Big Bend: A Texas Discovery Like No Other

Some destinations are worth the trouble of getting there. Named for the vast curve of the Rio Grande River in the far…far…far southwest of Texas, Big Bend is one of those. While all the National Parks are amazing, Big Bend brings something special to the table. It’s not just the park but also the surrounding communities that make this remote corner of Texas worthy of exploring. This is a land where roadrunners scurry across dusty roads and you’ll likely find yourself searching for Wylie E. Coyote. In Big Bend you can take a rowboat to Mexico, meet a beer-drinking goat currently serving as mayor, and celebrate the Day of the Dead in the ghost town of Terlingua. And if sunsets are your thing, the ones here will take your breath away.

The Main Attraction: Big Bend National Park and Big Bend Ranch State Park

Spreading out over one million acres and encompassing the entire Chisos mountain range along with a large section of the Chihuahuan Desert, Big Bend National Park and Big Bend Ranch State Park are home to over 1,200 species of plants, 450 species of birds and 3,600 species of insects and animals including mountain lions, bears, jackrabbits, mule deer, roadrunners and coyotes—to chase the roadrunners, of course. Options for recreation include hiking, camping, river float trips, horseback riding, mountain biking, and birding.

Tackling the Lost Mine Trail

We started our exploration with a hike. Meandering up toward a 7,550-foot peak, the Lost Mine Trail begins as a gentle hike and later becomes a real climb. Gaining around 1,000 feet in altitude before reaching the peak, the views of Casa Grande Peak along the way are splendid. We took a break at the waypoint marked “Lookout” sitting on rock outcroppings while we took in our first view of Jupiter Canyon.

After pausing, the path became a more challenging rock-strewn trail laid out in a seemingly endless string of switchbacks. The panoramic vistas at the top were worth every huff and puff required to get there.

Experiencing the Rio Grande

Hiking takes a lot of energy, so following it with a float trip on the Rio Grande is the perfect way to cool down. The river serves as a natural border between the USA and Mexico—and it’s one of the most peaceful borders anywhere.  Rafts, kayaks and canoes are all options (depending on water levels) for gliding through the Santa Elena Canyon surrounded by towering limestone cliffs. Outfitters like Big Bend Far Flung Outdoors offer a number of guided float trips from half-day floats to overnight camping and float trips for ages 6 and up.

Experience more of the mighty Rio Grande with a dip in the Langford Hot Springs. Located within the park on the banks of the river, the Springs provide both a relaxing and exhilarating experience. In the early 20^th century, Joseph Oscar (J.O.) Langford, seeking relief from malaria, learned of the healing properties of the springs and bought a parcel of land along the Rio Grande. He built a two-story bathhouse on the river’s banks. All that remains today are the ruins of its foundation, but those ruins provide a pool open to the sky alongside the rushing waters—a place for you to soak while stargazing beneath the vast Texas sky.

A Border Crossing to Remember

When I first learned I would be paddling a rowboat to Mexico, visions of an illicit border crossing that could quite possibly land me in a Mexican jail leapt to mind. I’m adventurous, but I try to avoid being locked up. So, I was relieved to learn that you can legally take a rowboat to Mexico at the Boquillas Point of Entry.

After a short walk down the path to the river which brought a brief encounter with a javelina, we boarded a boat for the crossing. We were in good company as it was helmed by the mayor of Boquillas. He wasn’t the only one on the welcoming committee; we were greeted by Mexican cowboys on the other side serenading us with a course of “Ay ay ay ay canta y no llores.”  They informed us we had three options for the trek to the town’s immigration trailer (yes, trailer). We could walk, sit in the back of a pick-up truck, or ride a burro. Of course, we saddled up—why not?

There’s not a lot to do in Boquillas, but it’s worth a visit just for the unusual crossing. We took advantage of our afternoon in the tiny village by sampling the local cuisine and of course the delicious margaritas. Imbibe in enough of them and you’ll be singing along with the cowboys on your return across the watery border.

Luxury, Weapons and Politics in Lajitas

Located at the western edge of Big Bend, Lajitas is home to the Lajitas Golf Resort, a 27,000-acre property featuring a world-class 18-hole course. The resort also offers a spa, pool, restaurants and shops. For more entertainment, you can fly on a zip line or do what I did, channel your inner Annie Oakley with the “Cowboy Action Shoot” experience.

We ventured out to the shooting range that is set up as “Stargazer Springs”—a Wild West town façade. To my surprise, this was not a clay shooting experience; we were handed an assortment of weapons including a pistol, rifle and a double-barreled shotgun with live ammo. Under strict professional supervision, we sauntered through the town taking turns shooting at the targets through the windows of the saloon and other landmarks. Annie Oakley I’m not, but I have to admit I wasn’t bad with a pistol.

No visit to Lajitas is complete without meeting the mayor, Clay Henry. Not your typical politician, Clay Henry is a beer-drinking goat that has been elected mayor more than once—maybe he should run for president.

The Ghost Town of Terlingua

Once the thriving home of the historic Chisos Mining Company, Terlingua became a ghost town after the mines dried up in the 1940s. But ghost towns are cool and Terlingua is no exception. For one thing, it’s the home of the original Chili Cookoff which attracts over 10,000 “chili heads” each year.

The Starlight Theatre restaurant and bar is the hangout for tourists and locals. The only unwelcome guest is progress—the residents want nothing to do with it. Catch the view from the porch on a clear day of the Santa Fe de Los Pinos mountain range 80 miles south in Mexico.

For a true cultural experience, time your visit for November 2, for the annual Day of the Dead celebration. Everyone heads to the town’s 115-year-old cemetery to decorate the graves of the dearly departed with flowers, candles and photographs. There’s plenty of music, food and drink, and a couple dressed as skeletons roams in and out of the shadows of the tiny graveyard. It’s part spooky, part cool and one more Big Bend experience you don’t want to miss.

www.visitbigbend.com.