Bite the Big Apple

Eating in New York City

Daniel

 

Hype in New York often trumps reality.  No place on earth can brainwash people into thinking that the show, the art, the exhibit, the performance, or…the food is better than what you sense.  It’s like Harpo Marx and Richard Pryor said: “Who you gonna believe, me or your own eyes?”  Armies of P.R. people make rent working long hours into the night trying to convince you that what they rep is better than what he or she reps.  The goal is to pry you from your hard-earned bucks.  How do you know where to eat in New York City with the blizzard of hype?

The goods news is that many places are exemplary, and there are some amazing examples of first-rate food, killer service, and ambience that makes you feel immediately at ease.  I rely on my network of chefs to find places worth visiting.  These are the people who know food and have the best palates, understand value and hate to spend money on dining unless it’s really great.

11 Madison Park

I’m sharing some of the places they have sent me, but if this causes long waits and keeps me from getting a reservation because the place gets super popular, then it will be the last time I tell you anything about eating in the Big Apple.

Certainly the best restaurant in the city for regular dining is Esca.  Located on 9th and 43rd, Esca has two small rooms packed with celebrities and earthlings who are dining on perfect, fresh, seasonal fish served crudo, in pastas, roasted, grilled, and fried.  The chef, Dave Pasternack, collaborates with Mario Batali to create honest food that is so delicious as to be inspiring.  Influenced by Italy, but adapted to NYC, the cuisine here is the epitome of restraint.

If you’re willing to take it to the next level in terms of both formality and cost, the very top tier restaurants are The Gang of Four:  Per Se, Daniel, Le Bernadin, and Jean Georges.  You must be prepared to kvell over the food, make conversation for three hours, and have a Grover Cleveland in your pocket, however.  These restaurants truly create memorable, world class, epic experiences, but honey, you better have deep pockets or access to a trust fund.

Locanda Verde

Skirting the edge of the big boys are Corton and 11 Madison.  Both of these restaurants are on the edge of stardom.  Think Maceo Parker leaving James Brown or Wyclef Jean quitting The Fugees.   Neither restaurant has the confidence nor provides the rapture of The Gang of Four, but they are…this close.  What this means: You will receive tons of amuse bouche to feature the chef’s finesse and to illustrate the kitchen’s power.  At 11 Madison, the team of Chef Daniel Humm and GM Will Guidera are about to break out.

Locanda Verde

In the past year, many new places have opened, but few are worth your time.  Ironically, competition can level the playing field.

The two best restaurants to open in the city within the year are Maialino and Locanda Verde.  Mailino, on Gramercy Park, has delicious plates of Roman trattoria style food and a superb wine list.  This is comfort food nonpareil, priced to go, and served in a room that creates the illusion of being in Testaccio.  Locanda Verde, deep in Tribeca, is a monster.  This food is so good, so flavorful, so smart, that I wish I lived next door.  The menu is a riff on Italian and Italian American classics.   The chef here, Andrew Carmellini, told me his goal: “I want to chill.”  The food is chill.

Daniel

I walk up and down the island, eschewing taxis, buses, and subways, to take in what Bellow called, “The human bath,” and the sheer number of restaurants is overwhelming.  Sure, grab a dog at Papaya King, go to Zabar’s and get the belly lox, scrambled eggs and sturgeon at Barney Greengrass, corned beef and pastrami on rye with a Cel-Ray at Second Avenue Deli, sushi at Sushi Yasuda.  Let’s hope now that Yasuda-san has returned home that the fish stays fresh and the slicing remains surgical.  Grab a slice at Lombardi’s, quick bites and beer or wine at DBGB or Bar Boulud.  Behave like a camel and don’t give in to hunger.

11 Madison Park

The biggest development of 2010 in NYC?  Eataly, off Madison Park  This is Italian eating and food shopping on steroids.  Basically a food hall, it’s run by Mario Batali, Joe Bastianich, and Dave Pasternack.  Aisles of pasta, vegetables, fruits, meat, and fish compete for your attention with beautiful pizzas, sandwiches, and formal plates.  You will hear as much Italian spoken here as you do English and that’s no hype.