Let me say this straight out. It’s hard to go too long without Italian food. Blame it on my mom’s spaghetti and meatballs or the home made lasagna an Italian friend of mine used to make regularly. So it was with a sense of expectancy that we approached Capuletti, situated on a very busy St. Petersburg street that was nowhere near our stomping ground for the few days we were visiting this magnificent city.
A light rain was falling as we alighted the taxi, apropos for spring time we learned, and the welcome through the door was warm with a flurry of coats being hung and umbrellas stashed. The front staff was instantly hospitable and there was a sense that we were being welcomed into a private home. The dining room was boisterous and in full swing thanks to a birthday party at a neighboring table which was taking precedence. It was clear at the get go that Capuletti is a restaurant for having fun, after all, it’s open 24 hours. “We don’t like to sleep,” our server coyly stated. And when the food starts coming you definitely won’t want to.
Capuletti effuses atmosphere in every nook and cranny from the mismatched chairs and tables to the radiators lining the walls and assorted wine bottles crowding the shelves over the window sills. Add soaring ceilings over a mezzanine seating area, a few of grandmother’s old sideboards, wooden floors, and exposed brick walls and you have a real old fashioned Italian restaurant, the kind that you might find in a little village in Italy but bigger, of course. This is Russia after all, ok? And the very noticeable sensibility of the servers is “whatever you want, we can do.” That said the food here is nothing short of outstanding; Chef Emil Kovtun’s original dishes are prepared with authentic ingredients that are full of Mediterranean flavor.
We started with a round of Negroni cocktails. It was raining outside after all and who can resist Campari when dining Italian and on the late side? They were icy cold and smooth. The Russians do drinks fabulously, even Italian ones. We couldn’t help but dig into the accompanying warm Rosemary Focaccia which was right out of one of the stone wood fired ovens lining the back wall. Starters were fabulous salads, a Caprese, a personal favorite and an unusual Arugula salad with chicken liver, both super fresh. After a few days of Russian food, we were happy to see some greens and raw veggies.
Breakfast Omelette. Photo: Capuletti.We opted for a second course as the warm appetizers sounded so good – perfect grilled scallops with cherry tomatoes, mesclun and a beet pineapple sauce along with baked zucchini with mozzarella, tomato and parmesan. Dishes like these are a true test of a chef’s métier and the kitchen at Capuletti prepares authentic regional Italian cuisine to a “t.” It was easy to see that we’d be foolish to stray from the fantastic classics that Capuletti consistently turns out. The main courses – a perfect home-made Lasagna and Spaghetti with Seafood were stellar.
We hated to leave Capuletti and our server convinced us to stay and have after dinner drinks. We were on foreign soil after all and he wanted to hear our NY story (as most restaurant staff do). So, after endless grappa’s we were convinced to try Capuletti’s signature dessert – a petite yogurt cake with raspberries and a pistachio biscotti crust. Fantastico!
Yogurt Cake Dessert. Photo: Capuletti.As we made our way to the front door, we felt compelled to study the take away’s at the make shift deli/bakery installed at the entrance. Should we have a gelato? Nah, we can come back in a few hours if we get a craving!
*Capuletti is indeed open 24 hours, a rarity in today’s field of hospitality, especially in a major foreign metropolis like St. Petersburg.