Coastal Distancing At Inn by the Sea in Maine’s Shoulder Season

I’m relaxing in a roomy Adirondack chair on the expansive lawn of Inn by the Sea in Cape Elizabeth on coastal Maine. A few feet away is a boardwalk to the sandy crescent beach that protects the inn from an oft-wild Atlantic. It’s early evening, and a family beside me is melting smores in the firepit. Above, the moon begins a partial eclipse, glowing in golden hues to match the fire. It’s a dreamy scene, romantic, unspoiled, beauty au natural—and that’s what this part of Maine and the inn are all about.

“If I could give it five stars,” says Doris Katz, a visitor I meet from Long Island, “I’d give it ten.” Doris says it’s about her eighth visit to Inn by the Sea.  She and her husband have in tow their beautiful Siberian Husky, who apparently finds the surroundings just as enticing. Dogs are provided cozy LL Bean blankets upon check-in; treats abound; there are doggie massages, and canines are permitted to eat alongside owners in a lounge area of the inn. It’s like a home away from home for guests—except with spectacular coastal vistas and the unspoiled beauty for which Maine is so well-known.

Coastal Distancing

Inn by the Sea is situated about five miles south of Portland in southern Maine, in an area noted for scenic vistas with craggy shores and famous lighthouses, including one featured in Edward Hopper’s timeless “Lighthouse Hill” painting. On my bucket list for over a decade, the Inn by the Sea can get very busy in summers, and I never seemed to plan far enough in advance. So, I hit the coastal area in shoulder season instead, decidedly pleased that I did so. There’s a serenity to the coast in off-season that adds to its beauty, when I can feel that it’s just me and the wild sea having a meeting of minds.

At Inn by the Sea, I can look out over that sea from the oversized windows in one of 61 luxury rooms and suites, set on five acres of lawn and gardens, with forested paths leading alongside tidal pools to Crescent Beach. Accommodations have private entrances, so guests don’t need to traverse the lobby if they prefer coastal distancing. Wandering the grounds, guests might see piping plovers, an endangered shorebird that nests in nearby sand dunes. New England cottontails leave bunny tracks in the last of spring snows. Come summer, about a dozen goats will make their appearances on the property, enlisted as “scapegoats” to help root out invasive Japanese knotweed, a bamboo that overwhelms the native growth that’s vital food and habitat for local wildlife.

Iconic Lighthouses

It’s the beauty of the Maine coastline, however, that most attracts me. So I do what you do when in Maine—take a long, winding drive along the coast, heading north in search of scenic spots and lighthouses. They’re both easy enough to find. I visit lighthouses standing sentinel over waves that crash on jagged, rocky outcrops, spraying sea foam up into the cool blue air. Somewhere out there are shipwrecks of old, their crews perhaps missing the lighthouse guiding beams on foggy New England days. Luckily, I have a clear day, perfect for taking Instagram-worthy photos to match Hopper’s scenes.

Fort Williams Park in Cape Elizabeth is home to the most iconic lighthouse, the Portland Head Light. Once a military installation, beginning in the late 1800s, the park’s 90 acres are now free to the public and open daily for walking the cliffside loop (leashed dogs permitted), exploring the rocky beach, kite flying, picnicking, or photographing the gorgeous scenery—including the lighthouse and “Keeper’s Quarters.” A museum and gift shop are open seasonally, beginning Memorial Day. It is a stunning spot.

Old Port District—Portland

From there, it’s a quick ride into the lovely seacoast city of Portland. The “Old Port” district is compact and easily walkable along cobblestone streets with interesting boutiques, art galleries, and craft breweries. There’s a working waterfront with lobster boats docked along the piers, and an intriguing foodie scene with enticing seafood, farm-to-table options, or just amazing mac ‘n cheese. I opt for J’s Oysters, a casual, waterfront restaurant/bar that can satisfy just about any seafood craving. (Due to its popularity, prepare for wait times outside.) Anthony Bourdain once said that if he lived in Portland, he would want to “live above J’s.” I make a requisite stop at the Holy Donut, where the donut selection made from fresh mashed Maine potatoes reads like an old-fashioned sweets-shop menu, with versions such as chocolate sea salt, maple, pomegranate, and toasted coconut. Inevitably the donuts sell out by noon.

Along the Portland piers are also options for exploring the coastline: harbor cruises, schooner sailing, kayak rentals, and even lobstering in season; put on a slicker and help bring up the lobster cages, choosing one for your meal.

It’s a 20-minuted drive to hit the vast LL Bean headquarters store and surrounding outlet options. Then it’s back to my Inn by the Sea sanctuary to schedule a Maine mud-and-algae massage at the spa before relaxing on the decks and doing a lot of nothing: reading a book fireside in my suite; going for a stroll to Crescent Beach; petting the inn’s foster dog (the inn regularly adopts out in partnership with a local shelter), or just staring out panoramic windows on to the willowy wilds of the Atlantic. Daydreaming can be an awfully busy pastime here.