When I told my friends that I was planning to visit Colombia, the question I kept getting was “Why?” Most asked if it was safe enough and one or two reacted with a ”How interesting.” Had I said Rio or Buenos Aires, I think the reaction would not have been the same, yet I found Bogotá far more interesting than either of those destinations. The romantic world created by Gabriel Garcia Marquez, one of the best writers of all time, always intrigued me and after 7 days there, it’s become a new favorite. It has fabulous food, friendly people, a mild climate, interesting architecture … and it’s surrounded by mountains!
Urban Cool with a Mix of Old-World South America
We loved roaming the city and gazing at the beautiful skies that changed within seconds from sun to clouds to drizzle. The urban cool vibe was a surprise, as I was expecting old-world South America; in fact, it’s a mix of both with a little bit of a European sensibility. By that I mean great museums, cafes, markets, and art galleries. The effort to keep Bogotá green are impressive, with gardens both large and small popping out everywhere, and there’s a gorgeous mix of tropical and sub-tropical vegetation. I loved the planted walls seen throughout the city on buildings and in hotels and restaurants. In fact, the world’s largest vertical garden blooms in the heart of Bogotá on the Santalaia building, with more than 85,000 plants.
While Colombia was not always safe, in the last decade it has become much more so, especially Bogotá. Tourism is up, especially from the USA, since now the word seems to be out. As with any big South American city you need to be a smart traveler and be watchful and while we were warned not to tour La Candelaria (the old town) at night, we felt safe there and pretty much everywhere. The neighborhoods of Chapinero and Usaquen are very safe, as well as Zona G and Zona T. As one woman from Bogotá said to me … she has never been robbed in Bogota, but she was in Paris!
Getting to Know the City
Bogotá is home to over 10 million people and seems to be booming right now. It has beautiful Spanish colonial buildings and churches, complemented by vibrant street art that literally shows up everywhere. It’s quite spread out, but individual neighborhoods have charm and are easy to navigate. The diversity of the architecture with a mix of colonial Spanish, native pre-Colombian and modern makes for an interesting cityscape. Strolling La Candelaria’s narrow streets, you see the modern blue and green Séneca skyscrapers, part of City U Andes University housing, fronting the surrounding mountains. La Candelaria is also where most of the museums and sights are as well as the most famous graffiti. We enjoyed discovering the charming upscale neighborhoods of hip Chapinero, with gorgeous architecture, and the adjacent G Zone (Gourmet Zone), home to some of the best restaurants in town. The lovely Usaquen is also known for great restaurants and has a great flea market on Sundays.
Bogotá is known for its street art and there are numerous graffiti tours. What struck me though was that graffiti appeared all over and in unexpected places. There are streets and alleys completely covered with incredible murals and decorating the sides of tall buildings.
Weather and Geography: What You Need to Know
The weather is the pretty much the same year-round and it was perfect for sightseeing. The forecast called for rain daily and a little chill, and while it may have been in the high 50’s or low 60’s it felt much warmer with a period of sunshine then a little drizzle. The rain didn’t hamper our touring but you do need to carry an umbrella in Bogotá! Nights were on the chilly side but I didn’t need the winter coat I packed as layering and a warm cardigan were enough.
Geographically, Bogotá is situated over 8600 feet above sea level, so you’ll need to get acclimated by drinking plenty of water and not doing too much on the first day. Foolishly, we did the opposite, heading straight to Monserrate, the quaint hilltop town above the city. When we arrived the Funicular line was so long so we opted to walk up as we were told it would only take 45 minutes. Perhaps if you sprinted up the roughly 3 kilometers of vertical stairs it would take 45 minutes, ha! I had to stop every 15 minutes just to catch my breath and have a drink of water. It took a full hour and a half, and while the walk was beautiful it was not an easy one. Monserrate has tremendous panoramic views of Bogotá and the town is charming with restaurants, interesting shops, and a pretty sanctuary. Of course we took the Funicular back down!
