Barbados, situated in the southern Atlantic, is the most easterly of the Caribbean islands, set off on its own as though wanting to be different. It surely is, this “Little England,” as some call it. After more than 300 years of British rule, Barbados, independent since 1966, is a delightful mix of pretty Colonial architecture, quaint gardens, proper British etiquette and endless cricket, intermixed with West Indian and African colors and culture. Throw in a tropical climate and miles of white sandy beaches and Little England becomes, well, a little different than other Caribbean islands but one to be experienced. I’ve had it on my bucket list for years and at long last, my bucket brimmed.
I canvassed the “Platinum Coast,” the west coast that features a preponderance of the island’s resorts. There, breezy trade winds moderate the tropical heat. From the Colony Club, a swank boutique resort, I embarked upon a small boat that motored in search of friendly turtles. A group of us then splashed into the warm waters and quickly became fodder for hawksbills. Turtles were gliding by, careening and swirling about as though we humans were the show while they were the curious audience to us marine interlopers. Surely my “flippers” must have looked under-developed and my mask like bug’s eyes to them. But from my human perspective, having traveled the Caribbean over, hands-down these were the friendliest turtles I’ve ever encountered in the wild. Young girls on paddleboards, a kayaker, and a jet skier soon arrived to join the turtling scene. This was no ordinary snorkeling adventure; things are different in Barbados.
While that was a welcoming water experience, topside things are not much different since Bajans, as the locals are known, are exceptionally friendly. They’re also extremely well mannered and very well educated, making for quite the civilized island experience. Guest services are warm and genuine whether at a fine restaurant like Daphne’s — sister to Daphne’s of London — or at Oistins fish fry, a Friday night ritual of insanity on the south end of the island. In the case of the latter, hundreds upon hundreds of people, locals and visitors alike, throng to this weekly spectacle featuring brightly colored food stalls, an overabundance of rum punches and beer, dancing, a crafts market, old-timers playing dominos and more. It’s a must on any visit to Barbados if only for the adrenaline of the scene.
A Platinum Coast
Most tourists visit a tropical island for relaxation and sunning, and Barbados offers plenty of opportunity for both. There are three main towns along the Platinum Coast, which from north to south are Speightstown, Holetown and the capital of Bridgetown. Many of the finest resorts are on the coast near to Holetown, like The House, a chichi adults-only resort that exudes just the type of elegant tranquility and peace that I long for … champagne breakfasts, sun loungers on the beach, and high thread-count sheets. But with three children, it isn’t in my plans. Instead, located nearby on a gorgeous stretch of beach is the Tamarind Resort, where I stay. It has a complimentary kids club and teen lounge — and pools including one that is adults-only for those wanting to escape said kids and teens. The resort also offers complimentary watersports such as banana-boating, waterskiing, paddle boarding and sailing, something for just about everyone in the family. Adjacent is the all-suite Treasure Beach resort, which features some luxurious suites with private plunge pools. Resort options abound up and down the Platinum Coast.
Since Holetown is midway along the Barbados coast, it’s an easy launching spot from which to explore the island. I rented a mini-moke one day, a small open-air car resembling a dune buggy, which is quite fun to drive as long as it doesn’t rain. Unless you book a tour, a car is a necessity for exploring the northeastern side of the island, which is a must-do; it’s the wild side of Barbados where the Atlantic Ocean meets the Caribbean Sea. High cliffs rise above dramatic, swirling waters and howling winds attract world-champion windsurfers, kite boarders and tourists looking to aim a camera at stunning vistas from hilltops such as North Point and Cherry Tree Hill.
Plantation Homes & Gardens
Near Cherry Tree Hill is a popular historic attraction, St. Nicholas Abbey, a sugar plantation dating to 1658 named after an English abbey. Visitors can peruse the lovely great house, wander the grounds where green monkeys scamper about, as well as tour the steam mill and distillery that still handcraft fine Barbadian rum to this day. Tastings are included in plantation tours. Also close is the Barbados Wildlife Reserve where, in addition to plentiful monkeys, especially at 2 p.m. feeding time, there are freely roaming deer, peacocks, turtles and more.
Barbados, of course, wouldn’t live up to its name of Little England without an abundance of gardens. In addition to the lush grounds at numerous plantation homes open to visitors, there is an ample selection of other horticultural delights: Flower Forest Botanical Gardens and Hunte’s Gardens are both in St. Joseph’s parish (Barbados is divided geographically into parishes, much like counties) and are filled with exotic tropical flowers like torch ginger lilies and African tulips, and fruit trees like mango and avocado. And in the middle of the island is Orchid World with over 30,000 of the flowers for a brilliant and aromatic display.
Excursions Down Under
While beaches and gardens offer relaxation topside, the biggest tourist attraction on Barbados is down under. Way down under. Harrison’s Caves has miles of massive subterranean caves. I joined one of their solar-powered tram tours, which whisked a group of us on a spectacular underground journey. We passed bubbling streams, cascading waterfalls and underground pools, all amidst a forest of illuminated stalactites and stalagmites; the tram allows riders to disembark at a few intervals.
Also down under off of Barbados — that is in the ocean — is one of the Caribbean’s largest wrecks, the Stavronikita, a 365-foot World War II Greek freighter. It’s one of the better Caribbean wrecks, which I can attest to having perused its massive decks at a depth of about 100 feet. I was on a guided tour with Hightide Watersports, a dive operator located adjacent to the Colony Club. Though the Stavronikita is for experienced scuba divers, Barbados has shallower wrecks, as well as pretty diving and snorkeling along gently sloping coral reefs where fish are plentiful.
