Chez Dominique
A two star Michelin rating is a big deal in any country but in Finland it’s even bigger. It’s understandable that thoughts run toward France and the UK as far as award-winning cuisine, but who knew that Finland had ante-d up? I found out when I stepped foot into Chez Dominique that memorable night that Finland has raised the bar as far as 5 star dining. If you are a serious foodie it’s time you worshipped at the shrine of Chef Hans Valimaki at Chez Dominique. Expectations run high here as a result of the stature and the feeling of …”we’re in your hands, surprise us” easily takes over.
We find our grande dame on an unassuming street near the Esplanadi and realize as we enter that Chez Dominique has the DNA to hang with the rest of the establishments populating the Michelin list. An austere foyer lends an air of a temple and the ultramodern entrance sets up the serene dining room, defined by white paneled walls and a tall Plexiglas service station, installed dead-center to watch the action. At the far corner of the room hangs a startling graphic of irregular black lines on a white ground – a clue to the artistic accomplishment in the plating. Chef Hans’ dishes often resemble abstract paintings and curious eyes will wander over each canvas of ingredients marveling at the compositions.
The restaurant is privileged to be on several lists as one of the 50 best in the world and I can’t argue with that. We chose the 6 course surprise menu as Chris, our accomplished and amiable Maitre d’ advised. The amuse bouche arrived looking futuristic. Three subtle immersions populated a trinity dish joined by toasted flatbread in the shape of a snake and decorated with edible flowers and (real) Philly cream cheese. Turns out it’s just asparagus in 3 parts – terrine, soup and ice cream (all with green asparagus). Could Chef Hans have hit on a way to get kids to eat green veggies? Maybe! A bag of assorted slivered vegetable chips delicately lands in front of us – beet, potato, onion and artichoke – in a sealed bag with dips to boot, cool! A Baltic herring nigiri with rice, seaweed and a horseradish “snow” jumps in our mouths and segues nicely to the Finnish new potato with a black truffle crumble and garlic mayonnaise. The tantalizing variety of tastes paired wonderfully with our cocktails.