Becherovka, Drinking a Czech Secret

The Czech Republic may hold the reputation of being a beer lover’s paradise, but the country’s contribution to spirits, Becherovka, stands among the most complex liqueurs in the world. While European countries have a long tradition of digestifs, from Italian amaro to French cognac to Germany’s Underberg, only Becherovka has become intertwined with a nation’s identity, its endurance a source of national pride.

Becherovka calls the picturesque Czech spa town of Karlovy Vary (Carlsbad) home. Karlovy Vary sits nestled near the border with Germany, a magnet for Czechs and Germans drawn to its hot springs. The city has a long history, named for Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV, who founded it in 1370. But it’s not just spas and spirits that the city is known for. Each year, world cinema heavyweights are drawn to the Karlovy Vary Film Festival while glass manufacturer Moser upholds the best traditions of Bohemian glass making. For anyone visiting Prague, an excursion to Karlovy Vary can easily become as essential weekend jaunt.

The recipe for Becherovka is closely guarded, with only two people knowing its exact contents and allowed to enter the Drogikamr, where the herbs and spices are mixed once a week. Becherovka gets its complexity and herbaceousness from “about” twenty herbs – the exact number being a mystery – sourced from as near as fields around the town and as far away as Asia and Africa, mixed with alcohol and macerated for a week. Pristine soft water from a reservoir ten kilometers away is then added along with sugar and alcohol. The end result is all-natural, with no preservatives or artificial colors.

The history of Becherovka is intertwined with both Karlovy Vary and the Becher family – Jan Becher’s name still adorns the distinctive flat green bottles he had designed for the company. Legend has it that his father, Josef Becher, a local spice trader and merchant who would also serve as mayor, welcomed to town Count Maxmilian Friedrich von Plettenberg-Wittem-Mietingen and his entourage, including a key figure in the history of Becherovka, Dr. Frobrig. With Josef already experimenting with spirits as early as 1794, this produced a fortuitous meeting of the minds and the original recipe for Becherovka.

After tinkering with the recipe, Josef began selling “English Bitter” (later Becherovka) in 1807 to travelers coming to the town looking to cure stomach ailments. In 1838, his son Johann (Jan) Becher took over and launched the company proper. In 1867, he built the plant that today houses the Jan Becher museum. Markets expanded and the spirit made the journey to the U.S. in 1934. Wars and Communism intervened, with the state taking control of the factory from the last of the Bechers, Hedda, who was forced to turn over the original handwritten recipe. In 2001, the company was privatized and today is part of the Pernod Ricard group.

The story is all well and good but we need to taste Becherovka, don’t we? For optimum results, keep a bottle in the freezer as sub-zero temperatures bring out the herbal qualities. I prefer to drink it after a big meal but it’s also a good aperitif. At 76 proof, this is for sipping – don’t just down it but savor the herbal notes like ginger and cinnamon, as well as the smooth finish with a lingering spiciness. It’s hard not to appreciate the complexity and artistry that goes into such a balanced liqueur. If you prefer, you can mix with tonic (1½ parts Becherovka to 3 parts tonic) or make a Manhattan variant with 1 part Becherovka to 1 part Calvados to ¾ parts sweet vermouth and two dashes of orange bitters.

Today, you can visit Karlovy Vary to take a tour of the Jan Becher house and witness the history of this amazing spirit. You’ll tour the cellars where the spirit was produced, view a film, taste the products, and more. The museum is open daily from 9am – 5pm and they offer tours in English. Call or email ahead for a reservation.