Cobblers Cove, Barbados

I’d been to Barbados before, and counted it as one of my favorite Caribbean islands.  Now having recently been there again, I have to say that it’s not just one of my favorites; it’s my absolute favorite.  Credit of course has to go to the island itself—its warmth, its beauty, its people, its culture and its cuisine.  But perhaps even more credit has to go to the place I was lucky enough to call home.  They say that home is where the heart is, and I most certainly left mine at Cobblers Cove.

As one of only five Relais & Chateaux properties in all of the Caribbean, this garden filled paradise uniquely combines the essence of this luxury brand with the easygoing, friendly nature of Barbados.  While guests want for nothing, and the small resort boasts five-star amenities throughout, this is not where A-listers come to wear their diamonds on the beach.  Rather, it’s where those with a taste for the good life and a desire to truly escape come to do exactly that.  And also to mingle with tropical birds instead of name droppers.

The first thing I noticed upon arrival at the discrete pink entrance, after passing through its doors into the resplendent gardens, was the smell—an overwhelming aroma of sweet tropical flowers blooming on lush plants and shrubs, and where colorful birds were singing as if out of a Disney movie.  And as I was led into my one bedroom ocean suite, it was clear that I’d never have to leave the outdoors behind – a solid wall of shuttered doors faced the sea, open to the elements, which brought the paradise outside into my Caribbean-meets-English country cottage living room.

Luckily for other guests as well, there are no “bad” rooms at Cobblers Cove.  An all-suite boutique property, the one and two bedroom accommodations range from 560 to over 1,400 square feet and come with every possible amenity, fully stocked wet bars and private terraces with oh-so-comfortable lounge chairs—the perfect spot to sit with a rum punch and do nothing at all. Two over the top suites—the Colleton and the Camelot—offer extreme space and luxury, the Colleton with over 1,780 square feet of seclusion and romantic elegance and the Camelot with a private rooftop terrace and plunge pool.

When you finally pry yourself away from your personal oasis, the heated pool overlooking the ocean and the warm, tranquil waters of the sea await.  It was here, on that first afternoon, that I truly eased into the life of luxury and lavish nothingness.  Moving back and forth between the almost secluded beach (even when full, the resort still seems quiet and private) and the swimming pool (conveniently located next to the bar with its potent punch), I had already come to the conclusion that Barbados and Cobblers Cove would forever be a favorite.

When you’ve had enough of swimming, and it’s time to satisfy another craving, you’ll find, as I did, that the cuisine is what truly puts this place in a league all its own.  Like all Relais & Chateaux properties, great emphasis is placed on food and wine.  It’s one of the things they take very seriously.  But here, in the cradle of the Caribbean, the island’s unique and delicious flavors are not ignored.  Executive Chef Michael Harrison is a native of Barbados who’s traveled the globe—from London to Kennebunkport, Maine and even to the Seychelles—cooking in some of the world’s finest establishments. Here he has returned home to bring Cobblers Cove diners the true tastes of his homeland, served haute yet simple and delectable.

Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served outdoors and oceanfront, where the colors and sights of the setting are matched by those of the dishes Harrison and his team create. Each day a fresh local fish (caught daily) is on the menu. Favorite dishes included barracuda, served blackened with sweet potato mash, spiced carrot puree, and a licorice cream; dressed snow crab and nori seaweed roll with sweet and sour cucumber, ruby watermelon, and avocado and lime puree; fresh Caribbean swordfish with pepper and heirloom tomatoes and green peas; and too many more to name.  Each dish was expertly paired with an excellent wine, and was as lively and fresh as the island from which most of its ingredients originated.  And while Barbados is known for its cuisine—being the only Zagat rated Caribbean island—it’s not uncommon to see the same guests returning night after night to enjoy Cobblers Cove’s offerings.  In the afternoons, a traditional English tea served poolside combines the island’s British charm with the hotel’s relaxed, easygoing elegance. (And if you’re feeling guilty about any overindulgence, private yoga, a state-of-the-art fitness center, and tennis are available for those who wish to work off the calories.)

One of the true highlights for me—and for any foodie staying at Cobblers Cove—was my morning spent with the chef himself, where market-to-table took on new meaning.  After a seaside buffet breakfast, I drove with Chef Michael to Bridgetown, the capital, where we embarked on a market tour, mingling with locals and smiling vendors, picking out produce, herbs, and spices that would be used to create dishes that day.  We stopped for tomatoes, mangoes, watermelons, greens, bundles of herbs (with humorous descriptions of their respective benefits) then drove to the local fish market, picking up a fresh-from-the sea mahi mahi.  On our way back, we stopped at a local rum bar (a mainstay of Bajan culture) and enjoyed a freshly cooked meal with a local Banks beer (Sundays for Bajans always include Souse, a local dish, and Chef Michael knows just the place to get it).  Back at the hotel, the chef gave me a personal cooking demonstration, effortlessly creating a blackened mahi mahi topped with watermelon and mango salsa, sautéed spinach, and pureed eddoes (like potatoes, but better).   It was insanely delicious, and that much better knowing where and from whom all the ingredients came.

Like all the locals in Barbados, the staff at Cobblers Cove is made up of some of the nicest, warmest people you’ll ever meet.  Always greeting me by name and inquiring with true concern how my stay was going, they were just one of the many reasons it was almost impossible to leave. And while leave I did, after only a few days, it was with a renewed sense of peace and well-being.   Now that I consider Cobblers Cove my second home, I can say that there is truly no place like it.