in 2022.