In Miami’s South Beach, the Lincoln Road pedestrian mall is a nightly magnet for the tanned and the beautiful, with one phenomenal restaurant after another fronting the scenic promenade. If you’re spending a few days there, all the dining choices can easily become a quandary with a decision difficult to make. I’ll let you in on a little secret. Beyond the fringe of Lincoln on its Western end is a charming block where you’ll find Altamare, the “find” in the neighborhood and a place that’s humming.
The term ‘hook-to-table’ has been taken to heart at Altamare, a South Beach dining mainstay where locals and foodies alike flock for fresh and exceptional food. Don’t let the off-the-beaten-tourist-path venue scare you; a short hop across Alton Road, the end of the mall, will bring some serenity. Sure, you might be leaving behind the glamorized shops but instead you’ll be face to face with a favorite residential seafood hub that serves food that keeps its loyal customers coming back for more.
Owned by Claudio Giordano, Altamare had a total makeover in 2010 when it moved up the block to a bigger space in order to accommodate the demand. Tripling its former size, the move allowed designer Juan Carlos Arcila-Duque to create a new look for the restaurant. The result is a casually cool demeanor with a hint of elegance. The copper-tile ceiling compliments the muted lighting for most of the 120 seats, though a few of the seats are centralized outside for enjoying the Miami weather. Sitting in a high-backed chair, you can see how the white tablecloth demands the mannerisms of a refined dining room but the full-service bar and open kitchen outlined in natural stones and oversized drum pendant lamps overhead offer a more playful vibe. The black-and-white framed photography that seems to pop against the pale walls are the final touches of Altamare’s new look. A chef’s table and a private dining room that seats 24 are also available.
In accordance with the unspoken Miami restaurant rule, Altamare has to keep up appearances as a trendy modern establishment (it’s in South Beach, after all). But the great thing about Altamare is its food isn’t pretentious. Inspiration comes from the nearby ocean rather than the South Beach diet. The down to earth cuisine parallels executive chef Simon Stojanovic’s respect for cooking with locally sourced products. Finessing his skills cooking at Alta Mar over the past nine years, Stojanovic was appointed head chef for the new Altamare. He honed his culinary talents at an array of places, from Caribbean shores to Parisian high-end kitchens. But his main inspiration comes from just around the corner: local farms and fishermen. The menu changes on a daily basis because it is dependent on what products the farms are selling and what fish the fishermen catch that day.
With a focus on seafood and innovative Italian-American cuisine, Altamare offers a variety of dishes. We began with the best breadsticks! “And the award goes to …” Who knew that Florida could do breadsticks right? The rest of the meal was equally enjoyable and delicious. Those who consider themselves “culinary adventurous” types, try something on the menu we bet you’ve never heard of, like the “Wahoo” krudo. The warm artichoke, gigante bean & arugula salad paired beautifully with the freshness of the fish. Our awesome server Jesse recommended the octopus, bragging it had been cooked for 5 1/2 hours for maximum tenderness. We couldn’t argue. A terracotta seafood pot was brimming with an assortment of delicious seafood, hearty but with a broth that was incredibly light and free of heavy oil. The menu also features ravioli with mushrooms and the tenderest short ribs served with pickled peppers and mashed turnips, a tribute to free-range organic meat and locally grown vegetables. The majority of the dishes, including ceviches and carpaccios, have a tropical citrus accent that really brings out the rest of the ingredients.
And for dessert, well, we would’ve liked to give pastry chef Michelle Cabrera a standing ovation. A Deconstructed Tiramisu was daring and phenomenal, an absolute success. The sportive twist on the classic PB&J was also delicious, with roasted peanut butter mousse, banana cake, kumquat jam, and wild blueberry sorbet. Something else we found equally sweet was the staff, all warm and fuzzy and helpful, to boot, especially Frank, the manager.
Giordano really took a risk with all the changes. After all, Alta Mar was a neighborhood staple before the move. Maybe it’s the new head chef or perhaps the larger space or could it be the new ‘e’ added to its name? Whatever it is, the seafood restaurant a stone’s throw from the “Mall” is making a name for itself again.
Alta Mare
1233 Lincoln Road
Miami Beach, Fl. 33139
305-532-3061
www.altamarerestaurant.com