The Trip of a Lifetime
“You want me to get in there?” “How old are you?” “You’ve only been flying for how long?” “Is there another way for us to get there? “Can we really fit?” This tiny plane looks like it was borrowed from the Wright Brothers.” The answers are: yes, 21, a few years, no, there’s room for 6.
At this point I’m asking why I should be risking my life and going against every inclination I have to not board that plane. So, what’s the answer? Because I’m going on a South African safari that I’ve dreamed about, planned for and waited close to a year for, and the only way to make these plans materialize is to get on Orville and Wilbur’s plane, close my eyes and pray for the next 30 minute minutes. Now I’m as tough as the next person, but there is something about a 6 seater single prop plane flown by what looks to be a 15 year old boy that makes even the most fearless person think twice. Now that I’ve done it, I’d do it again in a heartbeat to experience the amazing things that happened on a four night safari in the Sabi Sand Reserve, located just outside Kruger National Park in South Africa.
Kruger National Park is South Africa’s largest game reserve and one one of the largest national parks in the world, spanning over 7,000 miles (roughly the size of Massachusetts). It encompasses 220 miles from north to south and 40 miles from east to west. The park was founded in1898 in order to control the mass hunting of game and to protect the rapidly dwindling animal populations. The camps we chose were located in the Sabi Sand Reserve, one of the oldest private game reserves in South Africa which is adjacent to Kruger. There are no fences between Kruger and Sabi Sand which allows the animals to roam freely between the two. By staying in the reserve and not the park, we were allowed private game viewing without having to worry about the numerous visitors that frequent the park.
We chose to go on safari here because Kruger is home to Africa’s Big Five: lion, elephant, rhino, leopard, and buffalo. The phrase “Big Five” was coined by big-game hunters and refers to the five most dangerous animals in Africa to hunt on foot. As an animal lover, a hunting safari was out of the question, and a photographic safari was more my pace. The Big Five share Kruger with many other types of wildlife. In fact, 507 species of birds, 114 species of reptile, 49 species of fish, 147 species of mammals and 34 species of amphibians call Kruger home. I don’t know how these animals are counted, but officially, Kruger is home to 1,500 lions, 12,000 elephants, 5,000 rhino, 1,000 leopards, and 2,500 buffalo. On our safari we were able to see the Big Five plus the rare, almost extinct African hunting dog along with hundreds of other animals. The rangers at our camp made it a personal mission to make sure that each guest got the best shot of the animals and would position the vehicle in almost any location (plowing over trees and parking on the steep side of deep ditches) to ensure this.
From the moment we touched down I knew that this was going to be a trip of a lifetime. We were greeted by a smiling woman honking the horn of her “souped up,” open-air Land Rover, ready to whisk us away into the bush. We decided to split our four day safari into two nights at one camp, and two at another. I strongly recommend this if you are going on safari because you’re really able to see different landscapes, environments, and animals. The two camps we chose were Londolozi and Sabi Sabi. We arrived at Londolozi just in time for an incredible lunch and I would add that I never expected to eat or drink so well. I quickly learned that their fresh, organic cuisine was just another one of the many surprises this camp offers.
