I have been on at least a dozen cruises and sometimes feel it’s the only way to travel. I love the feeling of closing my eyes, and when I open them, I’m in a different place. Recently one cruise in particular profoundly affected me in a variety of ways.
Celebrity EclipseThe Trip:
I chose Celebrity Cruises because I had done many trips with them including a Greece/Italy itinerary and a weeklong adventure to Bermuda. This one, the beautiful Celebrity Eclipse, sailed to 10 countries in 14 days. The best part about it? My sea days were as memorable as my days on land.
The Goal:
I went on this journey with no technology. I followed a 30-Day Detox with no email, texting or using the Internet. I had gotten so dependent on my IPhone and computer(s) that I found I wasn’t in the moment anymore and not appreciating my life enough. So I did something about it and I chose to further my experience with travel.
The Preparation:
I went with my best friend Shari (she stayed for half of it — I did the second half on my own.) There were many ways we prepped leading up to the departure: internet searches, friends’ recommendations and carefully choosing our excursions. One thing we noted throughout our trip – not everyone in Europe accepts American Express. And, if they do, they often charge you more than if you used a MasterCard or Visa. And we didn’t really need Euros or other local currency, as cards were widely accepted.
Because we had only 12-24 hours in most locations we tried to maximize our time. We visited the must-see sights, but here are a few of my personal suggestions if you’re sailing in and around the North Sea, Scandinavia and Russia – an extraordinary part of the world.
Day 1: ARRIVAL
We flew into London’s Heathrow and traveled an hour and a half to Southampton from where our luxurious ship embarked. The first sea day was fun, because nothing was planned and we just went with that.
I think it’s important on a cruise that you manage the amount of food you eat. It’s beyond tempting to indulge (especially on Celebrity), but you’ll feel much better and enjoy your adventures more if you don’t overdo it. That said, the workout classes on the sea days were super fun – Zumba, yoga and Pilates – and there was a devoted group of us that congregated at them (I made some good friends!). And I loved my days “off” as there was a Canyon Ranch Spa onboard, with specials each day, to boot. I felt like a queen by the end of this trip and ended my adventure in better shape than when I began. To me, that’s a miracle.
Dinner
Celebrity has a restaurant onboard called Qsine, where you select various types of world cuisine in creative small-plate presentations. It was really a most unique dining experience. Funny thing was, I gave up technology and the menu there was on an iPad.
DAY 2: BRUGES, BELGIUM
Bruges is the capital of Flanders but to be honest, I’d never heard of it. We chose to take an excursion there which was great because it provided round-trip transport and included a brief historical tour. We had 4 hours to explore this charming little city on our own.
What to Buy:
Chocolate (obviously), from incredible chocolatiers, like Pierre Marcolini and Depla. Their gorgeous boutiques, which pepper the Bruges landscape, are filled not only with classic chocolate creations, but also with handmade nougat (a marshmallow-like confection with nuts and dried fruit), as well as pate de fruit, whimsical marzipan shapes and speculoos (similar to gingerbread) cookies. Also noteworthy is Belgium’s handmade lace. Strolling along the streets you’ll actually see women crafting lace with large needles outside tiny stores – tablecloths, napkins, children’s dresses, all beautiful!
Where to Eat Waffles:
We found this quaint, waffle & hot chocolate salon on top of a small confectionery shop in the center of town. We ordered the banana & nutella waffles (which came with butter and powdered sugar) and shared a decadently rich hot chocolate. Amazing!
Day 3: AT SEA
Day 4: BERLIN, GERMANY
We disembarked in the charming seaside town of Warnemunde and immediately got into a private car headed to Berlin, 2 ½ hours away. It was an exciting ride, to say the least. Exciting because on the Autobahn there is no legal speed limit. Our sleek Mercedes was topping the speedometer at a breakneck 180km/hr., which is over 110 miles an hour! The ride also was “exciting” in that my newly pregnant best friend got a bit sick. She recovered gamely for a fun-filled touring day.
In front of the Berlin WallIn Berlin, we visited the Victory Tower, the Reichstag, the Brandenburg Gate, Checkpoint Charlie and parts of the original Berlin Wall, which now house socially conscious artist murals. Being Jewish, this visit to Germany’s capital was both moving and bittersweet. We also rode past the beautiful urban park of Tiergarten and ventured into former East Berlin for some sightseeing.
