Charlevoix, Québec

Charming Charlevoix

The Charlevoix region in the province of Québec (Canada) is a 6,000 square kilometer protected UNESCO World Bisophere Reserve, rich in forests, streams, and wildlife. It’s also flanked on the north shore by the mighty St. Lawrence River, portions of which are designated as a marine conservation area, making it one of the best places in North America for whale watching.

Fresh and salt water mix where the Saguenay and St. Lawrence Rivers meet, making it a perfect playground for several different species of migratory whales, including belugas, minkes, humpbacks, fin whale, and the mighty blue whale. The opportune time of year for catching glimpses is May to October, and there are many local operators providing everything from boat cruises and zodiacs, to kayaking and even snorkeling for those so inclined. The area also has seals, sea birds, caribou, wolves, and many other animals unique to this region.

Pioneers of Tourism

In 1864, Hotel Tadoussac opened its doors, marking the beginning of over a century of providing memorable vacation experiences. Today its whitewashed walls, red roof, and maritime colors still make it a must for visitors to the area, and the perfect base for whale watching excursions. The nearby Tadoussac Golf Club, founded in 1902, is one of the oldest golf courses in Québec and is renowned for its beautiful scenery with views overlooking the St. Lawrence. The property was also the location for the filming of the quirky Hotel New Hampshire movie.

Tourists have been flocking to Charlevoix for centuries, and in fact it is noted as being the first destination to have welcomed international overnight guests in Canada. The community of La Malbaie was known as the first resort area the country, and early in the 20th century a 250-room resort hotel was built in Pointe-au-Pic. Today Charlevoix still attracts numerous visitors year round who seek to experience all that is unique to the area, such as agrotourism, the arts, culture, outdoor adventure and scenic driving and cycling. The region also offers a host of unique attractions deep in the very heart of the Canadian Shield, the oldest landform on earth formed by a meteorite 350 million years ago.

Regional Culture and Cuisine

Music and dance are everywhere in Charlevoix, more particularly in the Saint-Irenee region at the historical property known as “Domaine Forget”. Charlevoix also has several museums referencing the natural and economic history of the region, the customs of the local population and maritime history. A visit to the Pointe-Noire interpretation and observation center at the Saguenay–St. Lawrence Marine Park is the perfect way to learn more about sea mammals and ocean currents.

The artistic village of Baie Saint-Paul is home to many painters, poets, writers, and musicians all inspired by the natural beauty. A driving route called Painter’s Trail points out galleries and studios throughout the region. While in town be sure to check out Le Saint Pub for local fare and a sampler of the local brews. Baie-Saint-Paul was also a favorite of Canada’s famous Group of Seven painters and the birthplace of the celebrated Cirque du Soleil.

Isle aux Coudres is a tiny island in the St. Lawrence River known for its stone windmills, historic buildings and coastline view best experienced by bicycle along the 26 km road that circles the island. It’s only a short 20 minute ferry ride from mainland Saint-Joseph-de-la-Rive, and definitely worth a visit. Be sure to stop at one of the apple picking farms and taste the local apple ciders.

The Saguenay River Valley was carved out by glaciers during the last ice age and created the Saguenay Fjord, which is the only such natural formation on the east coast of North America. It’s now a location for rock climbing enthusiasts that rivals the Rockies, some say. Le Genévrier is an outdoor family center that boasts a lighted ice ring and skating rink, inner-tube slides and 15 km of cross-country trails with an additional 5 km for snowshoeing.

The Charlevoix Flavor Trail is a culinary circuit that includes several specialty producers offering product samplings, as well as various accommodations and dining options where local products are available. Specialties includes foie gras, poultry, emu, lamb, and of course the world renowned selection of Québec cheeses. Farmers, chefs, and restaurant owners all work together to bring you the most extensive network of local fare. Many farms offer their products to sample and purchase on site and the chefs combine these local products to create delicacies that are only available in the area’s restaurants.

