Auckland, City of Sails

Of all the big cities I’ve lived in so far (including both New York and London), Auckland is my favorite – hands down.  Where else can you go sailing after work, stroll a beach less than an hour’s drive away (think Karekare Beach of The Piano fame) and bask in a winter that’s warm and without snow?  And let’s not forget the abundance of fresh seafood, a fascinating indigenous culture and world class vineyards in close vicinity.  OK, I’ll stop. Auckland is New Zealand’s largest city, home to 1.4million people or about a third of the country’s population. It’s a mix of islands, glistening harbors and urban sophistication that’s inspired a lifestyle which regularly ranks among the world’s Top Ten.

Auckland is a relatively young town, compared to say London or Tokyo. While Polynesians were settled in New Zealand from as early as 1250, the first non-Māori contact didn’t occur until Dutch explorer Abel Tasman sighted the island in 1642, followed by  Captain James Cook  who charted the country’s coastline in 1769.  The Māori name for Auckland is Tamaki-Makau-Rau or ‘the maiden with a hundred suitors’ because the region was coveted by many tribes. Māori names such as Waiheke Island (descending waters), Waitemata Harbor (sparkling waters) or Manukau City (wading birds) reflect the indigenous culture to this day.

For a glimpse at Maori artifacts, head to the Auckland War Memorial Museum which houses the largest and most valuable collection of Māori taonga (treasures) in New Zealand. Entry is free for adults. Furthermore, cultural performances are staged several times a day, including the world famous haka (warrior dance).  The museum is located in the Auckland Domain, a big park which is used regularly for outdoor events.

Auckland is the only city in the world that is built on an active volcano field and while that might be of some concern, the various cones make for fantastic viewing platforms. The easiest to access from the city center is Mt Eden which was utilized as a fortified hill in pre-European times by various Māori tribes.  At 643 ft. this dormant volcano offers expansive views across the city, the North Shore and over to Rangitoto Island. With a bowl-like crater around 164 ft. deep, the earth ramparts and terraces contribute to the distinctive outline of the hill. Whereas Mt Eden was fully accessible until 2006, coaches now have to stop halfway up the mountain to preserve the site.

Another good viewing spot and favored BBQ location for locals is One Tree Hill. This cone is marginally smaller than Mt Eden but surrounded by a big city park. Atop it stands an obelisk with a bronze Māori Warrior. When Auckland was founded as a colonial town, a tree stood near the summit which gave the hill its name. However, various acts of vandalism by Māori activists now find the site without a tree, causing Aucklanders to refer to it as None Tree Hill.

No stay in Auckland, also called the City of Sails, is complete without heading out on the water. This can be a short ferry ride from the Central Business District (CBD) to the posh suburb of Devonport on the city’s North Shore or a longer three-hour Whale and Dolphin Safari in the Hauraki Gulf, considered one of the most biologically and geographically diverse marine parks in the world. Dolphins are viewed on over 90% of trips, and whales on 75%.

Auckland claims to have more boats per head of population than any other city and there is always maritime traffic in the harbor. For a full hands-on trip on water, I recommend the America’s Cup Sailing Experience where you can race an original competition yacht and are invited to steer the vessel and join the grinders (quite a workout!).  Or you just lay back and take in the sights of the coastline.

Another water activity is kayaking to Rangitoto Island (rentals available in Mission Bay), Auckland’s iconic natural landmark. With its distinctive symmetrical cone and proximity to the city, it’s no wonder that a trip to this 600-year-old volcano is one of the city’s most popular activities. While on island, walk through native pohutukawa forest, see lava caves and panoramic city views from the summit at 853ft above sea level. Interestingly, although the island’s lava field contains no soil in the usual sense of the word, 200-plus species of native trees and flowering plants, 40 fern and several orchid species grow there.

With an abundance of coastline come multitudes of beaches and it’s pretty common for locals to go for a quick dip after work in summer. Just a scenic fifteen minute trip along Tamaki Drive, Mission Bay is the most accessible beach from downtown Auckland. Combining a sheltered white sand beach with grassy areas, a vibrant strip of cafés, restaurants and bars is conveniently located right across the road. If you’re seeking solitude, a 45minute drive will take you to the unspoiled beaches of the Waitakere Ranges Regional Park. Here vast stretches of volcanic black sand are framed by dramatic rocky terrain and surfers of all ages are drawn to the best waves around Auckland.

Kiwis, as the people of New Zealand call themselves, are happiest outdoors and let’s face it, nobody moves here for a career and big money. It’s all about the lifestyle and even in the big cities like Auckland, Wellington, and Christchurch, great outdoor adventures are just around the corner. Auckland’s rugged west coast is the perfect place for canyoning. Deep in the heart of the rainforest, explorers can rappel down waterfalls, jump off cliffs into deep pools and slide down smooth natural hydro slides.

Back in the city, the Skytower is a major draw for daredevils. At 1076 ft., the tallest structure in the southern hemisphere, the tower is the place to “skyjump” or “skywalk” around a metal platform. While I successfully completed the latter, albeit on a rather windy day, I could not bring myself to throw myself off the tower (Darwinian survival instincts kicked in). At a lesser height but promising the same amount of adrenaline, Auckland’s iconic harbor bridge provides additional adventure options. Here you can climb over, under and bungee-jump from the spectacular bridge which is a lifeline for many motorists but also a source of despair due to its daily congestion.

Auckland has more than 80 vineyards producing chardonnay, merlot and cabernet sauvignon wines. The best-known region is arguably Waiheke Island, a short 40-minute ferry ride from the CBD, and known for its quality Bordeaux-style red wines. With approximately 27 boutique vineyards and wineries, Waiheke Island is one of New Zealand’s award-winning wine growing regions.  Known for producing flavorsome drops from mainly cabernet sauvignon, merlot, Malbec, cabernet franc and chardonnay grape varieties, Waiheke wines are characterized by the stony soil that lies beneath and the sea breeze that blows.

Local winery Stonyridge produces ‘Larose’ – one of the world’s top 20 cabernet blends and New Zealand’s most expensive wine (NZD$290). Most wineries and vineyards here have cellar doors and on-site cafés or restaurants that you can explore on tours or even by bike or scooter, making the island a perfect getaway if you love food and a good drop.

Auckland’s culinary scene reflects the proximity to quality sea and land produce, and multicultural influences. Many restaurants offer ‘Pacific Rim’ cuisine, fusing Pacific and Asian flavors. For a taste of real kiwi food try dishes with lamb, venison, salmon, crayfish, lobster, Pacific fish, Bluff oysters, paua (abalone), mussels, scallops, pipis and tuatua (New Zealand shellfish), kumara (sweet potato), kiwifruit, tamarillo, feijoa, and manuka honey.

You’ll be spoiled considering all the choices in Auckland’s 900 restaurants ranging from haute cuisine at chic restaurants to trendy suburban brasseries, inner-city cafés and bars. One more thing for the food bucket list while here is a “flat white” coffee. While there is some debate as to the difference between a New Zealand flat white and the Australian one, a true flat white should have the same quantity of extracted coffee as any other coffee beverage on the menu (generally 30ml) but because it’s served in a smaller vessel (175ml) it has a stronger flavor than a typical latte which is normally served in a 225ml vessel.

The consistency of the milk is another point of difference here, too – a latte has a creamy, velvety layer of milk on the surface which can vary in depth depending on where you buy your coffee. A flat white has a thinner band of the textured milk, ideally with a shinier surface. New Zealand has more roasters per capita than anywhere else; and some even argue that it also has the best coffee in the world – another reason why Auckland is my favorite big city in the world!