Escaping to Aruba

I’m sure I’m not alone when I say I’ve fantasized about throwing in the towel and moving to a tropical island. You know, one of those picture-perfect beaches spread across the travel magazines, comprised of two parts sugary sand, one part bright blue sea, and 100% get-your-groove-back.

I had a bad case of the New York blues and was looking to get out of town. Where was my cool boyfriend to steal me away on a romantic Caribbean adventure? There was no cool boyfriend in sight.

I did some research on Aruba and knew it was just what I needed. Aruba surpasses even the fantasy island of my dreams: miles of beaches, snorkeling amid reefs and curvy cacti, and temperatures averaging a mind-boggling sunny 82∫F the entire year. Plus, its location outside the hurricane belt appeals to the disaster-averse part of me. All I needed was a passport, flip flops and a willingness to settle into island life. If Aruba lived up to the hype, maybe I wouldn’t even want a boyfriend anymore. In Aruba, I might have found a life partner.

As my plane dips down toward Beatrix International Airport, I’m overjoyed to find the Caribbean Sea is as beautiful as I dreamed it would be. One can’t overuse adjectives here: the seawater is bright and clear; it shimmers like liquefied gemstones; it’s crystal blue; it’s azure. It’s wonderful unlike anything I’ve ever seen and I can’t wait to jump into it.

Straightaway I encounter the island’s signature “trade winds” – healthy, easterly gusts. The winds are infamous for mangling hairdos and even reshaping the Aruban landscape (if you’re lost, it’s said you can follow the bend of the Divi-divi trees, which, thanks to the wind, all point to the western, hotel-laden side of the island). They also function as a refreshing fan, continually cooling down this beach-y island which, in truth, is primarily desert. Just don’t let that breeze fool you; the sun is hot, you’re very near the Equator and it’s very easy to get sunburned. Lather sunscreen frequently and at a high protection level, lest you become overly rosy or potentially room ridden.

All that heat makes you want to head for the water. Fortunately, options ranging from “lots of energy required” to just “flopping down on the beach” abound. For active adventurers, scuba diving is the way to go. Aruba is rife with coral reefs, electric-colored fish, even shipwrecks, and diving lets you get in deep with its underwater bounty. JADS Dive Center, on the south side of the island, comes well recommended. More personalized and less harried than some of the other dive facilities, JADS offers classes ranging from “bubblemaker” (for the little ones) to “divemaster.” Whatever your level, instructors here make sure participants have an exhilarating, safe, and memorable experience.

Another fun and very unique way to get under water (without the hassle of certification) is via “Sea Trek.” Remember that kooky cartoon from the ’80s, the Snorks? Sea Trek, available at De Palm Island, basically turns you into a Snork. You put on a bubble-like, oxygen-filled helmet and then, with the help of a diver, climb down a ladder 20 feet below sea level. Once on the ground, you feed fish, walk around (albeit very slowly) and ham it up for the diver’s camera. Sea Trek is not for the timid; it helps if you swig a piña colada or two before embarking on your journey.

Which brings me to the next tier of water activities: boozing. As with most Caribbean islands, Aruba offers ample opportunities to party. Many of its resorts and activities are “all-inclusive,” meaning the food and drinks are prepaid for and thus unlimited. One worthy, all-inclusive seafaring trip is Red Sail Sports’ “Antilla Snorkel Sail.” Between low-key snorkeling stops, patrons lounge on a catamaran and imbibe frozen drinks (one, called the “Green Iguana,” looks like a liquefied Ninja Turtle and tastes like coconut milk). Best are the cushy mats that are positioned on deck in such a manner that you can lay out, look down, and watch the water moving beneath you; it’s the lazy man’s snorkel.

The active man’s snorkel is pretty damn fun, too. Strap on some flippers (make sure you walk down the steps backwards so as not to fall over), put on a rubbery mask (no spitting required!), and traipse around the water like a mermaid or in my case, like a flounder (I’m a terrible swimmer). Glistening fishes will swim about you, and it’s quite possible you’ll glimpse some coral, or perhaps an old shipwreck.

Of all the fabulous water sports, however, simply beach bumming might be the best gig in town. Aruba is literally surrounded by phenomenal beaches that are just right for jumping, plunging, diving, and sunning. Two particularly worthy spots are Eagle Beach, to the southwest, and Baby Beach, on the island’s Eastern tip.

Eagle Beach is lauded as one of the world’s greatest beaches, and a visit to its gloriousness is like walking into a living travel photograph. Here, the sand is a powdery soft white, and the waves that splash it undulate peacefully. Sun worshippers lounge but do not crowd the beach, aglow with serenity as well as UV rays.

The name “Baby” Beach is right-on: this sandy hideaway, removed from the island’s more touristy spots, surrounds a scenic shallow bay that’s particularly nice for kids or beginning swimmers. A tasty snack bar sits nearby.

If you want to check out Aruba’s inland scenery, Arikok National Park should be foremost on your list. Dry, blustery, and brimming with cacti, it’s a lovely place to spend an afternoon. The best way to view it is with Eddy Croes and his “Aruba Nature Sensitive” Jeep tour. Definitely a highlight of my trip, the tour enabled me to see a side of island life that I probably wouldn’t have come across any other way. Cruising around in a hot, open-air Jeep, I saw lonely beaches, learned a little geology, and visited a lively fisherman’s bar and hangout called Zee Rover (translation: “the Pirate”). Eddy was head park ranger at Arikok for a long time, and his knowledge of secret sand dunes, Watapana trees, and donkeys is boundless. As with most Arubans, he speaks a minimum of four languages (Papiamento, the island’s sing song native tongue, Dutch, English, and Spanish). Touring with Eddy, you can be sure you won’t ever lack for translation or entertainment.

The unofficial slogan of Aruba is “One Happy Island.” Stamped on every license plate, this blissful attitude is also felt on the beaches, and with its affable residents. During my stay in Aruba, I definitely became One Happy Islander. But for now, I think I’m just going to leave it at that. Maybe Manhattan, with all its stress and angst (One Anxious Island?), is my true life partner. Maybe not. Still, it’s nice to know that if New York and I have another disagreement, the Caribbean Sea is out there, tempting me to cannonball into its boundless turquoise perfection.