For those not keen on diving or snorkeling, Atlantis Submarines offers an easier way to see colorful reefs with undersea voyages leaving out of Bridgetown. Consider a nighttime excursion to see a kaleidoscope of surreal colors — and possibly a passing octopus. Close to the Atlantis dock is also the Mount Gay distillery, the Barbados rum that they say “invented rum” starting in 1703. Legend has it that salty sailors would bring the drink back from Barbados to Britain as proof (86 proof) that they had successfully crossed the Atlantic.
Southern Tip for Nightlife and Beaches
The capital of Bridgetown is not much to write home about and traffic can get awful, but on its outskirts along the southern tip of the island are some of Barbados’ prettiest beaches such as Carlisle Bay, Miami Beach, and on the southeastern shore, Crane Beach. The southern tip is also the happening place for nightlife including Fridays at Oistins. But, for those not into the overwhelming crowds there, St. Lawrence Gap is another option, a coastal stretch with an array of dining and nightlife venues. Among them is Reggae Lounge, an open-air nightclub alternating between reggae, calypso, and rhythm and blues. The Ship Inn offers music in a pub atmosphere, and then the Whistling Frog has weekly live music and on nights when it’s not live, chances are that the native whistling frogs can be heard singing in unison.
Sonic Booms on Barbados
The international airport is also in the south, and it was once a destination for the transatlantic supersonic jet, the Concorde. Though the jet no longer flies, the “Concorde Experience” offers visitors an interactive voyage of what it once was like, complete with sonic boom.
If you don’t mind a sonic boom hitting your wallet, then head to the newest shopping venue on Barbados, Limegrove Lifestyle Center in Holetown. It features Ralph Lauren, Gucci, Michael Kors, Bulgari and other upscale shopping venues. Instead, I went in search of island crafts and handiwork and in the process discovered one of the best bargains in Barbados: public transportation. Blue and yellow buses, like the colors of the Barbados flag, run up and down the Platinum Coast between Bridgetown, Holetown, and Speightstown. $2 Barbadian (US$1) takes you as far as you want to go in either direction, and they run frequently; correct Barbadian change required.
But hands-down the best bargains on Barbados are still the free beautiful beaches. To me, one looks prettier than the next, especially at sunset over a rum punch. That’s Mount Gay rum, of course, in proper Bajan style in this Little England of the Caribbean.
The area code for Barbados is 246.
Where to Sleep:
Treasure Beach – Located on one of the island’s best white sandy beaches, this hotel nestles between magnificent mahogany and palm trees within perfectly manicured gardens. Ocean view suites have recently been renovated and feature coral stone walls, ceramic tile floors and Plasma screen TV’s. Payne’s Bay, St. James; 246-432-1346; www.treasurebeachhotel.com
Elegant Hotels manages a collection of luxury beachfront resorts on the “Platinum Coast” each with complimentary water sports and a water taxi between resorts. Toll free reservations: 888-996-9948. Elegant Hotels include:
Colony Club – Boutique luxury resort amidst a pretty tropical oasis. Junior suites start at $370, breakfast included. Porters, St. James. www.colonyclubhotel.com
Tamarind Hotel – Family-friendly elegance including a kids club and teen lounge. Rooms start at $385 including breakfast. Payne’s Bay, St. James. www.tamarindbarbados.com
The House – Chic and tranquil adults-only resort. Junior suites start at $680 including breakfast and one 30-minute “jet lag” massage per stay. Payne’s Bay, St. James. www.thehousebarbados.com
Where to Eat:
(With contributions by the TravelSquire editors)
Pisces – Fronting the bar in St. Lawrence Gap, this restaurant is at one with nature, with tables perched above the bay, the sea lapping at your feet throughout dinner. Flawlessly prepared fish and Caribbean specialties. St. Lawrence Gap, Christ Church; 246-435-6564; www.piscesbarbados.com
Café Luna – on the rooftop of the charming Little Arches Hotel, this is one of Barbados’ best kept secrets. International cuisine and a sexy atmosphere lure the beautiful people nightly. Bring a camera and order the fabulous Bouillabaisse. Enterprise Beach Road, Christ Church; 246-420-4689; www.littlearches.com
The Cliff – Prepare to be wowed by the “out of a dream” location as well as the food. Chef Paul Owen has been dazzling guests since 1995 and is committed to improving the food and the service all the time. Built on 3 levels into the side of a cliff, this is the place to be in Barbados. Try the carpaccio of tomato and beet root and the expertly conceived barracuda. Derricks, St. James, Highway 1 Durants; 246-432-1922; www.thecliffbarbados.com
David’s Place – The sophisticated answer to local dining with delicious Bajan cuisine in a stunning setting in a 100 year old building overlooking the glittering St. Lawrence Bay. An unforgettable dining experience, try the pumpkin fritters and grilled flying fish. St. Lawrence Main Road, Worthing, Christ Church; 246-435-9755; www.dinedavids@caribsurf.com
Daphne’s – A sublime lounge-style ambience, fronting the sea with cobalt blue accents throughout. Try the tuna tartare with spicy mustard sauce. www.daphnesbarbados.com
Oistins Fish Fry – Oistins on Friday nights is the second most popular attraction on Barbados after Harrison’s Caves. Colorful stalls feature fish cakes and freshly grilled or fried fish like mahi mahi and red snapper with heaps of rice and peas, macaroni, coleslaw and more, all for about $20 Barbados or about US$10. The seating is at long outdoor picnic tables and the atmosphere is frenetic, so if you’re seeking calm, don’t go, but if you want to see local Barbadian food culture in a lively atmosphere, it’s a must.
What to See:
Harrison’s Caves – Sit back and relax as solar-powered trams transport you through a magical underworld of stalactites, stalagmites and subterranean pools and cascading waterfalls. Welchman Hall, St. Thomas; (246) 417-3700; www.harrisonscave.com