If you mention going to Colombia to almost anyone be prepared for a long pause and then a grimace. While the country has had a reputation for being dangerous in the past, it’s just that…in the past. With a beautiful countryside, cosmopolitan cities and first class accommodations, Colombia is now a more safe and viable option for a terrific vacation. Plus, we all know it has some of the best coffee in the world! So, intent on searching for that perfect blend of beans and the elusive Juan Valdes himself, I packed my bags.
I took off on Spirit Airlines’inaugural flight ( www.spiritair.com ) to Armenia in the coffee region, sitting directly in the Coffee Triangle in the Andean mountain chain. The flight marked the very first service to the city by an international carrier and Spirit is now running non-stop flights from Ft. Lauderdale, making access there a cinch. The cities comprising the triangle are Armenia, Manizales and Pereira. All three are unique and very different locations offering outdoor adventure, nature exploration and coffee sipping … perfect for someone interested in an off-the-beaten-track experience. Our agenda began with what else – a tour of a coffee plantation.
We headed to the Recuca Plantation (www.recuca.com) outside of Armenia for a behind-the-scenes tour. The plantation was beautiful with lush plantain trees and acres of leafy green coffee plants heavy with berries. Local workers were picking through the beans and the smell of freshly brewed coffee wafted from the hacienda on the premises. After a walk through the fields we got our first coffee making 101 lesson and came away with a new understanding of just what goes into that perfect cup. Two parts water, two parts coffee, three parts love. The people were so passionate about their brew, it almost seemed like a religious experience. A few cups of the high octane stuff later, our group was fired-up and ready to roll to our next destination, the Cocora Valley National Park.
With its temperate climate and almost daily rainfall, Cocora’s rolling hillside was dense with full grown Wax Palms, the national tree of Colombia and the tallest palm tree in the world. You can choose from a wide range of activities here including horseback riding, hiking, and mountain biking or simply chill out and breathe in the beautiful scenery at Juan B, the quaint little restaurant where you’ll feast on fresh trout with fried plantains.
The balance of our afternoon was spent browsing, haggling and buying local crafts in the charming town of Salento perched high in the mountains and a short stop on our return drive. The friendly townsfolk welcomed us as honored spectators to the annual parade to elect their next beauty queen, another near-religious experience. Colombia will use any excuse for another festival or parade, each one more colorful than the last, and these are opportunistic experiences for trying the many local dishes from arepas, a Colombian tortilla to tostones, a side dish of twice-fried plantains with chicharrones, fried pork rinds, a quintessential Latin dish. After a few days my feeding frenzy reached the boiling point and my stomach screamed, “nada mas!” Colombians love their food as did I … it was a match made in heaven.
While touring through the city of Pereira, probably my favorite of all, I was amazed to find a cosmopolitan vibe with nightlife that rivals any of the big cities in the country. As I danced the night away to the hot beats of salsa, merengue and their national music, Cumbia, the country of Colombia began to feel almost like home. When it ended not only was I more in love with the country but I also brought home the goods … bags and bags of fresh coffee each bought with a whimsical anecdote that made my family and friends nervous that I’d be back on the next flight back. It was easy to see that everyone was curious.
Whether it’s Cartagena, a historical treasure trove on the sea with Spanish Colonial architecture and tropical heat, Medellin, a metropolis of art and culture along with fantastic nightlife or my own favorite, the Coffee Triangle region, with the emphasis on nature and the outdoors, you can’t go wrong. It’s clean, safe and filled with some of the friendliest people on the planet. With little tourism in this region from outside of Colombia, you’ll definitely have an authentic experience. Just two million people live within the triangle compared to eight million in Bogotá. No big tour buses here just native Colombians out for a long holiday weekend. I was also pleasantly surprised at the variety of accommodations that are available, from larger hotels to smaller boutique options, all first rate. For a customized tour, turn to the British-owned company, Colombia 57 ( www.colombia57.com ) located directly in the city of Manizales. They can handle all your arrangements to ensure a pleasant trip.
