Christchurch New Zealand Rising from the Ashes

If you’re traveling to New Zealand’s South Island, chances are you’ll be passing through Christchurch, its biggest town. Well-known for its English heritage and beautiful gardens, the city of around 350,000 locals was a favorite tourist destination until February 22, 2011, at 12.51 pm local time when a 6.3 magnitude earthquake struck, killing 185 people, and turning the central district into ash and rubble.

Gone are the Anglican cathedral (built between 1864 and 1904), historical buildings surrounding Cathedral Square and entire residential suburbs along the Avon River. The once buzzing Arts Centre is still under construction and the Christchurch Art Gallery only re-opened in late 2015, but despite it all, the town between the Canterbury Plains and the Pacific Ocean is worth a lot more time than a quick overnighter before hopping on a plane to another place.

The best place to start exploring Christchurch, and to find out why it’s called the Garden City, is its tranquil inner-city sanctuary, the Botanic Gardens. Renowned for its beautiful trees, they date back to the early 1860s when the first plantings were made. Admire these majestic, century-old trees and explore the wide variety of displays including rhododendron and shrub borders, a formal rose garden (best visited in early December), a tropical plant conservatory, fern and cacti houses and a native plant collection.

When exiting the gardens on Rolleston Ave, have a quick stop at the Canterbury Museum, which holds collections covering a wide range of topics including Canterbury’s first people – the Mäori Moa hunters, European settlement, Arts of Asia, the exploration of Antarctica, New Zealand birds, and fossils. Don’t forget to rub the giant green pounamu (jade) stone for good luck while there!

Make your way to the Arts Centre, the neo-gothic former University of Canterbury buildings, which is still under construction, but partially opened and once again a hub for arts, crafts, and entertainment. Events like the annual World Buskers Festival have returned to the site and final reconstruction of the 23 heritage buildings is expected by 2019.

Only a few feet further, there is no missing Christchurch Art Gallery Te Puna o Waiwhetu, commonly known as the Christchurch Art Gallery, a glass and metal extravaganza. The largest art institution in the South Island and home to one of New Zealand’s most important public art collections, the Christchurch Art Gallery also held the role of the Civil Defence headquarters following the earthquake. The reopening on December 19, 2015, was an emotional one recalls Jenny Harper, its director. “At ten to ten the staff and volunteers, along with their families, stood on the stairs, as people started to gather outside. We clapped as they came in, and they started to clap back. I don’t think I’ve ever had so many random hugs.”

Head down the Worcester Boulevard side of the gallery to marvel at Martin Creed’s light-work Everything is Going to be Alright (best experienced at night), before crossing the Avon River where you might spot punters in traditional Edwardian attire propelling handcrafted flat-bottomed boats slowly along the water. Punting on the Avon is an iconic tourist activity here that takes you on a 30min return trip through the heart of the city.

Also, reminiscent of old England and times gone by is the Christchurch tramway which makes its way past 17 stops including the Canterbury Museum, Hagley Park, Victoria Square and New Regent Street. A day-long ticket allows you to get on and off as often as you like and the Tramway Restaurant has a scheduled daily departure at 7pm from Cathedral Junction.

The tramway passes the ruins of Cathedral Square and the remains of the formerly proud standing cathedral – now a broken monument to the aspirations and beliefs of the first British settlers of Canterbury. It’s a miracle that nobody perished inside the church or was standing on the observation deck on that fateful early Tuesday afternoon. Much discussion surrounds its future as the spire itself was destroyed and only the lower part of the bell tower base was left standing with all thirteen tower bells buried in debris. Proposals for the site include full demolition and erection of a new building, rebuilding the cathedral based upon the original plans and with the original stones, or keeping in its current state as a memorial.

Nothing has been approved yet and a transitional cathedral continues to be the place of worship. Christchurch’s mayor Liane Dalziel has said: “Christchurch is reinventing itself … becoming a city that’s more innovative, more creative, and more focused on sustainability”. This definitely holds true for the structure named the Cardboard Cathedral. Designed by architect Shigeru Ban and seating around 700 people, the church is an unusual sight and features 86 cardboard tubes of 1,100 lb each atop 20 ft. long containers.

For a good nights’ sleep, book yourself into the Heritage Hotel in central Christchurch.  Situated in the 1913 landmark Old Government Building at Cathedral Square, the stunning Italianate Palazzo style building has a vital place in the architectural heritage of the city. With a fascinating history, the hotel is a perfect example of a sensitive approach to historic building conservation and has prevailed to become of monumental significance to the town’s post-quake cityscape.

Outside the city center, there are plenty of attractions if you’re mobile and have a bit more time. New Brighton invites with its pier and swimming beaches, while surfers’ favorite Sumner has a great laid-back feel to it and boasts a number of small owner operated food and art stores.  A visit to the recently opened Christchurch Adventure Park, located in the Port Hills, allows for expansive views from the chairlift or walking tracks, and if you like mountain-biking, this is also your place to be. At Willowbank Wildlife Reserve you’re guaranteed to see New Zealand’s iconic flightless bird in the Kiwi House and Orana Park is New Zealand’s only open range zoo; giraffes, lions, and cheetahs are all there.

Close to Christchurch Airport is the International Antarctic Centre with real snow and ice, little blue penguins and a ride in a Hagglund – if you really must cut your visit short.