I didn’t realize that a safari involved such a strict schedule, but it most certainly does, and the schedule has been perfected over the 80 plus years these camps have been open. The game viewing schedule varies based upon the season and we went in November which is spring, great because we had the precious opportunity to view the animals with their newborns. We heard that winter is the optimum time to go as the trees are barren and it’s easier to spot the animals. It gets cold in the winter though, so make sure to prepare for that if you chose to go then. A tentative springtime schedule looks something like this:
- 4:45am-Wake up “call” from your ranger
- 5:00am-Meet your ranger for coffee, tea, and freshly baked breads and muffins
- 5:30am-First game drive
- 8:30am-Stop to enjoy a cup of coffee in a scenic spot
- 9:30am- Breakfast
- 10:30am-Bush Walk
- 12:00pm-Relaxation (yoga, napping, journaling, spa)
- 1:30pm- Lunch
- 2:30pm-Visit to a local town
- 4:00pm- High Tea
- 4:15pm-Sunset game drive
- 7:00pm-“Sundowner” drinks in the bush (African “cocktail hour”)
- 7:30pm Fireside Banquet Dinner
The 4:45am wake up call did take some getting used to, but by the end of our safari, we completely understood the lure of the early morning game drive. Starting our day before sunrise in one of the world’s largest animal reserves was described to us by our guide as “taking part in the daily miracle.” Any amount of sleep pales in comparison to being able to see the animals when they are most active, hunting, running, playing, swimming, and pouncing. By 7:30 in the morning, the cool air is replaced with warmer, denser air, causing the animals become lethargic until the sun sets.For the entire stay at each of these camps, each guest is paired with a ranger and a tracker that will be with them on every game drive. The ranger is an incredibly experienced, well educated individual that has either learned about the bush during many years of schooling, or learned about it first hand having grown up there. The rangers can and do answer almost any question posed to them, and have endless stories to share about their experiences. The trackers are the individuals that sit on the outside of the Land Rovers in specially designed seats that are placed on the hood.
A tracker’s job is to do just that: track the animals. The trackers are experienced individuals that have learned the skill of looking for tracks (in mud, on a path, in a tree) from generations prior. Each drive can almost be “customized,” for example, if you just want to see lions, then the ranger will go out looking in an area where there are lions. If it’s a leopard or hippos you want to see, the ranger will go on a mission until that animal is spotted. The rangers communicate with each other via radios, so that if one ranger is out and finds a pride of lions, he or she will immediately call it over to the other rangers. The rangers are sneaky though. So as to not spoil the surprise for the guests, they’ll speak to each other in a local dialect so that it’s uncertain what animal is within range. Our camps were also considerate in limiting six guests to a Land Rover and no more than two around an animal at one time. This really heightens the individual experience.
We took a total of 8 game drives (two a day), and each was a completely different adventure. After getting used to the rhythm, it’s tempting to consider passing up a drive to catch up on sleep, but I can’t stress enough that you avoid that temptation. While it seems like each morning begins exactly the same on the same road, within minutes it can change completely if a tracker spots fresh tracks or movement in the bush. One morning we spent the bulk of it watching a leopard cub patiently stalk, startle, and unsuccessfully attempt to kill an impala. Later that same day, we saw his mother lounging in a tree as if she was waiting to have her picture taken. We also saw endless zebras, giraffes, and monkeys, dozens of elephants of all sizes playing, eating, sleeping and lounging plus hippos, rhinos, water buffalo and impalas. Above all, the favorite naturally was the lion. On average, lions sleep for 20 hours a day yet somehow we were able to find extremely active lion prides that included mothers and cubs, ones sharpening their claws for a big hunt, some climbing trees, and even massive “big daddy” lions watching the pride from afar. A safari not only gives you an appreciation for these beautiful creatures and their habitat, but what we learned from the rangers about each animal in four days is impressive.
Evening drives were unforgettable. To watch the sunset on the bush while drinking a “sundowner” (what South Africans call drinks that are consumed around the time the sun goes down) in one hand and your binoculars in another is a surreal feeling. Once the sunset ends, a red spot light is used to help find the reflecting eyes of the nocturnal hunters. One evening our tracker spotted 8 sets of glowing eyes, a pride of lions getting ready for their evening kill. The ranger positioned us a close 10 feet away which I was uneasy with at first, though she and the tracker explained that as long as we sat in the truck they wouldn’t bother us. The animals are used to the trucks having grown up with them but if you’re a nervous nelly like myself, the rangers do keep a loaded rifle at the ready “just in case.”
