A Palace, a Penthouse, and an Italian Slice of Heaven

The shoreline of Lake Como, Italy, like the lake itself, is nothing short of overwhelming—the green of the untouched mountains, the centuries old villas, the hidden, almost magical grottos—it’s almost too much to handle.  Taking in all of the beauty and majesty, you can’t help but wonder why anyone would live anywhere but here.  Indeed, beauty and majesty abound.

And holding court over the majestic lake, hugging the shoreline, standing tall in Lake Como’s most magnificent location, is Grand Hotel Tremezzo, a palace that is known as the area’s best and most iconic hotel.  Directly across from Bellagio—which turns out to be a beautiful, charming, cobblestoned village, not just a casino in Vegas—with views of the lake from almost every vantage point, the Grand Hotel Tremezzo is as Lake Como as it gets.  A typical day involves an abundant breakfast on a terrace overlooking the lake, a leisurely stroll through their fairytale-like gardens, a tour around the lake in their private Venetian boat, and a dinner, on the aforementioned terrace, taking in equal parts moonlit scenery and Italian culinary perfection.

For me, Lake Como had always been a dream destination; a see-before-you-die experience.  Yes, I’d heard that it was George Clooney’s second home and a Hollywood favorite, but the pictures I’d seen and the stories I’d heard were really what did it for me.  And then recently, when I was informed that the Lake’s best hotel, Grand Hotel Tremezzo, had just introduced eight new rooftop penthouse suites, and that I could be one of the first ever to sleep in one, I knew the time had come.

The suites sit atop the palace that is Grand Hotel Tremezzo, each offering unparalleled views from their huge, private terraces, complete with Jacuzzis.  They were designed by Vanelli Kramer, and the collection includes three rooftop junior suites, three rooftop corner suites, two rooftop front suites, and a rooftop penthouse that combines with the other suites for up to eight bedrooms and extreme privacy.  Each features a large terrace with Jacuzzi, stunning views, contemporary furnishings with a touch of classic luxury, and unique layouts.  If that’s not enough, guests staying in the rooftop suites have constant access to a personal butler.

My home-away-from-home, a rooftop corner suite, featured such luxuries as a Caesarstone marble bathroom from which I could see the views while soaking in the giant tub, a living room and bedroom that each opened onto the huge terrace, lavish yet cozy décor, ultra-modern technology (should I choose to return to reality for a moment) and sweeping, panoramic views of both the lake and the hotel’s lush gardens.  Each morning I would sip a cappuccino on my terrace while staring out at what has to be one of the most beautiful settings in the world.

Of course there is more to Grand Hotel Tremezzo than just the rooftop suites.  Built in 1910 and family-owned, every aspect is flawless.  There are the other 88 rooms, each with spectacular views, antiques, and timeless décor.  There’s the multi-tiered garden packed with palm trees, flowers, and a hidden pool, appropriately named the flower pool.  There’s the spa, home to yet another swimming pool, this one indoors, looking out onto the lake.  And a third swimming pool, in my opinion the most special in the world, or at least in Italy.  It floats directly on the lake, and ever so gently moves with the calm waves of the lake on which it sits.  There are the lobby, salons, and intimate bars and lounges, each different and equally enchanting, filled with wow-factor and whimsy, grandness and casual elegance.

And last but not least, there are the restaurants, the reason why I came home five pounds heavier, and didn’t care – a breakfast buffet with eggs, cheeses, and produce fresher than anything you’ll ever find in America, and a pizza café nestled within the gardens.  T Beach, a casual lunch spot next to the floating pool, where sand and sunshine create a private, guest-only beach, and  La Terrazza, a terrace overlooking the lake where I gluttonously took in the pasta, the fresh fish, the stars, and the wine with equal pleasure.  And L’Escale Fondue and Wine Bar, an oh-so-charming, stone-walled cellar where I overindulged in fantastic Italian wines, cured meats and cheeses, and savory and sweet fondues, and vowed to move to Lake Como.

In between all the eating and relaxing, I found time to have a private tour around the lake in Tremezzo’s boat, the Ruy, stopping to visit a villa or two and dined at lakeside restaurants all the while viewing the mountains of Switzerland in the distance.  I also found time to shop, sightsee on land, and fall even more madly in love with Lake Como.

I recently heard a passionate Italian chef say, “When an Italian gets to heaven, he will be disappointed.”  Having visited Lake Como, and particularly Grand Hotel Tremezzo, I would have to agree.  So I have no choice but to return there, and once again experience heaven on earth.