I’m gazing at downhill racers traversing beautifully down the lower “Little Nell” run from a ringside seat inside SO Café, an aerie-style eatery on the rooftop of the Aspen Museum. I’m thinking the stubby lower trail looks a bit on the steep side but upon studying one skier after another effortlessly tackling it, clearly, I’m wrong. Such is the nature of the “full-on” experience at Aspen Mountain, located right in the middle of Aspen, and one of four mountains on offer in this posh resort town to anyone ready to take a bite out of the quintessential Rocky Mountain experience.
As a flight attendant on a British Airways flight once uttered to me as she prepared tea and petits fours after the dinner service enroute to London, “Go on, get your money’s worth.” And that’s exactly what you’ll get when you spend a long weekend in Colorado’s most lauded resort. For even though you’ll be blowing your budget at every turn, pretty much everything at your fingertips will be TTD, Totally Top Drawer, not the least of which is the must do rooftop lunch at SO Café. Every dish was exquisitely presented, so much so that I found myself snapping iPhone photos of things as they arrived, something I never do. And don’t even get me started on the view and the building’s incredible architecture.
A Day on the Slopes Here is a Great Adventure
I confess I had no idea a week before departure that there were four mountains from which to choose. In a quandary I blindly asked a fellow writer who had some skiing history there which one she thought was the best. Her dead certain reply was that the “scene” was definitively on Aspen Mountain. And, after noticing that our condo was situated a mere block away from the Silver Queen Gondola that ascends to the summit of it, off we went. That was of course after being suitably equipped by the guys at Four Mountain Sports, a 4-star experience. HINT: if you’re slumming it with rentals, head there the night before to book. They’ll deliver your skis right to the mountain for you in the morning. Wow, no need for hauling … what a relief!
Choose Your Trail and Enjoy the Run
Once arriving at an astounding 11,000+ feet above the charming downtown, you’ll no doubt ponder your course of action considering the myriad of trails. Take it from a seasoned skier we chatted up in the gondola. If you’re skill level is even a notch below advanced stay at the top and ski the short blue runs up there as the lower mountain runs gradually steepen to black levels. Then hop the gondola back down rather than taking on the challenge of skiing entirely down the mountain. There’s nothing like a 15-minute rest after this exhausting undertaking and why not enjoy that view while you can?
Bonus: Après Ski Cocktail Classic
My time in Aspen coincided (luckily) with a popular annual event called Après Ski Cocktail Classic. In case you don’t know about Après, perhaps you should enter the first grade. More than a few times in the past I recall hearing about this phenomenon, even to the point that some visitors blaze a trail to Aspen primarily for the partying. You can’t blame them really; the scenic surroundings and the small-town attitude lend themselves to friendliness. And when you mix in a little booze things start looking up. Oh, if and when you do schedule your end of winter celebration, remember that cannabis is legal in Colorado. You know how your body will be feeling after 2 or 3 days on the slopes and a cocktail in both hands.
Without further ado, however, here are my recommendations for a simply fabulous 72 Hours in Aspen.
The area code for Aspen is 970.
Where to Stay:
Frias Properties of Aspen – You’re in Aspen so get onboard with renting a condo. It’s the only way to feel like you live there and that’s what you’re going to want as you ponder the interesting locals and their attitudes. Frias operates 39 properties in Aspen central ranging from condos to private homes. Enjoy complimentary Aspen Airport transportation, health club passes, and concierge service. 730 East Durant, Aspen, 970-920-2020; www.friasproperties.com
Hotel Jerome – Our previous Aspen correspondent gave us the lowdown on this prestigious historical gem here. Do yourself a favor and consider booking a dinner reservation with or without your stay. The food (and ambience) at Prospect are just what the doctor ordered. 330 E. Main St., Aspen, 970-429-5028; www.aubergeresorts.com/hoteljerome
The St. Regis – Mountain town chic mixes and mingles with money and power. Take a fat wallet. 315 E. Dean St., Aspen, 970-920-3300; www.marriott.com
Where to Eat & Drink:
Hint: Give in to hedonism and go out for every meal.