Exploring by Segway
I would suggest taking a tour of La Candelaria instead on the first day to get your bearings, then see the sites on the following days, especially the Gold Museum and Botero Museum. We did a Segway tour which was a hoot! Segway Tours are brand new to Bogotá and there is only one company running them. People are not used to seeing them yet so sightseeing on one is not only a blast but you feel like a rock star cruising around with everyone staring and smiling. Our sweet tour guide from Bogotá Segway, Sebastian, was adorable and showed us parts of the city we’d never have found on our own, sharing the history as we puttered along.
Bogotá is truly a city of surprises. One day we went to the National Museum in the afternoon and after we arrived learned that there was a free concert at 6pm with a mezzo soprano. We stayed of course, and after the set, the 2 singers sang Broadway show tunes. Now that doesn’t happen in your typical South American capital, for sure!
The area code for Bogotá is +57 then 1 and the number.
Where to Stay:
*Five star accommodations can be had in Bogotá for as little as $300 a night, a fraction of what you’d pay in Europe. These are my picks:
Four Seasons Casa Medina – A charming hotel in a fabulous location in the heart of Zona G, the city’s super hip gourmet zone. The hotel is a restored colonial mansion turned into a luxury 62 room property. It’s beautiful and quite unique with no two rooms alike. It’s ideal for any holiday or romantic getaway, not to mention having a lovely (but tiny) spa with amazing massages using locally inspired treatments. The gym is climatized so you don’t feel the elevation while you work out! Home to Castanyoles, Mediterranean restaurant and tapas bar, with a convivial sidewalk terrace and breakfast room with a living wall that is the perfect example of modern Colombian design. Avenida Carrera 7, # 69A-22, +57-1-325-7900; ww.Fourseasons.com/bogotacm
Hotel Sofitel Victoria Regia – Wonderful 5-Star 102 room hotel located between Chapinero and Usaquen, near many art galleries. The style is a mix of modern French with local Colombian furnishings. Avenida Carerra 13 #80, Bogotá, Cundinamarca, Colombia. +57-1-646-6390; www.sofitel.accorhotels.com
Four Seasons Bogotá – This is the more typical Four Seasons guest experience in Zona Rosa for those who want a modern luxury hotel, but it’s still small with just 64 guest rooms. The rooms are spacious with hardwood floors and expansive windows. The hotel also is home to NEMO, the bar and grill by celebrated Colombian Chef, Harry Sasson. Avenida Carrera 13 #85-46, +57-1-325-7930; www.Fourseasons.com/bogota
Where to Eat:
*The restaurant scene is Bogotá is HOT and there are plenty of great choices in Zona G and the Zona T. Zona G may be the best area for dining, but it’s mostly foreign food as opposed to traditional with French, Peruvian and Mediterranean options. Many of the great traditional and modern Colombian restaurants are in La Candelaria. Even the best restaurants in town cost about half of what they would in the US. Here are my picks:
Tabula – Our favorite meal in Bogota. The hip, modern setting was fantastic and the food even better! It’s near the National Museum and not to be missed. Calle 29 bis # 5-90, Bogota, 57-1-287-7228; www.elorigendelacomida.co
Abasto – (Usaquen or Zona G) Traditional Colombian food with a modern twist. Cool ambience and really good food. They are known for using local ingredients with many unique seafood options presented beautifully. Usaquen Location: Carrera 6 #119B-52, Bogota, 57-1-215-1286; Chapinero Location: Calle 69A #9-09, Bogota, 57-1-675-0492; www.abasto.com.co
