With contributions by Victoria Markus
On a map it’s easy to see that Mexico is hugged by the Pacific Ocean and the warm waters of the Gulf where stunning beaches line the coastline. Coupled with a temperate climate and steady sunshine, tourists and vacationers alike flock to those sandy shores. But the true spirit of Mexico lies inland, where great civilizations emerged and thrived for thousands of years. Mexico is more than just a beach and the southernmost state of Chiapas is a convincingly strong advocator of this. 
After a short flight from Mexico City, you’ll find that treasures and wonders abound here. The Mayans inhabited this land in 600 B.C. and vestiges of their civilization are on display in the northern regions of Chiapas. This pre-Hispanic heritage is preserved by local indigenous groups and the colonial ambience of the towns and cities is in the foreground of a region with a vast diversity of flora and fauna. The people are also warm and friendly, always extending a helping hand whenever it’s needed to make one’s trip as comfortable as possible. This, along with the combination of ancient ruins and a flourishing modern-day society, makes Chiapas a tourist friendly destination.
Located in the central highlands of the region is the city of San Cristobal de las Casas, also known by its native Tsotsil name of Jovel, and nestled between sloping hillsides and lush terrain. This historical city of red tile roofs, patios decorated with flowers and iron wrought balconies is the cultural capital of Chiapas. Many of the buildings and cathedrals are an amalgamation of Baroque, Neoclassic, Moorish, and Mexican styles. Looking down any street you’ll discover a kaleidoscope of bright colors – blues, yellows, pinks and reds. The city center is its main plaza, bustling with people and surrounded by important historical buildings and fine residences accented with luscious gardens.
One of the sights in the city is the Iglesia Santo Domingo de San Cristobal. A towering presence with its façade of gilded panels, it’s one of the most elaborately decorated churches in Mexico. The grounds of the church are home to a large handicrafts market where vibrant textiles and authentic Mexican goods can be found. Another attraction is the Maya Medicine Museum, where you can not only learn about the medicinal rituals of the indigenous peoples but you can also participate in a healing ceremony with genuine healers ready to treat whatever ailment a patient may have. The city is safe and walkable so stroll around and enjoy the picturesque environment – lovely buildings, cozy cafés and restaurants and busy public squares.
Have lunch at Maria Chamula, a restaurant where proprietor Jorge Aguilar cures their meats, creates their own cheeses and serves wonderful soups. Traditional Chiapan meals include chipilin, a strongly flavored herb that is popular in southern Mexican cuisine. Heavy dishes are often washed down with pozol, a local drink made from fermented corn dough. The dining room is filled with religious artifacts and on special days a witch doctor is on site to provide spiritual cleansing and blessings to customers. After a hearty meal and blessings for good health, you’ll be ready to explore some more.
After a day in this culturally rich city, a charming evening can be spent at Tierra y Cielo in downtown San Cristobal, a hotel and restaurant that rivals three-star establishments in New York City and is situated in the home of the proprietor’s grandmother. Gaby Trejo de Zepeda has taken her grandmother’s charming abode and transformed it into an intimate inn offering twelve quaint rooms with exposed ceiling beams and colorful throw pillows on every bed. I guess you might say that Tierra y Cielo puts taking a trip to grandma’s on a whole different level. Her lovely restaurant effortlessly combines modern with traditional serving contemporary cuisine inspired by her family’s ancestral roots. Cooking classes taught by her brother, Chef Marty Zepeda, are available as well as having him accompany you to the food market to choose ingredients. It’s a hands-on way to get to know the region’s products and flavors and also to experience the adventure of gastronomy through a chef’s eyes. After dinner, night owls craving a break from culture can head over to Calle La Revolucion where there are numerous bars with live music with more on Calle Insurgents along with jazz club Dada. Chiapas’s nightlife brims with spirited music along with lots of spirits such as pumbo, a drink made with vodka, pineapple, club soda and sugar syrup.
For off-the-beaten path adventure, it’s worth the two to four hour drive outside the city to visit the Chiapas Mayan sites of Palenque, Tonina and Bonampak. The route offers amazing vistas and landscapes straight out of an Impressionist painting. Tonina features the Casa de Piedra (house of stone) and the Acropolis, a ceremonial site on a hillside which flourished between 600 and 900 C.E. (i.e. current era) and consisting of a series of seven platforms with various temples and other areas marked by steles. Palenque is a World Heritage site that exhibits some of the finest Mayan architecture, sculpture, and stucco-reliefs. If you’re a nature lover, Laguna Miramar should be on your checklist as it’s one of the most beautiful lakes in the Lacandon Jungle. Close to a thousand feet deep, it sustains diverse aquatic life and is a divine swimming spot for weary travelers who’ve hiked there.
The Mayan calendar may end in December 2012 but its cultural significance and impact is timeless. Mexico is a celebration of the Mayan World which today even includes the wonderful lifestyle of the natives. So while Mexico’s coastlines can provide you with a seaside vacation you could easily enjoy elsewhere, traveling inland can reap some unmatched cultural riches that underscore the bona fide radiance of the country.
*If exploring on your own seems adventurous, it’s simple to hire a guide to direct you to the best establishments while recounting the history and culture of Chiapas. Patrick Murphy Ruiz and Siddhartha Alvaréz are excellent choices for both touring San Cristobal and exploring the Mayan ruins. They will pick you up and assist you in whatever function or site you chose to see.
The international dialing code for Mexico is 52.
Where to Stay:
Holiday Inn San Cristobal– stucco walls, colonial architecture and beautiful courtyards greet you at this historic Holiday Inn in San Cristobal. Calle 1 de Marzo : 15 Zona Centro, 967-6780045, http://www.holidayinn.com/hotels/us/en/sn-cristobal-de-las-casas/
Casa Felipe Flores– with just five rooms, this gracious and comfortable Bed and Breakfast has all the charm you’d expect from a casa colonial in Mexico where discrete service is a privilege. Calle Dr. Felipe Flores 36, San Cristobal, 967-6783996, http://www.felipeflores.com/
Tierra y Cielo– this twelve room inn is as quaint as it is enticing, with an accessible location downtown and rooms that will make you want to stay longer. Av. Benito Juárez No.1, Centro Histórico, San Cristobal, 967–6781053, www.tierraycielo.com.mx
Where to Eat:
Tierra y Cielo- the cuisine is fresh and delectable, prepared with care, and made from local ingredients that speak to the true nature of Chiapas. Av. Benito Juárez No.1, Centro Histórico, San Cristobal, 967-6781053, www.tierraycielo.com.mx
Restaurante Maria Chamula– With great farm-to-table food, this eatery will satisfy any appetite for good food, and has a museum-like ambience. Plaza 31 de Marzo, #1 altos colonia centro, San Cristobal, 967-63-16002, jorge_genesis@yahoo.com.mx
The Guides to Hire:
Siddhartha Alvaréz- 961-61 211-30/61 366 71, www.tourchiapas.com
Patrick Murphy Ruiz- 967-706-2798, patmuruiz@hotmail.com