SO Café – Spend an afternoon at the very spiffy looking Aspen Museum but definitely have lunch here in the drop-dead scenic rooftop café first. Perfect for photo ops. 637 E. Hyman Ave., Aspen, 970-925-8050; www.aspenartmuseum.org
Prospect – A modern American bistro located inside the Hotel Jerome that honors the town’s rich mining history with hearty and diverse American dishes. Executive Chef Rob Zack’s classic favorites reflect a flare for originality and the dynamic presentation nails it. 330 E. Main St., Aspen, 970-429-5028; www.aubergeresorts.com/hoteljerome
Casa Tua – Keep your eyes peeled for Goldie or the likes. Order some oysters from their extensive list, then follow it up with a Classic Steak Tartare. Champagne, of course! 403 So. Galena St., Aspen, 970-920-7277; www.casatualifestyle.com
Matsuhisa Aspen – New style Japanese cuisine from world famous culinary master Chef Nobu Matsuhisa. Signature dishes like Yellowtail Sashimi with Jalapeño, Black Cod Miso and White Fish Tiradito are served in a 120-year old Victorian house. 330 E. Main St., Aspen, 970-544-6628; www.matsuhisarestaurants.com
Meat & Cheese – A celebration of food prepared in home kitchens everywhere, a style called World Farmhouse. Using locally sourced ingredients, the chefs have engaged the culinary traditions of Asia, Europe, and the Americas. An eclectic sharing menu follows the rhythm of seasons, and just about everything is made from scratch. 319 E. Hopkins, Aspen, www.meatcheese.avalancheaspen.com
Clark’s Oyster Bar – Serves a variety of East and West Coast oysters, crudo, ceviche, seafood towers and specialties, lobster rolls, crab cakes, mussels, clams and a fresh catch of the day. What more do you need? 512 E. Hyman Ave, Aspen, 970-710-2546; www.clarksaspen.com
What to See & Do:
Ski – Head for the sleekly groomed (and very steep) slopes of Aspen (Ajax) Mountain but suit up first at Four Mountain Sports. You can order your equipment the day before and they will deliver it right to the mountain for you in the morning. Now, that’s service! 520 E Durant Ave, Aspen, 970-920-2337; www.aspensnowmass.com
And Après Ski, of course – Bad Harriet, the basement speakeasy down the street from the Hotel Jerome, pays homage to the wife of the hotel’s original proprietor, Jerome B. Wheeler, with craft cocktails that are titled after strong women in history. Smart and sassy, it’s a place to see and be seen. 330 E. Main St., Aspen, 855-331-7213; www.aubergeresorts.com
Après Ski Cocktail Classic – This yearly celebration of everything cocktail held in the courtyard of The St. Regis Hotel is prime time for a visit. March 12-15, 2020 apresskicocktailclassic.com
Ride the Fat Tire Bike Loop – For all levels, the loop takes riders on an adventure through the Marolt Open Space and the Aspen Golf Course. It crosses paths with the cross-country skiing trails, so you’ll meet friends along the way. The views are incredible with snow-covered trees, houses, and mountains as far as the eye can see. Aspen Cross-Country Center, 39551 W. Hwy 82, 970-925-2145. Take the free RFTA bus from the Rubey Park bus stop in town (Buttermilk or Snowmass Bus) and get off at the Truscott stop.
Take a Snowshoe Tour – Nothing more calming than gazing at snow. Meet your guide at the top of Aspen Mountain in front of the Silver Queen gondola. Aspen Center for Environmental Studies (ACES), 970-925-5756; www.aspennature.org
Shop at the Cannabis store – It’s discreet and a little bit sneaky, Pete. But you’ll love the professionalism (not to mention the passion) of the sales team. Green Dragon Cannabis Co., 409 E. Hyman Ave., Aspen, 970-429-4365; www.greendragon.com
Editor’s Note: In addition to the finest dining, bars and club scene in Colorado, Aspen is also known for its unique “après-ski for the mind.” Visitors can enjoy the following events during the winter season: Aspen Film’s Academy Screenings in January, Aspen Words’ Winter Words from January- March 2020, JAS Café performances year-round with Jazz Aspen Snowmass, concerts at Belly Up Aspen, art and exhibit openings at Aspen Art Museum, and more.