Fish Markets to Seven-Star Hotels

It’s futuristic, fantastic, glamorous — a fascinating place for a stopover if you’re flying to Asia.  On a recent visit to Sri Lanka, we decided to break up the long journey and check out the capital of the U Arab Emirates, the largest and wealthiest of the seven emirates that make up the U.A.E. We had visited neighboring Dubai years ago, long before it was “on the map,” as they say. Like Dubai back then, construction and progress run rampant in Abu Dhabi, where silhouettes of sleek, modern skyscrapers cut into the desert sky.

“For a time, both emirates seemed locked in a battle to build the most glittering skyline,” noted an article in Global Traveler. “But lately, Abu Dhabi has repositioned itself as New York to Dubai’s LA, serving as the cultural heart of the U.A.E., while Dubai’s economy is centered largely on real estate.” Nonetheless, Abu Dhabi does have its share of tourist attractions, but nothing of great interest was within walking distance of our hotel. Fortunately taxis are reasonable, and our driver, Mohammed, an Indian from Kerala, took us to the sights. He told us he was just one of the many foreign residents that make up 65% of the population, fifty percent of which are Indians, the majority from Kerala in the southern part of the country.

Abu Dhabi’s piece de resistance and top attraction is the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque, a dazzling edifice of domes, minarets, and reflecting pools, incorporating crystal, marble and exotic materials from all corners of the globe. Elements of Moroccan, Persian, and Arab styles blend in this monumental beauty, which has a capacity for 41,000 worshipers. Look down to admire the world’s largest carpet; look up at seven dazzling gold and crystal chandeliers. Non-Muslim visitors are welcome, and like all females, I was given a blue abaya to wear. We wandered around with many others, taking pictures while Mohammed went to pray.

Emirates Palace, billed as a “7 star luxury hotel,” is another must-see. Tourists are free to explore cavernous public areas of the $3 billion hotel and marvel at the abundance of gold leaf and marble. After sipping a pricy coffee in the posh surroundings, I asked where the gold bar vending machine was (mentioned in a New York Times article), only to be informed it had been removed.  Pity – that was my souvenir of choice!

Markets are my passion so naturally I asked Mohammed to show us the fish market. I envisioned a collection of stalls with fishermen selling their catches, but instead we found a huge warehouse with aisle after aisle of sea creatures in all sizes, shapes, and varieties. Continuing to the date market, another vast structure with nothing but dates of many different kinds, we sampled a chocolate covered one – exquisite.  Then it was on to Heritage Village, an old fortress with Bedouin tents and old stone houses, where the Abu Dhabi of bygone days has been recreated. Artisans are at work in many enclosures; I spied a purse in the leather workshop and tried to bargain with the shopkeeper, who was attired in the long traditional Muslim robe. I assumed he was a native. Not so: He too was from India. Foreign workers (and we met many) come to Abu Dhabi, where earnings are good, and work for several years, saving, only to return home, a Nigerian taxi driver explained. He had a degree, but there were no jobs for him in Nigeria.

Shopping and amusement parks are other Abu Dhabi favorites. Yas Island is home to Waterworld, a Florida-style theme park with water rides, as well as Ferrari World, where you can ride the world’s fastest roller coaster.  The Formula Rossa reaches speeds of almost 150 mph in less than five seconds and recreates the Formula 1 driving experience. Here you can also shop one of the world’s largest shopping centers or at one of the many malls closer to town for everything from electronics to clothes and jewelry. For up market shopping, it’s The Galleria on Al Marya Island, featuring all the luxury brands, from Balenciaga to Bulgari, as well as trendy cafes and restaurants. 

Visitors to Abu Dhabi in the near future will enjoy major attractions on Saadiyat Island (Happiness Island), a $27 billion project that will include the first outpost of the Louvre outside Paris, a Frank Gehry designed Guggenheim museum, and more. The Louvre is supposed to open this year, although no date has been set. The island will also feature beach resorts, some of which are already open. Alas, the fall in oil prices has delayed the completion of these showpieces. Abu Dhabi has about a tenth of the world’s oil reserves which accounts for its wealth. But, the reserves are declining, so the emirate is preparing for life without oil. Masdar City, a $22 billion project currently under construction, aims to create the world’s first carbon-neutral city powered almost entirely by solar and other renewable energy sources. Driverless vehicles will be the mode of transport for its automated public transportation system.

Abu Dhabi is more than just a big city. Uninhabited spaces and massive sand dunes stretch to the border of Saudi Arabia, and on the Oman border is the oasis city of Al Ain, a burst of lush greenery in the desert. Visitors can experience the desert hinterland with popular dune-bashing tours, which was definitely the highlight of our Dubai visit years ago. You ride in a 4 X 4 with a daredevil driver determined to provide plenty of thrills as he powers the vehicle straight up a dune at full speed, then veers for a quick downhill run. I remember thinking we would surely topple over. More than once we got stuck, but he had the skills and knew the tricks to free us, having a great time all the while. We were bounced, jilted, and bumped, but it was hilarious fun. Sunset dune trips usually include the chance to ride a camel, get a grip on falconry, and henna painting. You can even try sand skiing or snowboarding. After the desert activity, enjoy a barbecue around a campfire at dusk and marvel at the magnificent star-filled sky. Belly dancers are an integral part of these desert dinners and most tour companies feature them.

Summers are scorchers in Abu Dhabi, with temperatures often reaching 104 degrees from June to August. November through March is the ideal time to visit. We found the people, namely foreign workers, all super friendly and helpful, and most spoke English. I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention that alcoholic beverages are only served in international hotels, but sans drink, there are all manner of ethnic restaurants abound. We tried Thai, Italian, Middle Eastern, and French. See my suggestions following.

The country code for the UAE is 971, for Abu Dhabi, 971-2.