Bustling Beijing

When visiting a foreign country, it’s best to have an open mind … and that’s even more important when visiting China. So, leave all the government rhetoric about tariffs and trade wars behind, and focus on the historical sites, the fresh food, how life has progressed, and the eager acceptance of the Chinese people. They will be just as curious about you … so don’t be surprised if they sneak a picture or two. Just smile for the cameras and invite them to pose with you!

Beijing is a bustling modern city positioning for growth in a global market while continuing to pay honor to the emperors and dynasties of the past. Some streets resemble Fifth Avenue with high-end stores while others are narrow byways in a century’s old Hutong village where families have lived in the same two-room homes for generations.

Seventy Years New

Seventy years ago in 1949, The People’s Republic of China was established, ending centuries of emperor rule. Banners are prominently displayed everywhere, especially at Tiananmen Square and the entrance to the Forbidden City. The Chinese are quite proud of their country and you’ll notice some distinct differences. For example, there is no litter (streets are swept by those living there) and there are no homeless people (since provinces take care of their own). Per the locals, life is getting progressively better with new services and technology although they still feel “100 years behind the USA.” Myself, I think they are quickly catching up.

Located in a valley, Beijing is surrounded by mountains on three sides. Breezes from the Bohai Sea used to trap man-made smog in the city for days. Past concerns of air pollution have been erased by a $40 billion spend in infrastructure improvements made in preparation for the 2008 Summer Olympics. Today, it’s rare to see anyone wearing a face mask and anyone with a sensitivity issue should be fine.

Further preparation is underway leading up to 2022, when Beijing will become the first city ever to host both the Winter and Summer Olympics. It’s been proposed that the Winter games be split across three event sites – 1) the city of Zhangjiakou, 2) Yanqing (in the mountains northwest of Beijing) and 3) in Beijing. New bullet trains will soon be available between Beijing and Shanghai dropping the commute between the two major cities down to 4.5 hours.

While the Olympics will be a great reason to visit Beijing, there are many more.

Tiananmen Square – Remembrance and Reflection

The square today serves as a gathering place for government celebrations but it’s also a memorial for the student-led demonstrations for democracy which ended with huge death tolls. You can’t help but notice here how heavy security is with cameras, speakers and military personnel everywhere. Even guides cannot answer questions while standing in the Square and don’t even dare try to take a photo. Over 10 days of travel across 3 provinces, this is the only place where I felt a kind of heaviness.

Imperial Palace – the Emperor’s Home

The seat of government for almost 500 years (1420 to 1912), it’s classified as “forbidden” as most subjects were barred entrance. Government dignitaries were allowed limited access along with members of the Imperial Family but only the Emperor was allowed total access. Situated in the center of Beijing, the 172-acre compound is UNESCO designated and closely monitored. Entering, you’ll walk past the Palace and the Palace Museum, through the rock gardens and past other supporting buildings till you reach the end. Foot traffic is in one direction only and the recommended visiting time is 4 hours. Regardless of the forecast, be prepared for changing atmospheric conditions – a sunny day can suddenly be rainy upon exiting. The architecture and gardens are a must-see and it is historically fascinating.

Suggest watching the 1987 award-winning film, The Last Emperor, which is set within the Forbidden City and details the life of an Emperor so secluded that he was unaware of the rebellions raging under his reign. Pu-Yi, the Last Emperor, was arrested in 1950.

Hutong Villages are Self-Contained Communities

The Hutong Village is a preserved way of life from the Yang Dynasty. It consists of small homes with just 2 rooms lining narrow 9-meter streets situated around centralized shops and waterways for transportation. We were invited into one that had been in the family for 4 generations with plans for the parents to pass it on to a 5th when their daughter inherited it. If not kept within the family, the property would revert to the government. Step back in time as you rent a pedicab (like a bicycle rickshaw) to drive you around the neighborhood, shop, and enjoy the local cuisine.

Don’t Miss the Great Wall – One of the Seven Wonders of the World

Multiple options are available for visiting the Great Wall which is a 1 to 2-hour commute from Beijing – private or group tours, limited or fully restored locations, English-speaking guides or on your own. After reviewing all, I chose Mutianyu because it offered a cable car or chair lift to the wall, hiking between 20 towers, and a 5,000+ meter toboggan ride down. Don’t miss an opportunity to experience the vastness of the Great Wall, understand its important role in history and stretch those legs after a long flight over.

The Chair Lift is an Easy Ride with a View

Our private tour included an English-speaking guide, driver, car and lunch with a view. They recommended an early morning pickup – 7:30 am – so that our commute was only 1.5 hours from our hotel, avoiding rush hour and long lines at the wall. We returned to the hotel about 3 pm. Taking the cable car or chair lift saves your legs for the long walks between towers. And about the time your legs are ready to give out, you’ll feel like a kid again riding a toboggan.

Care-free Toboggan Ride

You can make a longer day of it by choosing a tour that adds the Summer Palace, Ming Tombs or shopping. Tours can be arranged via the internet prior to your visit or through your hotel concierge. You can easily control the speed of your toboggan as you descend by leaning into the turn and pushing the stick forward for acceleration, but when you do so expect the staff along the way to caution you to “slow down!”
All the above can be easily accomplished within 2 or 3 days, so think about adding on another city or two to your trip. Plane schedules and train itineraries make it easy to travel across China.