Charm Makes a Comeback

Rhett Butler was not exactly being cynical when he made up his mind in Gone With the Wind to leave Atlanta.  “I’m going back to Charleston, back where I belong,” he said.  “I want peace. I want to see if somewhere there isn’t something left in life of charm and grace.”

Seventy seven years later, his keen appreciation of the second largest city in South Carolina holds true. Beautiful and historic Charleston has been cited as the number two city in America to visit.  What South Carolina lacks in stature (the 40^th state in terms of size), it sure makes up in charm and grace with Charleston, founded upon a strong sense of hospitality.  Why the former mayor once said, “When it comes to hospitality, we take second place to no one.”  As the oldest city in the state, history buffs will love it here too since there’s a wonderful sense of being whisked away to colonial days.  One of the best preserved cities in the U.S., there are 73 pre-Revolutionary War buildings and countless 19^th century structures, many still fully functioning.  A majority of these are the homes of local residents though I am not sure if “home” is the optimum word to describe them.  Perhaps the term “mansion” is more fitting.  Considering that hurricanes (including Hugo which caused billions in damage), numerous tornadoes, a tremendous earthquake and part of the Civil War took place here, it’s a miracle these buildings are still standing.  True it does seem peaceful to a visitor but for my mind its character is the star attraction.

Filled with cobblestone streets and horse-drawn carriages, you’ll know you are somewhere special from the moment you step foot on Charleston soil.  I recommend parking your car and hopping in a horse-drawn carriage where one of the proud locals will introduce you to the impressive history and traditions.  Most likely your car will remain at your hotel for the weekend, as nearly everything is either within walking distance or a short cab ride away. Touring the original streets shaded by Spanish moss draped over almost every tree is a great way to get oriented while stepping back in time.  You can make mental notes of particular streets or mansions that stand out then casually walk back to them to spend more time.

As surprising is it may sound, the restaurants in Charleston can absolutely hold a candle to those found in larger cities like Chicago and New York.  That said, having worked up your appetite on your carriage ride, head straight for the Hominy Grill to have some authentic low country cooking which is indigenous to the coastal region of Charleston.  She crab soup and fried green tomatoes are musts, followed by some shrimp and grits, a side of cornbread, and some sweet tea to wash it all down.   After some “good ol Southern cooking,” take a nice, long walk.  Start out toward the Battery (White Point Gardens) located at the southernmost point of the Charleston peninsula, where the Cooper and Ashley Rivers empty into the Atlantic Ocean.  It was originally opened as a public park in 1837 then later used during the Civil War to protect against the encroaching union troops.  The park is made up of drooping oak trees, lush green grass, and even some authentic Civil War cannons lining its edges.  It is also an off-leash park in case you do bring your dog with you .  In fact, Charleston is an extremely dog-friendly city, with an abundance of off- leash parks, sidewalks lined with water dishes and many of hotels even offering dog walking services.  Walk all along the seawall and really take in the laid-back Charleston way of life.

On your way back to your hotel, join the French Quarter Art Walk, held seasonally on the first Fridays of March, May, October, and December.  The French Quarter is located within the original “walled city of Charleston.”  There are plenty of wineries offering wine by the glass, so grab one and stroll the streets and alleys lined with gas lanterns to witness the works of over 500 artists in a variety of styles from traditional to contemporary and a multitude of prices from affordable to extravagant.

After an activity-filled first day, treat yourself to a wonderful dinner.  The options are endless, and finding the perfect restaurant for a memorable dining experience won’t be too hard.  Please take special note, as dining is quite the attraction in Charleston, that reservations are booked months in advance.  Research a handful of restaurants that interest you and try to make your reservations at least one month out.

Now that you have a feel for the history of the city, plan on spending the first part of your second day shopping.  Shopping in Charleston is an activity in itself and King Street the major street.  To help you tackle this shopping mecca, the avenue can be broken into three areas.  Lower King (from Broad to Market) is where you will find a mix of antique stores, Middle King (from Market To Calhoun) is where you will come across the traditional national retailers like Saks Fifth Avenue and Banana Republic, and Upper King (from Calhoun to Cannon) is where the trendy, alternative, indie retailers are situated.  If you are in the market for home improvement, Upper King is where you’ll find the best interior design stores.

If you aren’t “shopped out” yet, stroll through the Old City Market sprawled across four buildings stretching from Meeting Street to East Bay Street.  Hundreds of vendors line up to sell almost everything imaginable and while it has a flea market feel there are some great finds.  Among them are the famous Charleston sweetgrass baskets, paintings, rugs, dolls, local candies and sweets, jewelry, and souvenirs.  Use your negotiating skills, especially on the sweetgrass baskets.  The art of sweetgrass basket making dates back to the antebellum days when slaves were shipped to Charleston from western Africa. The slaves brought their basket-weaving skills with them and passed them down from generation to generation.  These baskets are one of the oldest African crafts found in the U.S., and a few are actually on exhibit at the Smithsonian.  Originally used in farming, today these ornate baskets are often purely decorative pieces, and can fetch extremely high prices.  As they can take anywhere from 12 hours to a number of months to make, it’s strongly recommended to negotiate the price down prior to purchasing.  Prices generally start at around $65.

If the beach is more your scene, Charleston has some of the best and there are some that might even say the best in the United States.  There are more than 280 miles of white sand along the South Carolina coast, and three of the most desirable are within a 25 mile drive of Charleston.  Towards the west is Folly Beach which is definitely more touristy but still a lot of fun to visit.  If, though, like Rhett, you are seeking tranquility, head to either the Isle of Palms or Kiawah Island.  Kiawah Island is the furthest away but by far it is the most unspoiled.   Regardless of which beach you choose, be sure to get an early start as parking is limited after noon.  Also, it’s a good idea to pack a cooler filled with plenty of cold beverages and snacks, as restaurants and snack shops are few and far between.