Where to Shop (for gifts and for yourself):
We spent a fair amount of time in Western Europe’s largest department store, KaDeWe, where we encountered chic European fashions, useful housewares and an amazing Harrods-style food court on the top floor. If you’re more into shopping the local boutiques, I encourage you to visit Kunzeberg, which is this great hidden courtyard filled with eclectic shops – some high-end, some bohemian and funky. I picked up a great hat and some playful costume jewelry.
Equally amazing was the Kathe Wohlfahrt Christmas Shop, a massive expanse of retail dedicated to, you guessed it, Christmas decorations. This is a historic shop with hand crafted wooden nutcrackers and gorgeous ornaments. We gaped in amazement, but managed to only buy a few postcards.
Where to Eat & Drink Beer:
The KaDeWe food hall featured every type of seafood, meats, pastries and Bavarian style pretzels, sandwiches, sausages and beer. I sampled a wonderful summer lager with a hearty plate of local cheeses before continuing with our sightseeing.
Day 5: AT SEA
This was a day of pampering. We got massages at Canyon Ranch spa, did a class in the fitness center and walked a couple of miles on the deck. We read and wrote in our journals and formed bucket lists together. If you don’t have a bucket list, I suggest making one. It is super interesting when you realize the things you truly dream of doing. We were healthy on sea days … there was an amazing juice/smoothie bar on the ship which got us to start us the day right at breakfast.
Day 6: STOCKHOLM, SWEDEN
We loved Stockholm probably more than any other city we visited. We loved it so much, in fact, that we nearly missed our ship’s embarkation at the end of the day! (That was Shari’s fault for the record).
Stockholm is graceful, sophisticated, edgy and fun. Our first view of Sweden was from our stateroom. We sat on our terrace for 2 hours as the sun came up, viewing beautiful green coastline and little fishing villages. It reminded us of a cross between the American Great Lakes region and the coast of Maine.
After leaving the ship, we took a long, blustery walk into Stockholm, proper. We visited Old Town, which is the central, historic part of the city, and teeming with tourists. We stopped by the Nobel Prize Museum, which is very impressive. We passed adorable cafes and shops filled with Nordic winter gear (I wanted to find the perfect mittens for my Vermont buddy, Shari). We ate a great alfresco lunch at a Mediterranean restaurant on a lovely square and simply watched the world go by.
After lunch, we walked north through the Design District and window shopped the famed Swedish design studios. We stopped in a few to check out the local fashions and found a really great H&M, which was stocked with items we hadn’t seen in New York. Then we continued further north crossing a bridge to the chic Ostermalm district, where we found textile shops and a wonderful indoor food market, Ostermalms Saluhall.
Where to Shop:
Boy, did we have a ball! In funky Sodermalm, which is about a 15 minute walk from Old Town, we went to the quirkiest vintage shop, Lisa Larssons. Bags, dresses, tops – one piece was more interesting than the next and Lisa, the owner, was a riot! Definitely worth an hour or two and with super reasonable prices.
King Lily – Sodermannagatan 11, Stockholm, Sweden, +46 8 644 65 75; www.kinglily.se
For unique and brightly colored chotchkes, check out Coctail. It’s a retro-American-inspired gift shop that’s an explosion of color.
Coctail – +46 8 642 07 40/41; www.coctail.nu
Where to Eat:
The Ostermalms Saluhall indoor food market had fantastic local coffee, unsulphured and unsweetened dried figs and dates, some wonderful cinnamon rolls that weren’t too sweet and lingonberry and cloudberry preserves. Also, though we didn’t make it there because we were stuffed, we heard great things about Nytorget Urban Deli in Sodermalm, a wonderful café with sandwiches and salads.
Nytorget – Nytorget 4, Stockholm, Sweden, +46 8 599 091 80
Day 7: HELSINKI, FINLAND
A must: The Helsinki Ice Bar Winter Land
Upon disembarking, the first thing we did was find a taxi driver who would take us to the Arctic Ice Bar Winter Land. We dressed immediately in snowsuits, heavy-duty gloves and boots and were ushered into a darkened palace to find: a Finlandia ice bar with iced shots (virgin if you prefer—but, I went for it), igloos, slides, beds carved from ice and covered in bearskin throws, and a skidoo or sled ride manned by a team of six Alaskin Huskies!
After cooling down we decided to warm things up with some coffee, tea and delicious locally caught salmon. We hit a wonderful old-school café, Café Engel, in the heart of the old town and enjoyed salmon Caesar salads. The fresh fish did NOT disappoint.