Facts about the Colombia Coffee Triangle
The country code is +57 and the city code is (6).
Be sure to drink purified water only not from a tap.
While it’s perfectly safe the airport security in Armenia can be daunting. When departing from Armenia, be prepared to have your luggage searched top to bottom and allow extra time.
The temperature year round is relatively mild, although it can get cool in the winter months.
Where to Stay:
Hotel Pereira: The Hotel Pereira is located in the heart of the city of Pereira. It’s a four-star property, clean, safe and with a friendly staff. The rooms are spotless and the pulse of the city is at your fingertips. Just up the road are numerous restaurants and nightclubs.
Carrera 13, No. 15-73, Pereira, Colombia; Tel. +57 (6) 335-0770; www.hoteldepereira.com
Hotel Sazagua: This luxury boutique hotel is ideal for a peaceful retreat away from the city. Set among palm trees and tropical plants, the hotels also houses the Prana Spa for soothing treatments after a day of touring. Their Presidential Suite is large and comfy and won’t break the wallet! Km 7 Via Cerritos, Entrada 4, Urbanizacion Quimbayita, Pereira-Risaralda, Colombia; Tel: +57 (6) 337 9895;www.sazagua.com
Hacienda Bambusa: Ideally situated in Armenia, just 20 minutes from the airport, Hacienda Bambusa is a typical bamboo, colonial style house surrounded by cattle fields, plantain trees and coffee fields. Via El Caimo-Portugalito, Km. 9.3, Armenia-Quindio, Colombia; www.haciendabambusa.com
Hacienda Combia: Set in the rural mountain, this guesthouse/hotel will make you feel right at home. Small, but clean rooms, an outdoor restaurant and swimming pool, all set among coffee fields and fruit trees. Easy access to most attractions, Hacienda Combia is a perfect spot to get away from the hustle and bustle of the city. Calarca, Km. 4 via al Valle, Vereda La Bella, Quindio, Colombia; +57 (6) 746 8472;www.combia.com.com
Where to Eat:
El Solar: Located in downtown Armenia, this 8-year old restaurant offers live music, an open kitchen and friendly atmosphere where you’ll not only experience local cuisine, but find yourself dancing and singing with your neighbors at the next table.
Tel: +56 (6) 749 3990
La Ruana Bar and Restaurant: Traditional Colombia cuisine and a friendly vibe located in Pereira. Listen to hot local beats while you chow down on tostones and fresh fish. Avenida Cicunvalar No. 12-08, Pereira-Risaralda, Colombia; Tel: +57 (6) 325 0115 www.laruanapereira.com
Don Juaco Snacks: Indoor and outdoor dining with a warm, inviting atmosphere. Dine on traditional meals (including all things arepa) at very reasonable prices in the heart of Manizales. Tel: +57 (6) 8550610
What to Do:
Los Nevados: For active travelers, a trip to this national park located in the Central Andes Mountains is highly recommended. Nevada del Ruiz, also known by the indigenous name Kumunday, is the highest peak and the easiest to climb. The mountain is accessible from Manizales and well worth a visit. It’s a great day trip high above the clouds.
Zip Lining: Zip lining over the coffee fields is not only exhilarating but one of the best scenic experiences in the world! A multitude of spots offer zip lining. Colombia57 can easily arrange a thrilling ride over the lush landscape. www.colombia57.com
Botanical Gardens: A visit to El Mariposario (The Butterfly Vivarium) near the Botanical Garden in Cararca, close to Armenia, is unforgettable. The incredible butterfly-shaped insectarium shelters about 1200 species of butterflies native to Colombia including the famous Blue Morpho, which has a wingspan of between 3 and 8 inches. Ride the cable car there to get a birds-eye view into a comprehensive world of butterflies. www.calarca.net