Luxurious Lodging

For those seeking the most luxurious experience, the Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu is nestled majestically between the sea and the mountains and is a vision of historical splendor. The resort offers nearby downhill and cross-country skiing, a legendary casino, spa, and top-notch accommodation. The summer season is a hot spot for golf enthusiasts seeking to hone their skills on a meticulously designed course by British architect Herbert Strong that was christened back in 1925 by U.S. President William H. Taft.

The original hotel was built in 1899 and featured 250 luxurious rooms atop the cliff of Pointe-au-Pic, overlooking the majestic St. Lawrence River in the heart of Charlevoix. Fire leveled it in 1928 but Canadian architect John Archibald redesigned the current property in the style of a French castle and it reopened the following year. Fairmont officially took over operations in 1999 and continued the grandeur that today makes it a world class luxury resort in Quebec.

Massive Le Massif

The famous Le Massif de Charlevoix is a mountain and ski resort that boasts the highest vertical drop east of the Canadian Rockies. It’s a Canadian tourism and recreation mecca comprised of three distinct areas, the Mountain, the Train and the Farm. The area around Le Massif is currently undergoing a multi-million dollar redevelopment, with portions already completed and operational this fall. When complete it will offer a full range of experiences in tourism by way of a touring train and a range of accommodation options at the Mountain, along with a 150-room hotel complex at the Farm in Baie-Saint-Paul.

Daniel Gauthier, one of the Cirque visionaries and Chairman of the Board of Groupe Le Massif, long dreamed of reviving a touristic rail route that ran between Quebec City and La Malbaie. In April 2009, Groupe Le Massif acquired Chemin de Fer de Charlevoix, the section of railroad track between Québec City and Clermont. A major line rehabilitation project was undertaken representing a 20 million dollar investment and this past September a 1950’s era touring train linking the 140 km stretch between Quebec City and La Malbaie re-opened again. There was a trial run of roundtrip excursions which just ended on October 23 with daily departures and overnight packages beginning again in February. For same day return passengers, a hearty breakfast is served on the morning leg and after an exciting day out on the trails, cocktails are paired with local delicacies on the return. The next step is to incorporate a daily rail shuttle connecting the town of Baie-Saint-Paul with the Mountain at Petite-Rivière-Saint-François and this is slated to begin early next year which should make it a pleasure to traverse the 20 km between the two.

Starting late December at the Mountain, a 7.5 km sled run specially designed for rodeling on a natural snow base will begin operations. Rodeling is a form of tobogganing that uses a long narrow sled without runners that curves upward in front. There will be two options offered – the classic 90 minutes which includes the grooming machine shuttle to the rodeling departure point on Mont à Liguori or a 2½ hour authentic plan featuring a guided snowshoe tour to the trailhead that leads down to the Massif Express boarding area. Le Massif offers a significant trail network for skiers and snowboarders as well as a 10 km luge trail that transforms into a downhill bike trail in summer. Guests can get around the resort area by snowshoe, dogsled or horse-drawn sleigh. When it’s time to relax, the onsite spa offers a menu of original treatments, from Nordic to Scandinavian, therapeutic to relaxation.

Nestled on farmland near the heart of downtown Baie-Saint-Paul, the Farm is designed to espouse the site’s agricultural identity and presents itself as a crossroads of this extraordinary melting pot of culture and gastronomy. A total of 56 million dollars will be invested towards the development of a 150-room hotel complex that fans out into five pavilions, and includes a multifunctional venue, a spa, a train station, a public square and a local farmers market. The project will be completed in stages, with the hotel scheduled to officially open by December 2011, just in time for the holidays and outdoor winter adventure season. The entire project is expected to be completed by 2014.

There are approximately 30,000 people that call this fabulous region home, and Highway 138 out of Québec City is a natural starting point for visitors planning to make the 90-minute trek east. This most definitely is a four season destination and worth a visit anytime of the year. Although there are numerous dining and accommodation options available, it’s still best to book in advance. Visit Charlevoix and have a whale of a good time!