For sure, Oslo and Stockholm get more press but Helsinki has a peculiar and imaginative energy. We toured the Old City with its “must-wear-flats” cobblestone streets. We then strolled through Hakameimi Market Hall and the outdoor Old Market on the waterfront, finding Shari’s fuzzy mittens, as well as a number of other small gifts for the family – reindeer cheese spread, anyone?
At the end of the day, we walked along the tree-lined Esplanade, where elegant fashion brands like Marimekko and well-known Scandinavian design houses hold court. I left Shari here, as she had to head back earlier. She had dinner that night in a modern Finnish restaurant on the Esplanade, called Kappeli. The food was sophisticated, light and delicious – a warm carrot-yogurt soup, locally caught seared zander fish with rosti potatoes and brown bread.
Kappeli – Etelaesplanadi 1, Helsinki, Finland, +358 10 7663880
Day 8 and 9: ST. PETERSBURG, RUSSIA
At this point in the trip I was alone (Shari was 3 months pregnant plus she had to work—I understood and truly appreciated the time alone). You learn a lot about yourself when you travel solo. Anyway, Russia! So many places to go and see. Here are my highlights:
State Hermitage Museum: The Impressionist paintings were breathtaking, many from Western European collections confiscated by the Russians during WWII.
Where to Eat Lunch:
I wanted to have a caviar lunch with all the trimmings and the decadently beautiful Tsar Restaurant was the perfect spot (beware—it’s pricy!).
Watching the Bridges Open:
A St. Petersburg tradition is to watch the incredible Neva bridges part to let boats through. I went with my guide, Oxsana, at 1:30 in the morning and found locals huddled in blankets with wine enjoying the spectacle. We went to The Palace Bridge, the central bridge near the Hermitage, but there are another 12 bridges across the Neva River that go up in summertime.
A Must: At the Ballet
St. Petersburg is home to two renowned ballet companies, the Bolshoi Ballet and the Kirov Ballet (now known as the Mariinsky Ballet). It’s unquestionable to leave Russia without having seen one of them. I was lucky to catch Swan Lake (and cried almost the whole time, it was so emotional). I dressed in evening dress (very important here) and ventured out solo for one of the most amazing experiences of my life.
In front of the Mariinsky TheaterWhere to Eat Dinner:
At night, I wanted a trendy restaurant with a fun scene so I chose 22.13. You can even have a late dinner after the show then hang out after to get a taste of the city’s nightlife scene (open till 3 am). If you want to have a nightcap after the show, Dozari Bar, installed in a boat docked by one of the Neva’s bridges, is a best bet and a short taxi away.
Day 10: TALLINN, ESTONIA
This is a beautiful city with lots to see and fun shopping. Old Town is one of the county’s oldest villages with a medieval feeling that makes you feel like you are in a scene from a movie. While it rained the day I was there, I still got to check out everything but the big highlight was my lunch.
Where to Eat:
Olde Hansa, in the center of Old Town, is a must. This medieval restaurant (and shop) takes you on a journey to Tallinn’s Golden Age. The restaurant is lit by candles and as you walk in, the servers (dressed in costume) tell you that there is no electricity (obviously) and that a “Monk’s Bride” schnapps comes with your meal. Super fun!
Day 11: AT SEA
Day 12: COPENHAGEN, DENMARK
I had one full day in Copenhagen, getting there early in the morning and having until midnight so there was tons of time to explore. I tried to get into NOMA, the most famous restaurant in the world right now but couldn’t … they are booked for months. If you’re going to be here in the future and want to splurge book this way in advance. Here is my shortlist of must- sees.
Tivoli Gardens
Tivoli GardensThe second oldest amusement park in the world really delivered. It felt like Disney World for adults – vintage rides & games, delicious food representing different parts of the world, and a garden that will take your breath away.
Tivoli GardensChristiania
Christiania is the original “commune” and considers itself autonomous and is certainly different from the rest of Copenhagen. It’s a community of about 900 residents and although they welcome visitors, there are no hotels or accommodations for non-residents. Picture taking is not allowed (unless you ask permission) and it is “hippie” in every sense of the word with much to marvel at. The homes are all unique and the personality of the small “village” is fascinating. The vibe is a happy one with great shopping and terrific food. It’s a place to wander around for a couple hours, a beautiful, friendly place and one that I will never forget.
Days 13 and 14: AT SEA
On the shipDay 15: Arrive back in Southampton, England (sigh!)
I had the time of my life and my voyage transformed me in so many ways. I read a ton of books that helped me to move forward and manage issues that were weighing me down. I could cruise the world for the rest of my life or do what I’m doing now – dreaming about my next adventure.
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XO
Jill
@jillmartin