With game drives planned for early morning and late afternoon, the bulk of one’s day is left wide open. These camps offer a range of activities for thrill seekers (a run in the bush, clay pigeon shooting, walking expeditions, soccer with the staff, and fishing), and also couch potatoes (outdoor yoga, massage, onsite library). One special day we toured a local Shangaan village. The Shangaan are a large tribe living mainly in southern Mozambique in Maputo and in Gaza Province. However, there is also a large grouping near Sabi Sands, in the Limpopo Province. What an amazing experience it is to spend some time with these people and learn how they live, work, and play. We passed an elementary school in session and were welcomed in by the teacher. As soon the children saw us they began singing various American pop songs they knew by heart and showed us the arts and crafts projects they were working on. The time spent there gave me more insight into local culture. Some of the Sabi Sands staff are Shangaan and I left the village with an even greater appreciation for the guides and trackers.
The bush walk or foot safari also took some getting used to as guests are required to leave the safety of the Land Rover behind and walk in line with the ranger in front and the tracker in back both armed with a rifle or machete. To set foot on the soil, smell the fresh air, and listen to nothing but the sounds of the wildlife is an incredible experience, one that is intimidating and yet such an adrenaline rush. The tracker would pick various leaves and flowers and explain how the bush has “all the medicine they need.” The ranger would also point out the birds and insects that are such an important part of the ecosystem. Feeling the wind blowing through the trees and being among the most dangerous predators in the world is something not to be missed. About halfway into it, we thought back to the rule we were told that as long as we stayed in the truck we were safe. Hmm.
Mealtime is an experience as well and I wrongly assumed that our options would be limited. We awoke to freshly baked breads, homemade jams and jellies, and freshly made steel cut oatmeal. Upon returning from drives we were served omelets made to order accompanied by an entire bar of fresh juices. Lunch was usually an assortment of local, fresh salads, meats, and cheeses. High tea brought on delicious, hot sweets and brewed local coffees. All the meals were great but dinner was most certainly the grand finale. Served underneath the stars alongside a roaring bonfire, tables were dressed in white linens with glowing lanterns as centerpieces. Some evenings featured simple, authentic South African cuisine while others were full blown five star affairs, with a five course dinner paired with wine and champagne. A pastry chef prepared intricate desserts and pastries accompanied by cordials, or a cigar smoked underneath the stars.
When it was time to leave I was ready. Four nights and four very full, action-packed days was enough. Before flying to Johannesburg, we were again dropped at another tiny airstrip to board yet another tiny plane. This time I was an old pro and kept my eyes open the entire way because I knew that this had been a once in a lifetime trip and I didn’t want to miss a single thing.
Where to Stay:
Londolozi: Luxurious reserve with excellent game viewing located in the private Sabi Sand Game Reserve. Londolozi is one of the oldest lodges, with an 83 year history. +27 11 280 6655; www.londolozi.com
Sabi Sands: This award winning private game reserve offers world-class standards in luxury accommodations, exceptional close wildlife encounters, personal service and delicious cuisine. +27 11 447-7172; www.sabisabi.com
Mala Mala: Epitomizes an authentic safari experience that originated at a time when the safari was simple: unassuming camps, sweeping plains, the African sky, and when Mala Mala was the largest private big five game reserve in South Africa. + 27 11 442 2267; www.malamala.com
Comprehensive Travel Agencies:
*I highly recommend using a travel group to help coordinate your safari experience. Even for a seasoned traveler, South Africa is not easy to navigate, and using a tour operator that specializes in safari experiences will make your planning process and your trip so much more enjoyable. Simply, pick up the phone, tell the agent your budget, how long you want to go, and what area you are interested in visiting and the rest (intra-Africa flights, ground transportation, lodge reservations, any special requests, etc) will be arranged for you.
Game Plan Africa specializes in game viewing and photographic safaris into the countries of East Africa (Kenya, Rwanda, Tanzania, and Uganda) and Southern Africa (Botswana, Malawi, Namibia, South Africa, Zambia, and Zimbabwe) and the Indian Ocean islands. They are great about working within certain budgets and are able to organize customized travel for singles, couples and families. I worked with Game Plan Africa and can’t say enough about how pleased I was with them. 1-800-593-1148. (Tell Glenda I sent you!) www.gameplanafrica.com