Andres Carne de Res (Chia and Bogota) – They have several locations but the original in Chia (perfect stop on the way back from the Salt Cathedral) is a pride of Colombians, as it was recommended to us frequently. It’s a bit of a hippie-inspired labyrinth of Dali-esque decorated rooms covered with vintage and Colombian artifacts that you have to see to understand! It has a separate area/playground for kids, shops and also becomes a hopping club by night. If single, go late for a fun night of dancing and seeing locals go wild in a place with truly unusual décor. They also have a concept called “La Plaza de Andres” which is like a food market. You pick and choose from several “vendors” and get a taste of all kinds of traditional foods. This is located inside a mall called El Retiro in the same area as the restaurant. Chia Location: Calle # N 11A -56, 1-57-861-2233; Zona Rosa Location: Calle 82 #12-21, Bogota, 1-57-863-7880; www.andrescarnederes.com
Doña Elvira: – This is the perfect place for a long lazy lunch with some of the best regional food around if you want to eat a real traditional meal. Open Wednesday to Sunday and located in old town near the National Museum. Calle 50 #20-26, Bogota, 57-1-235-8275; www.restaurantedonaelvira.com
ll Cielo – Named one of 50 restaurants in Latin America with high-end “molecular” dining, this is modern Colombian food. The restaurant is known for their tasting menus of 12 or 15 dishes for dinner, three-courses for lunch. Reservations by phone are necessary and should be made well in advance. Calle 70 #4-47, Bogota, 57-1-703-5585; www.elcielorestaurant.com
Casa San Isidro – On the hilltop of Monserrate mountain, it’s elegant and the food is great. A great part of it is the trek upward and the city views. Calle 70 #4-47, Bogota, 57-1-703-5585; www.restaurantecasasanisidro.com
What to See & Do:
Paloquemao Market -The most amazing flower and fruit displays I have ever seen and the food market with vegetables and meats from all over Colombia was equally interesting. Get there early as the flower vendors start packing up around 11 am. And go hungry as there are yummy food stalls and snacks everywhere. The colorful flowers and fruit displays are what blew me away most from avocados the size of eggplants to stunning tropical flowers and boxed roses in colors from dreams. (Note, closes at 4 pm.)
Ciclovia – On Sundays until 2 pm, they close off Avenida 7, the main thoroughfare in the city, to all cars so people can run and walk and bicycle from one end of the city to the other. We rented bikes and joined the locals. It was a great way to see a real slice of life in Bogotá, and biking is a great way to see the city in general.
The Gold Museum – Not sure why this did not sound that interesting to me and I could not have been more mistaken. The colorful and unique displays of gold and learning the history of gold in Colombia was fascinating. Carrera 6, No. 15-88, Bogota, 57-1-343-2222
The Botero Museum – Fernando Botero is the most renowned Colombian artist, known for his voluptuous sculptures and colorful modern painting. The museum houses a great collection of not only Boteros but many other well-known modern artists. And right next door is both the Money Museum and the Mamu, the Miguel Urrutia Contemporary Art Museum – all interesting but the Botero was the best if time is short. Calle 11 #4-41, Bogota, 57-1-343-1316
Tour the City by Segway – Bogotá Segway, Avenue Jimenez #4-77 (in front of Hotel Augusta), Rosario Square, 57-32-757-9656; www.Bogotasegway.com
Snap Photos of the surprise street delights – We saw long tables with people playing chess in the street and street performers in the crosswalks at red lights with a wide variety of talents, from juggling and puppeteering to acrobats and more!
SHOP! – Buy Coffee, emeralds, Werregue weaved vases, ceramic Pre-Columbian pottery (mostly replicas, but still gorgeous), colorful cotton Wayuu Bags or geometric wool Mochila totes. Or my favorite – stunning wooden pieces from Narino that are decorated with colored dried wheat over sketches in elaborate designs.
Salt Cathedral – When you’re ready to venture outside the capital of Colombia, take a drive to Zipaquira, where a church built in a salt mine 180 meters underground has been transformed into a uniquely beautiful museum. It’s an engineering marvel that’s a must see. Carrera 6 Calle 1, Parque De La Sal, Zipaquira, 57-1-851-9502; www.catedraldesal.gov.co/
La Calera – This pretty colonial town is about 30 minutes away from Bogotá. Take the local bus to experience something different. You’ll be the only tourist on it!